You've heard it before....help me pick!

[JR_nw]

Grew up in pacific NW 'in the trees' (125+ acres of timber on family property). Dad had old JD and Farmall tractors I drove to mow fields, but otherwise limited exposure to tractors. Fast forward, I am moving from suburbia to 5 acres of pretty heavily wooded land - primarily 12-16" oak trees and 16-24" doug firs. Targeting a new tractor not too big to get around in the woods, but strong enough to move some dirt, maintain some gravel, clear/maintain heavy underbrush, and help clear likely 100+ trees. Expecting to cut down to 8-10' sections to salvage for lumber and projects (likely 400#+ each). I was hoping for a grapple, but could use choker/drags if needed. I will get a separate mower to mow.

Trying to stay in the B2601 to LX range - thinking L frame would be too big/hard to maneuver, but afraid frequently moving that sort of weight will be too much for smaller lines. Open to other considerations for sure, but definitely need some guidance.

 

[Njtool]

I have an LX2610 and I use it for clearing brush and moving logs. It’s strong, impressively maneuverable, and can lift 1000 pounds or so with the grapple.
Not to mention that I have used it to make money on tree jobs and brush clearing jobs.

I have the cab model. I wouldn’t want an open station tractor. I’m cool in the summer, warm in the winter, and bugs don’t bother me at all.

This week I was on a job clearing brush and I hit a bald faced hornet nest. I just kept working as they attacked the loader. I couldn’t imagine hitting that with an open station!!

 

[Roadworthy]

You seem to have settled on a frame size already. I suggest staying below 25 horsepower. If you go above that point you will add significantly to the complexity of the tractor due to EPA Tier 4 requirements. I prefer a simpler tractor and do not believe there is a place for computers on tractors, but that's just me. The tractor horsepower does not significantly affect its capability to do work with the hydraulic system.

 

[JR_nw]

You seem to have settled on a frame size already. I suggest staying below 25 horsepower. If you go above that point you will add significantly to the complexity of the tractor due to EPA Tier 4 requirements. I prefer a simpler tractor and do not believe there is a place for computers on tractors, but that's just me. The tractor horsepower does not significantly affect its capability to do work with the hydraulic system.

I haven't really selected a frame size per se - just know BX metrics don't really seem to fit being able to move that much weight. Willing to consider the L-series, if I really should have that much size to move the timber sections. Just trying to stay as "small" as possible to do the job. Definitely would like to stay below Tier 4 emissions.

 

[JR_nw]

I have an LX2610 and I use it for clearing brush and moving logs. It’s strong, impressively maneuverable, and can lift 1000 pounds or so with the grapple.
Not to mention that I have used it to make money on tree jobs and brush clearing jobs.

I have the cab model. I wouldn’t want an open station tractor. I’m cool in the summer, warm in the winter, and bugs don’t bother me at all.

This week I was on a job clearing brush and I hit a bald faced hornet nest. I just kept working as they attacked the loader. I couldn’t imagine hitting that with an open station!!

We all hate bugs, but doesn't your cab get pretty beat up by the branches and brush?

 

[hedgerow]

I just upgraded my farm general use tractor that was a AGCO ST-25 because I wanted a loader. I started out looking at a L2501 HST with FEL to stay away from Tier four. It got sold so I looked at a L4701 HST with FEL . It got sold. I ended up finding a MX-6000 HST with a FEL at a good price. As it turned out I am glad I bought a larger tractor. You have to buy what your check book likes. I have a skid loader with a cab and many bigger farm tractors with cabs so I didn't want a cab on this size of a tractor as I use it a ton in the summer for spot spraying fields and pastures and need to get into a lot of tight places.

 

[michigander]

I have a B2601 doubt its enough tractor for your 10' logs.

Here is a guide calculator, the logs may weigh more than you are estimating.

Timber and Lumber Calculators at WOODWEB

Timber and Lumber Calculators at WOODWEB

www.woodweb.com

 

[JR_nw]

I have a B2601 doubt its enough tractor for your 10' logs.

Here is a guide calculator, the logs may weigh more than you are estimating.

Timber and Lumber Calculators at WOODWEB

Timber and Lumber Calculators at WOODWEB

www.woodweb.com

Wow, great reference link. Looks like I'll be closer to 700# each!

 

[Njtool]

We all hate bugs, but doesn't your cab get pretty beat up by the branches and brush?

Nope. The brush is in front of the tractor, being ripped out by the grapple.
ive had some smaller whips tap the glass but nothing that has concerned me yet.

Being careful and aware of your surroundings makes for more efficient and safer operations.

 

[B737]

2601 will handle longer logs, but may have to do one at a time
I would opt to spend a little more, get into an LX (or larger) to gain a little more capacity, and more comfortable operator station.

 

[Njtool]

This is a hickory log. Picked it and moved it without hesitation

 

[WDF]

I'm a big fan of the L-size tractors. You get a good amount of capability in a medium size tractor.
You'd be surprised how maneuverable the L2501 is - I only have 2 AC with some small cut wooded trails and have no problems getting around. Plus the extra weight of the L means extra pulling, as you'll break traction less skidding logs.

Good luck with your choice.

 

[Nicfin36]

My L2501 is highly maneuverable in the woods. Heck, I consider my old, and much bigger 68 hp John Deere fine in the woods as long as I can fit between two trees.

My 2 cents, bigger rather than smaller and HST.

 

[jimh406]

The L2501 is quite a bit bigger more stable tractor. Do buy fuel/hydro guards and a grill protector if you are planning to use a grapple.

 

[PaulL]

You're in the right territory with LX. I think a B would be a bit small. BX definitely the wrong machine in the woods - too low, too compromised in that sort of work.

You don't mention any mowing or snow blowing. You didn't ask for a cab. So that means that the L2501 is an option, at very much similar price as an LX. It's more machine. If you don't need the mid-PTO or a cab, then I think that would be the pick for the work you're doing.

The one material difficult thing I can see with the L is that the split brakes are on the wrong side for a hydro, you can't drive with one foot on the brake easily (you can push your left foot over the right side to do it, but it's uncomfortable I believe). Depends how often you'd use split brakes.

The big advantages are it's a heavier machine in both weight and build (matters when you're lifting stuff, and bashing in the woods), it has a substantially bigger capacity motor - more torque at lower revs. For logging type work I'd think you wouldn't run full revs, you'd putter around a bit, I gather the L does that quite a bit better due to being larger displacement. The engine in the L delivers 30-ish HP in other applications, they basically just limit the revs to keep it under 26hp. That means that at lower revs it pulls like a much more powerful machine.

 

[Oliver]

I think a B2601 would suffice but if you are also thinking of an LX 2610, and if you don't need a center PTO for a mower deck etc., I would suggest for about the same money to go with an L2501, The L is not much bigger, in fact may be a touch shorter but it is built heavier and a little wider therefore more stable. I went from a B2650 (same as LX2610) to the L2501 just for more stability and weight in basically the same size tractor. Its loader doesn't lift much more than an LX but it is stronger and less prone to torque flex from say grabbing a log off center.
Any of the 3 (B, LX, or L) will help you accomplish a lot. For example prior to my L and B2650 I had a small B, closer in size to a B2601 it was a 21hp B7500, and I was able to do most everything I needed with it. It was my lawn mower, took care of gravel and snow on my drive, and even without forks or a grapple I moved hundreds of pine logs by strapping them to the hook welded on the bucket.

 

[Freeheeler]

I'm not sure about the LX, but when I was purchasing, the B2650 had higher ground clearance and a tighter turn radius than the L2501. Both those things can matter in dense woods. As for moving logs, I prefer using pallet forks since they are much lighter than a grapple, meaning I can carry a heavier load than I could with a grapple. Can't beat a grapple though for moving brush.