Working hours vs age

[Rosohatica]

No loader is always a red flag to me if you actually want a loader. It's false economy to buy a machine without a loader hoping to add one, and a tractor without a loader is severely crippled, you're only getting a fraction of the value you could have.

A machine that's been used for forestry almost certainly has had a hard life. I'd normally go the newer machine even with more hours, but not a machine that's been used for forestry. I'd guess it also means someone other than the owner driving it - staff treat machines much harder than owners do.

I wasnt thinking of adding a loader. I would be using tractor in cramped spaces, and loader seems bulky for that.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

They have been sitting outside since March, look at the images. I guess rust and falling apart seats are not something that cant be fixed, but if for the same price I can get older but taken care of pristine tractor, I would go in that direction. Oh yeah, someone cut ROPS and welded it back again for some reason.

I am not a ROPS Nazi, however, that "weld job" has me wondering.

If whomever did this thinks that this weld job passes muster, then I think they have serious "judgment issues".

I would wonder what else they thought was "good enough"

I am not a weldor by trade, but man that looks scary to me, especially the starboard one.

Its hard for me to see the the port one.

Just my $.02

 

[PoTreeBoy]

They have been sitting outside since March, look at the images. I guess rust and falling apart seats are not something that cant be fixed, but if for the same price I can get older but taken care of pristine tractor, I would go in that direction. Oh yeah, someone cut ROPS and welded it back again for some reason.

Well, given the options, your reasoning is sound. The fuel sitting for several years would be suspect for algae, perhaps it has been flushed.

 

[old and tired]

....Oh yeah, someone cut ROPS and welded it back again for some reason....

Which tractor has the "welded" ROPS? I assume the cheap one? THAT's a deal breaker unless you think you can weld it up better.

Why they took it off (if this was the one used in forestry) was to get under trees and not get hung up....

Why they replaced it, because you shouldn't (Edit: ???) sell a tractor without one... and a new replacement is thousands of $$$.

That is not safe and is rusting so it's going to get worst with age... run away from that one!!!!

 

[D2Cat]

You CAN sell a tractor without a ROPS (even if it left the dealership with one when new). A dealer will deduct the cost of replacement on trade in, but individual can sell the same tractor to an individual without a ROPS.

 

[mcmxi]

Thanks. I was not concerned with these things since at the moment I have 1986 Kubota B1402 with original tires which are as new, so not worried about that. Especially since those are agri tires L3200 has industrial which are apparently even more durable, and As far as coolant goes, I assume it remains the same you use it or not? The fuel part condensation I am not sure about. As well as oil sitting for that long. I guess one better not use it with the old oils but replace them ASAP.

Tires that sit can deteriorate much faster, depending on humidity, uv exposure, air pressure, etc. The rubber in tires needs to be stretched and relaxed regularly for optimal lifespan. Of course, you can run a tractor on the worst tires imaginable for years with checks all over them, blisters and so on so it's not a huge deal.

Coolant pH is important and it changes during use, and particularly when it's not circulating and sits for many years. You can end up with areas of corrosion inside the cooling system if the coolant just sits. You can find areas with very low pH due to the lack of circulation. It's not uncommon to find that a new radiator is required, or at least a repair made to the existing one with these barn yard finds.

Good luck in whatever you choose to do.

 

[old and tired]

You CAN sell a tractor without a ROPS....

Can a dealer sell one without a ROPs in the USA?

Also, we are talking Europe for most of these tractors so it begs to ask if their rules are the same. The L3200 he is looking at, are slight different than our US versions....

 

[D2Cat]

Can a dealer sell one without a ROPs in the USA?

Also, we are talking Europe for most of these tractors so it begs to ask if their rules are the same. The L3200 he is looking at, are slight different than our US versions....

Machine has to leave the dealership with safety item included/attached.

I can't even buy a new zero turn and not have the ROPS. It's on there and can be removed at my discretion, but the dealer is required to have it on.

 

[Rosohatica]

Which tractor has the "welded" ROPS? I assume the cheap one? THAT's a deal breaker unless you think you can weld it up better.

Why they took it off (if this was the one used in forestry) was to get under trees and not get hung up....

Why they replaced it, because you shouldn't (Edit: ???) sell a tractor without one... and a new replacement is thousands of $$$.

That is not safe and is rusting so it's going to get worst with age... run away from that one!!!!

Acually not the cheap one, but all three of the tractors used at chicken bedding produce facility. They cost between 16 and 19 k , have welded ROPS, getting rusted and seats broken. The forestry one looks much better.

 

[Rosohatica]

Can a dealer sell one without a ROPs in the USA?

Also, we are talking Europe for most of these tractors so it begs to ask if their rules are the same. The L3200 he is looking at, are slight different than our US versions....

I think US model looked like that too to begin with. The newer versions look different.
Old model seems better (stronger):

TractorData.com Kubota L3200 tractor information

www.tractordata.com

vs

New:

TractorData.com Kubota L3200 tractor information

www.tractordata.com

 

[Rosohatica]

Tires that sit can deteriorate much faster, depending on humidity, uv exposure, air pressure, etc. The rubber in tires needs to be stretched and relaxed regularly for optimal lifespan. Of course, you can run a tractor on the worst tires imaginable for years with checks all over them, blisters and so on so it's not a huge deal.

Coolant pH is important and it changes during use, and particularly when it's not circulating and sits for many years. You can end up with areas of corrosion inside the cooling system if the coolant just sits. You can find areas with very low pH due to the lack of circulation. It's not uncommon to find that a new radiator is required, or at least a repair made to the existing one with these barn yard finds.

Good luck in whatever you choose to do.

Thank you for the explanation. I think I will bring stethoscope camera to inspect both cooler and reservoir If things go well I might bring it home on Friday !

 

[bbxlr8]

Thanks, I think I will use the offer Are Kubota oils must have or replacement ones are good enough ( probably cheaper). Any recommendations?

Any diesel oil with the right service grade is fine (many crazy threads debating that around the net - everyone has their opinion and favorite but the reality is testing and certification are there for a reason and work)

You DO want to use Kubota hydraulic fluid though.

 

[Rosohatica]

Any diesel oil with the right service grade is fine (many crazy threads debating that around the net - everyone has their opinion and favorite but the reality is testing and certification are there for a reason and work)

You DO want to use Kubota hydraulic fluid though.

Hi, is there a proven difference. By proven I mean first hand experience when using a different one?

 

[PaulL]

Hi, is there a proven difference. By proven I mean first hand experience when using a different one?

"Proven".

No. At least not to a standard that a physicist would accept as proof. It might meet the evidence standard for some of the social sciences though....

But what we can definitely say is:
1. Fluids are actually different, quite a bit different
2. Kubota fluid isn't materially different in price than a good quality third party fluid
3. There's no risk in using Kubota fluid. There is some risk in using non-Kubota fluid.

In my opinion, you can use a cheaper fluid, but you have risk of premature wear. Can anyone prove premature wear? No. And for many of us we'll never put enough hours on our tractor to wear it out. But how much are you saving?

Or, you can use a different fluid for a similar price to Kubota. In which case....why? What are you saving?

Your tractor though, you can do anything you like.

 

[Rosohatica]

"Proven".

No. At least not to a standard that a physicist would accept as proof. It might meet the evidence standard for some of the social sciences though....

But what we can definitely say is:
1. Fluids are actually different, quite a bit different
2. Kubota fluid isn't materially different in price than a good quality third party fluid
3. There's no risk in using Kubota fluid. There is some risk in using non-Kubota fluid.

In my opinion, you can use a cheaper fluid, but you have risk of premature wear. Can anyone prove premature wear? No. And for many of us we'll never put enough hours on our tractor to wear it out. But how much are you saving?

Or, you can use a different fluid for a similar price to Kubota. In which case....why? What are you saving?

Your tractor though, you can do anything you like.

Hi, I get your points - they all make sense. I asked what I asked mainly because you said that for motor oil - any oil is good as long as it meets the specs, and for hydraulic oil you emphesized you strongly prefer Kubota oil. So I wondered why different approach? I don`t know much about engines and hydraulics enough to make sense of that information. I would like to understand. Thanks.

 

[old and tired]

Engine oils have standards, that the oil has to meet. Hydraulic oil (as far as I know) does not have those standards. I had bought Hydraulic oil once that specifically said not for transmission use!!! If it says "Tractor Hydraulic Fluid" it 's better to use than just plain Hydraulic Fluid.