Wonky intellipanel after cab off - need some help

[DownEastKubota]

Hello all. Sorry for my first post being a request for help, however, I'm in a jam. I've recently purchased an L5740HST. When I got it home, I noticed a drip or two from the case drain at the bottom of the transmission (sorry if I'm not using the correct terms). I didn't think much of it as I didn't see it actively dripping. However, the next morning, there was a huge puddle under the tractor. I brought it in and they had to remove the cab and split the tractor to replace all of the seals. I also had them do the 3000hr inspection and just service and fix everything they saw. $5k later (and one angry wife), I got it back and tried it out. Immediately, noticed that the HST mode doesn't display on the intellipanel. The button beeps when pressed, but it doesn't say "stall-guard or Auto H-DS" on the panel. That was issue #1. Then, during my 10 minute drive, the fuel gage dropped to half and then to empty with the fuel warning coming on. Then it went back to full (the tank was topped-off with fuel). Now it's showing half (again, the tank is actually full). That's clue #2. Next, the tractor stalled and wouldn't restart. I heard relays clicking as I turned the key, but no engine revolution. Clue #4. Since I was now blocking my driveway, I rolled backward down the slope in neutral to make room for Angrywife to pass by in her car. After rolling back, the engine started, fuel showed "full" and "stall guard" was displayed, but I couldn't change off of stall guard. I drove it home, parked it and called the dealer who did the maintenance. He can't be here until tomorrow, so I started poking around looking for an obvious loose connection. I can't find anything obvious. I know the dealer replaced the glow plug relay, which is behind the intellipanel, so that could have loosened something. He also "cleaned the grounds" - which in my limited knowledge, could be a cause. But so far, no luck.

Does anyone have any ideas? It's my only machine - and snow is headed our way!

Thanks - Joe

 

[tbk5]

I suspect you are on the right track. The connectors to the instrument panel may not have been seated fully and worked loose. Or the ground bolt was just finger tighteneed and worked lise. I don't have experience with that model. On the Lxx10 series it is easy to remove the panel if you disconnect the speedometer cable at the front of the enginefirst. Otherwise it is very tight. At least for my fingers.

 

[kubotafreak]

Leave it where it sits and call the dealer. I wouldn't touch it. More than likely they left a ground wire off/loose, and didn't recalibrate all your HST controls.

 

[DownEastKubota]

Thanks for the replies guys. The dealer is coming - likely tomorrow - but...it's....so hard not to look for myself. The feeling of a good fix is a high I have to chase. I'll report back the findings

 

[tbk5]

With the need to "re-calibrate HST controls", I agree with kubotafreak--just wait.

 

[DownEastKubota]

Do you guys think that it needs to be calibrated? Nothing was replaced - just disconnected to remove the cab. I thought it needed calibration only when certain components were replaced?

 

[Ikc1990]

Either way you spent 5 k there they need to make it right..

 

[kubotafreak]

Do you guys think that it needs to be calibrated? Nothing was replaced - just disconnected to remove the cab. I thought it needed calibration only when certain components were replaced?

I believe your having a harness ground/pin/connector issue. I don't see a reason for the cluster to be removed for a cab off. It would be most likely under/in front of the cab, unless they pulled the harness from a forgotten connection. Some dealers can even do this job without pulling the cab. Based off your drive seal issue the case is split much like a clutch change. Could even be a loose battery...

The hst/throttle needs to be calibrated whenever it gets new position sensors, or work is done in that area. The potentiometers are very sensitive. The loss of pedal center can cause all sorts of issues. The calibration takes into account variances in reassembly, and sensor base voltages. Basically your telling the computer where min, center, and max throttle positions are. If the cab was not removed before the split, then this is would be a moot point.

 

[DownEastKubota]

Thanks for the input everyone. The dealer was here first thing this morning and began troubleshooting. In addition to the symptoms listed above, the speakers no longer worked and one forward work light went out. After some time, the technician admitted that when removing the cab in the shop, they crushed a wiring harness in the right fender area - and tore off a connector. So that was the end of that. It's going back to the dealer to have the whole wiring harness replaced.

 

[tbk5]

Sorry that it has to go back but glad that they figured it out and are taking care of it.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Nice to hear 'they broke it, they will fix it' ! Had YOU 'poked around' much more, they could have said 'it was your fault', then you'ld be on the hook for a $$$$ repair.
While it may have worked fine in the shop, I suspect the bouncy trailering home, 'mushed' the damaged cable so that you saw the problem not them.

 

[tbk5]

Nice to hear 'they broke it, they will fix it' ! Had YOU 'poked around' much more, they could have said 'it was your fault', then you'ld be on the hook for a $$$$ repair.
While it may have worked fine in the shop, I suspect the bouncy trailering home, 'mushed' the damaged cable so that you saw the problem not them.

Good point about the bouncy ride. I was thinking to myself that the dealer should have a checklist they go through to test functions before delivering it back. That could explain it.