I can't find much reference to my problems with my ZD326 mower's anti-scalp wheels, so I guess I should tell all now.
When I bought this mower, I noticed there were no front anti-scalp wheels on the corners of the deck. The seller offered me a big discount for this and other reasons, and he said his dealer had told him he didn't need these wheels on Florida's flat ground. I knew what the parts for new wheels cost, and I figured it wasn't a big issue.
I did NOT notice that there was no paint on the tubes for the front wheel shafts. Somebody had used a torch to get the old wheel shafts out. It was either the seller or the old guy who died and left his wife the mower. I should have realized this meant there would be similar problems with the rear wheels.
I eventually realized I needed to change the height of the rear wheels. They were a little stiff, however. As in frozen in place. The shafts were stuck to the upright tubes.
For a couple of weeks, I have been trying to fix this. A three-foot pipe wrench didn't work. Air hammer. Machinist's sledge. Penetrating oil. None of that worked.
I eventually decided to drill the port shaft out of its tube with a cordless drill. I figured I might make it so thin, it would be easy to collapse it and get it out.
I blew up the drill using Silver & Deming bits to get the shaft out. I ended up turning the shaft into a pipe with about a 1" hole all the way through. I cut off the ends so there would be less metal to deal with.
Yesterday I started trying to split the pipe lengthwise. I used a carbide burr and a hacksaw, inserting the hacksaw blade in the pipe and reattaching it to the handle.
Today I decided to try heat before continuing. I heated the shaft to over 300 degrees, and I froze it afterward. I did this several times, and nothing moved.
I bought some sawzall blades and went to town. From time to time, I peeled the shaft shell away from the tube and used a hammer and punch to try to pry it off the tube.
Eventually, the shaft shell fell out while I was hammering the punch. I couldn't believe it.
If you look at the photo, you may be able to see that the rust that welded the shaft to the deck is extremely thin. A film. It could develop in a season. It was unbelievably dumb for Kubota to make the fit so tight. There was no reason for it. The penetrating oil was all over it, but it didn't help one bit.
I cut into the deck tube a little, but it's nothing JB weld or something won't fix. Once I paint it, it will be fine.
The starboard tube was even worse. One of the horizontal adjustment pins was stuck in it. The natural things were to oil it, try to turn it with vise grips, and tap the inboard (small) end with a hammer. I got it to turn freely, but the hammer (mine or a previous owner's) mushroomed the small end of the pin. I decided to cut off the head and see if I could push it out backward, and it worked. After I ordered a slide hammer. Which I should keep anyway, because I don't have one.
I am now in the process of cutting the starboard bracket or ear or whatever off the deck. It is easier to weld it back on than it is to work on it while it's attached. I'm going to put it in my hydraulic press, and if that doesn't work, which I really doubt, I will find a way with the mill or lathe. If all else fails, I can buy a piece of steel, make my own tube, throw out the old one and the shaft, and weld the new one on.
Tomorrow, I should have the starboard shaft out OR I should confirm that it's useless to try, so I can get started on making a new one.
I really like Kubota, but every manufacturer has at least a couple of stupid engineers, and it looks like Kubota assigned theirs to anti-scalp wheels.
My yard hasn't been mowed in two weeks. I can't bear to use the John Deere again after using the Kubota. The new parts arrive Tuesday, so by Wednesday night, the yard should be back on its way to recovery.
When I bought this mower, I noticed there were no front anti-scalp wheels on the corners of the deck. The seller offered me a big discount for this and other reasons, and he said his dealer had told him he didn't need these wheels on Florida's flat ground. I knew what the parts for new wheels cost, and I figured it wasn't a big issue.
I did NOT notice that there was no paint on the tubes for the front wheel shafts. Somebody had used a torch to get the old wheel shafts out. It was either the seller or the old guy who died and left his wife the mower. I should have realized this meant there would be similar problems with the rear wheels.
I eventually realized I needed to change the height of the rear wheels. They were a little stiff, however. As in frozen in place. The shafts were stuck to the upright tubes.
For a couple of weeks, I have been trying to fix this. A three-foot pipe wrench didn't work. Air hammer. Machinist's sledge. Penetrating oil. None of that worked.
I eventually decided to drill the port shaft out of its tube with a cordless drill. I figured I might make it so thin, it would be easy to collapse it and get it out.
I blew up the drill using Silver & Deming bits to get the shaft out. I ended up turning the shaft into a pipe with about a 1" hole all the way through. I cut off the ends so there would be less metal to deal with.
Yesterday I started trying to split the pipe lengthwise. I used a carbide burr and a hacksaw, inserting the hacksaw blade in the pipe and reattaching it to the handle.
Today I decided to try heat before continuing. I heated the shaft to over 300 degrees, and I froze it afterward. I did this several times, and nothing moved.
I bought some sawzall blades and went to town. From time to time, I peeled the shaft shell away from the tube and used a hammer and punch to try to pry it off the tube.
Eventually, the shaft shell fell out while I was hammering the punch. I couldn't believe it.
If you look at the photo, you may be able to see that the rust that welded the shaft to the deck is extremely thin. A film. It could develop in a season. It was unbelievably dumb for Kubota to make the fit so tight. There was no reason for it. The penetrating oil was all over it, but it didn't help one bit.
I cut into the deck tube a little, but it's nothing JB weld or something won't fix. Once I paint it, it will be fine.
The starboard tube was even worse. One of the horizontal adjustment pins was stuck in it. The natural things were to oil it, try to turn it with vise grips, and tap the inboard (small) end with a hammer. I got it to turn freely, but the hammer (mine or a previous owner's) mushroomed the small end of the pin. I decided to cut off the head and see if I could push it out backward, and it worked. After I ordered a slide hammer. Which I should keep anyway, because I don't have one.
I am now in the process of cutting the starboard bracket or ear or whatever off the deck. It is easier to weld it back on than it is to work on it while it's attached. I'm going to put it in my hydraulic press, and if that doesn't work, which I really doubt, I will find a way with the mill or lathe. If all else fails, I can buy a piece of steel, make my own tube, throw out the old one and the shaft, and weld the new one on.
Tomorrow, I should have the starboard shaft out OR I should confirm that it's useless to try, so I can get started on making a new one.
I really like Kubota, but every manufacturer has at least a couple of stupid engineers, and it looks like Kubota assigned theirs to anti-scalp wheels.
My yard hasn't been mowed in two weeks. I can't bear to use the John Deere again after using the Kubota. The new parts arrive Tuesday, so by Wednesday night, the yard should be back on its way to recovery.
