wrong wheel spacers maybe? or can I change out bolts?

[PNWBXer]

So i just got these in the mail for my Bx2380.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012SOTV9G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The problem is the hole for the lug nuts only fit a 11/16 socket and the lugs on the tractor are 13/16. Because my lack of knowledge on the subject....I was wondering if I could replace the 13/16 integrated stud/head with a regular threaded stud with 11/16 lug nuts? It seems all the studs are the same size...just lug nuts have different size heads... ie, the 11/16 and 13/16 lug nuts fit the studs on the tractor.

 

[BigG]

It will work as long as the threaded hole and pitch match I would do it.

 

[B737]

get the ones from bro-tek.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I assume the heads of the lug bolts are the same size as the lug nuts, your going to have a hard time finding a bolt or stud with the same size thread and a smaller head.

You could go with #8 cap bolts ( Allen or Torx head bolts ).
Are you using a thin wall socket? might give you what you need to get them on and tight.
Or you could mill or drill out the holes on the spacers to accommodate the socket.

 

[PNWBXer]

get the ones from bro-tek.

Booooooooo.....(since it's got to be at least 10 characters)

 

[PNWBXer]

I was wrong on one point. After jacking up the tractor last night and taking the wheel off....the lugs actually do go down the holes....but so close to the edge that I don't think you could get anything down the hole to tighten them. not even super skinny sockets. I could be wrong...but only a 11/16 socket will fit the hole.

 

[PNWBXer]

I assume the heads of the lug bolts are the same size as the lug nuts, your going to have a hard time finding a bolt or stud with the same size thread and a smaller head.

You could go with #8 cap bolts ( Allen or Torx head bolts ).
Are you using a thin wall socket? might give you what you need to get them on and tight.
Or you could mill or drill out the holes on the spacers to accommodate the socket.

the bolts (studs) are the same size...the lug nuts are not. Do you know how Kubota seeds their studs to the plate? It looks like just a bolt with red locktight.....and not an automotive style where you can hammer them out...but idk. Maybe I need to do a deep dive into the parts inventory and get on the phone and get all kubota parts minus the smaller lug nuts and spacer.

I don't have a mill...and the already milled holes are super close to the inner edge of the spacer as is so I don't think that is an option with these spacers anyway. I might just have to send them back and keep looking for 13/16 holes

My other worry is that will any of this void a warranty? Just got this thing. And yes I understand i'm trying to be cheap by not getting the brotek spacers....and this is the price you pay for not paying for someone else to do it.

 

[Henro]

I seem to remember reading of others using those wheel spacers with success, so your issue should be solvable.

you are saying the issue is with the two studs as compared to the three bolts, correct?

If the bolts were an issue, perhaps you could use allen head socket head cap screws (I think that is what they are called). But that does not seem to be your issue.

Do the lug nuts that came with the spaces work in the holes in the spacers? Could you use the original Kubota nuts to hold the wheel to the spacer, and the new nuts to hole the spacer to the hub?

Perhaps crazy questions. But I am certain others have used these Jeep spacers successfully on their Kubotas. Just not sure of which tractors...

If you are only dealing with two studs per wheel, perhaps you could hand grind the nuts smaller to fit the socket that will go into the hole. Just thinking out loud...

 

[PNWBXer]

I seem to remember reading of others using those wheel spacers with success, so your issue should be solvable.

you are saying the issue is with the two studs as compared to the three bolts, correct?

If the bolts were an issue, perhaps you could use allen head socket head cap screws (I think that is what they are called). But that does not seem to be your issue.

Do the lug nuts that came with the spaces work in the holes in the spacers? Could you use the original Kubota nuts to hold the wheel to the spacer, and the new nuts to hole the spacer to the hub?

Perhaps crazy questions. But I am certain others have used these Jeep spacers successfully on their Kubotas. Just not sure of which tractors...

If you are only dealing with two studs per wheel, perhaps you could hand grind the nuts smaller to fit the socket that will go into the hole. Just thinking out loud...

Yeah I know right?!? I though this thread would bring somebody out of the woodwork who has done it before.

So yes....the 3 bolts...I can not get anything other than a 11/16 socket down those holes.....and the 3 bolt heads (and 2 lug nuts) are 13/16..or which I think is 21 mm in metric. I only have the small 11/16 heads on the spacer...so I would need to get two 11/16 lug nuts and three 11/16 bolts. Or the other option would be to buy three studs and figure out how to get them cemented on the plate and buy five 11/16 lugs. Ive never worked with any of this stuff before so I'm just looking for the best way to do this. My neighbor suggested I go to les schwab (tire place) and have them take a look to see what exactly I would need.

Last option is to send these guys back and get a set of 5x4.5 spacers that have wider holes....which is basically what brotek's are.

 

[B737]

the amount of energy and forces going on at the rear axle of even a tiny tractor like ours, is this something you want to "make work"?

get your $50 back, and you'll have the new ones in just a few days. i know im being a pest
http://www.bro-tek.com/wheel_spacers/

 

[PNWBXer]

the amount of energy and forces going on at the rear axle of even a tiny tractor like ours, is this something you want to "make work"?

get your $50 back, and you'll have the new ones in just a few days. i know im being a pest
http://www.bro-tek.com/wheel_spacers/

There are other forces at work here.......my MRS can take a $50 hit from me right now after dropping $400 a month on a new tractor. I don't want get behind the power curve B......Got to make sure my FMC's don't crash....gots to make sure TPR is valid if you know what I mean Bro! I get that ACARS message you are sending.

 

[B737]

There are other forces at work here.......my MRS can take a $50 hit from me right now after dropping $400 a month on a new tractor. I don't want get behind the power curve B......Got to make sure my FMC's don't crash....gots to make sure TPR is valid if you know what I mean Bro! I get that ACARS message you are sending.

lol i hear you. I guess when talking dollars it pays to make them work. i know i read on here people made them work. im convinced you may just need a thinner walled socket though. sorry for de-railing your thread, i will step out and leave it to the real professionals

 

[PNWBXer]

lol i hear you. I guess when talking dollars it pays to make them work. i know i read on here people made them work. im convinced you may just need a thinner walled socket though. sorry for de-railing your thread, i will step out and leave it to the real professionals

Thats a great meme....I might steal it!

 

[PoTreeBoy]

When you slid the spacer on, did it sit flat on the axle flange? If so, you're ok. I assume since the Amazon ad says the spacers have 1/2" studs and the tractor bolts and studs are metric, you can't interchange the nuts.
First, realize that there are (at least) two nut sizes, standard and heavy. For 1/2", 3/4" is std and 7/8" is heavy. For 12 mm, 19mm (0.748") is std and 21mm (0.827) is heavy. So, bottom line you'll need to use standard head bolts and/or nuts. First, you need to determine what size and thread your lugs are, probably metric. Then buy cap screws or studs. The studs are most likely screwed into the flange. If they stick out past the face of your spacer, you'll have to cut them off or replace them. You can remove them by screwing on 2 nuts and jamming them together. Then use a wrench on the inner nut to unscrew the stud. Otherwise you can use 5 studs, 5 bolts or keep your 2 studs and get 3 new cap screws with regular heads. Studs you can get at Kubota dealer, bolts and nuts from Fastenal or equal. Check the wrench size before you buy or order! Make sure you get high strength hardware.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Another thing while you're buying hardware. I think your wheels have straight holes, not tapered. If the nuts that came with your spacers are tapered, you'll need flat-faced nuts. I'd use heavy nuts or regular nuts with high-strength washers.

 

[thebicman]

Been reading this thread and I checked out the original studs/nuts at Kubota. From what I looked at the Kubota bolts have a taper on the head to mate up to the rim. The wheel nuts also are tapered for the rim. If this is correct and the new spacers have a tapered seat then socket head cap screws will not fit properly. If the new spacer has a flat bottom then the socket bolts will work. Just giving my observation, hope you work it out.

 

[BXHoosier]

I have that same brand of spacers on my BX24 and I was able to fit a 13/16 spark plug socket into the counterbore to tighten the factory wheel bolts.

 

[i7win7]

Another thing while you're buying hardware. I think your wheels have straight holes, not tapered. If the nuts that came with your spacers are tapered, you'll need flat-faced nuts. I'd use heavy nuts or regular nuts with high-strength washers.

Maybe, there only tapered on one side.

 

[PNWBXer]

I have that same brand of spacers on my BX24 and I was able to fit a 13/16 spark plug socket into the counterbore to tighten the factory wheel bolts.

Two questions.....could you torque it to 96lb with that SP socket without breaking it?

And secondly I'd like to compare the diameter of the holes....mine are:

2.4 cm (24mm) or 31/32nds of a inch.

And I just noticed that you have 5 bolts to hold the spacer on. Did it come like that stock when you bought your tractor or did you have to remove the 2 studs (like I have on my BX2380) and replace them with bolts?

 

[PNWBXer]

Been reading this thread and I checked out the original studs/nuts at Kubota. From what I looked at the Kubota bolts have a taper on the head to mate up to the rim. The wheel nuts also are tapered for the rim. If this is correct and the new spacers have a tapered seat then socket head cap screws will not fit properly. If the new spacer has a flat bottom then the socket bolts will work. Just giving my observation, hope you work it out.

Trying to wrap my head around this. So yes....both Stock bolts (3) and nuts (2) are tapered (looking like standard car lug nuts)......The Spacer has taper in the holes ...I don't see how that will not work for both stock bolts and nuts (assuming I can find a socket that will fit them...and that wont break when trying to torque them down). What am I missing here? The Spacer fits flat on the wheel plate so that doesn't seem to be an issue.

If you were trying to respond to PoTreeBoy......then yes regular Head cap Screws will not work....since Kubota's are tapered.