New profile posts

hi everyone, just purchased a terrific little L1500 which i found out later is a grey market model. found your site and understand that i have nothing to worry about now. i have located filters for engine oil, air and fuel and have fitted all with no hassle. not sure about transmission oil and filter/screen changing. i have had a bit of a look through this site and i am having trouble finding something on it. also i would like to purchase weights for the front bar as i am running a slasher and i find the steering very light. apart from that is there anything else i should check? GREAT SITE by the way.

Thank you and please keep up the good work.

Thanks Vic. Which one is it as there seems to be two of them and I'm confused with the numbers.

Hi, I would like to add some lights to my L3400 so I can see my back blade. Any advice on how to do it and where to start?

B20 lacks power- when I bought it, last summer, unit has 962 hrs, meter was frozen, but suspected it may have more hours. I fixed the meter and it works now. Have only run a few hours since. Person selling to me had some injector work done, injectors were rebuilt, fuel system was checked out. In low gear it will bellow out black smoke and drop rpms when you push the hydro pedal, even on a slight inclinde. I live at nearly 7000' altitude. I have replaced all fluids and filters, but not fuel filter yet. Unit will not start without glow plugs unless warm. Any thoughts on items to check out.

Vic I heard in one of your videos that you use the Tech2000 oil from Walmart. Do you know which Transmission oil I would use for my B8200 gear in that brand? The prices seem really good.

Thanks dunk. Your tractor looks great with those tires.

I have posted the pictures of my 6100 with tyres as requested. Hope you like it. Duncan

If the tractor is a 4 wheel drive you use 80/90 weight gear oil in the front axle. If it is a 2 wheel drive tractor it has bearings in the hub that have to be repacked every 2-3 years. I had a 2 wheel L-1801 and repacked the bearings every 2 years. All that was required was a cotter pin and a new rear seal. I simply took the old seal in to the dealer and had him match it and it worked fine.

We all make the mistakes and that is part of learning our tractors and since it was not damaged you learned that gear oil does not work.

Yeah I want to retract that question based of stupidity.
I used gear oil in the tranny in my first 2 weeks own tractor ownership and had problems.
Not sure why I thought it would be fine this time.
I am several lites low in the transmission.
What other than a leak would cause me to lose fluid?

I am using gear oil in the rear axel.
You mentioned rear oil in the front...is this only for 4wd models?

Should I grease front bearings?
Is the procedure similar to that on a car?

I would not use 80/90 weight oil in the transmission as you have a front end loader and the oil is to thick to flow easily. The 80/90 is fine for your front axle but the transmission oil needs to thinner for the front end loader and the 3 point hitch to work properly. YOu can get the right oil at WalMart for a fairly cheaper price then using UDT and it is already properly rated for your tractor. You just have remember that you are living in a area that has extreme temperatures and the thinner oil is required for where you live.

I have a pail of 80W90 gear oil.
Can I use this in my transmission?

Did you figure the problem out?
Machine wasn't staying running.

I just bought a 1997 B2100HST with a 301 loader and midmount mower. I sold my B7100 which was a tough little mule. Any advice on maintenance on the 2100?
Thanks

Manual showed up, thanks very much.
I plan on inverting the muffler, run it straight down. The fittings look like it will work alright.
Managed to secure turf tires, will pick them up next week.
Found tire chains on kijiji for $60.
I may stud the rice tires to see how they work in the winter.
Switch to the turfs if needed for winter, definitley switch come spring.
Still haven't told my wife I'm spending $800 on tires.

I think gravel in the winter will be almost as bad as pavement. But the screws are fairly cheap. If hard facing them is too big of a pain in the but, then just put in the screws and keep an eye and replace them as they get worn. These screws wouldn't work in normal tires, they are too long. But in the rice tires they shoud never pull out as long as they are centered in the tread. Hard face or not, I think it is a great idea. Just buy lots of screws so you don't run out. Here you can buy studs from the farm dealerships. No idea on price, but I can find out easy enough. Dusty

Do you think I would need to hard face hex bolts for tire studs?
I have a gravel driveway, won't see pavement anytime soom.

hello
wanted to ask you
some parts shop
if you know of any
tou difficulties
I have a kubota L185
And I wanted to purchase a
camshaft

I am leaning towards tire studs the way you did.
I see you used 1.25 inch studs, I figure I will go with 1 inch as my ties are worn a bit more than yours.
My driveway is gravel, tractor won't see concrete unless parked in the garage.
Shoul I hard face or will the basic hex head be fine?
May consider a washer with each bolt so it doesn't worm its way too far into the tire.
Thoughts?

Vic;

I am a new user to this site and since you seem to be the goto guy and the moderator for this forum, I have a couple of questions for you.

I purchased a grey market B7001 a couple of weeks ago and have been going through evrything on it. Most everything seems to be working properly but there is one shift lever located on the right side of the transmission below the high-low range shifter that seems to be stuck in the down position. Is this the 2wd-4wd shifter? If so, is it stuck in 4WD or 2WD and what is ther most likely ptoblem?

Also, there is a 2 inch hole in the left side of the instrument cluster with some disconnected wires in behind. Hour meter, water temp or something else?