Wiring help

aaluck

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L4400HST, Bush Hog 276, RDTH60, Speeco PHD, etc
Oct 9, 2019
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Snowdoun, AL
OK. I just ran LED lights on the tractor roof. I have it run to the back passenger side tail light. Can someone please tell me the positive and negative hook up so that I can use the light switch. I have confirmed that before I cut the wires, the red tail light came on when I turned the lights on.
 

GeoHorn

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I don’t think you will like that set-up.….because the LED lights will draw more amps than you likely think…and the tail light fuse will blow repeatedly.

It would be better to run a dedicated power-wire to the LED and add a dedicated switch and in-line fuse for it. The tractor frame can serve as the ground-wire (negative connection.) The power wire can come directly from the battery….or can be “switched” with the key-switch….or can be connected to the same source-point as the headlights.
 
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85Hokie

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I'm with Geo - not a good idea for all the reasons he mentioned.

GO ahead and spend 10 bucks and get this : ( it will save you a lot of headache down the road)

RELAY and SWITCH
 
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aaluck

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L4400HST, Bush Hog 276, RDTH60, Speeco PHD, etc
Oct 9, 2019
946
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Snowdoun, AL
I don’t think you will like that set-up.….because the LED lights will draw more amps than you likely think…and the tail light fuse will blow repeatedly.

It would be better to run a dedicated power-wire to the LED and add a dedicated switch and in-line fuse for it. The tractor frame can serve as the ground-wire (negative connection.) The power wire can come directly from the battery….or can be “switched” with the key-switch….or can be connected to the same source-point as the headlights.
 

85Hokie

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Thanks for the advice. Did as you suggested. What size fuse should I use for 4 lights. Have a 30 there now.
30 amp fuse would be a bit much - what size (gauge) wire is being used?

I would use a 15 amp - see if that will hold! IF not move to the 20 - remember the fuse must be the weak link, not the wire itself.
 

GreensvilleJay

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Use an Ammeter and see exactly the amount of current be used.
Sadly ,I'm betting the package/info sheet doesn't list the current so you can either measure all 4 at once or just one ( then x4 ).
If you don't have an ammeter, you can buy V-A ones for <$5, handy tools for bench testing !
 
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GeoHorn

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What size/gauge wire did you use? Example: a 16 ga wire will carry 12A max. A 14ga will carry 15A. (conservatively using 140-F degree temps that are common in automotive use)

(easy way to check…. read the label on your typical extension cords)

It would take an 10ga wire to carry 30A…. which is larger ga. than typical house-wiring circuits.

You do NOT want to burn up your tractor’s wiring harness…and using a 30A fuse on 14ga wire will risk that.

It would be better to run individual wires to each LED/light… OR… use a relay/solenoid to supply all 4 with only one switch….(each relay also protected by a fuse of appropriate size.)

Here’s a convenient chart to help determine wire gauge VS amps:

 

aaluck

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L4400HST, Bush Hog 276, RDTH60, Speeco PHD, etc
Oct 9, 2019
946
771
93
Snowdoun, AL
I actually used thermostat wire and a 20 amp in line fuse. It did not come with a fuse and the only one I had was a 30 amp. So that is the set up right now.
What size/gauge wire did you use? Example: a 16 ga wire will carry 12A max. A 14ga will carry 15A. (conservatively using 140-F degree temps that are common in automotive use)

(easy way to check…. read the label on your typical extension cords)

It would take an 10ga wire to carry 30A…. which is larger ga. than typical house-wiring circuits.

You do NOT want to burn up your tractor’s wiring harness…and using a 30A fuse on 14ga wire will risk that.

It would be better to run individual wires to each LED/light… OR… use a relay/solenoid to supply all 4 with only one switch….(each relay also protected by a fuse of appropriate size.)

Here’s a convenient chart to help determine wire gauge VS amps:

I actually used thermostat wire which I’m sure as you know is just a solid copper wire and a 20 amp in line fuse. It did not come with a fuse and the only one I had was a 30 amp. So that is the set up right now.
 

WI_Hedgehog

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BX2370 (impliment details in Profile-About)
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Thermostat wire is 24 gauge, possibly 22 gauge in some instances; you made the wire the fuse.

Standard automotive wiring is 14 gauge stranded oil-resistant wire. The wire is stranded and oversize due to vibrations breaking non-stranded and small wire. Plugs should be waterproof, connections should be crimp (and never T-tap), and personally I add an auxiliary fuse block if adding three or more circuits. I often use dielectric compound as extra security against corrosion.

I modify vehicles on the side and poor wiring (done by someone else) was the #1 cause of odd/unusual problems two to three years after it was installed and sometimes a real expense to fix. My work costs 3x as much as most aftermarket installers (generally due to the quality of parts used), however is better quality than factory and works without problems for the life of the vehicle. Members still want EA impliments because of the awesome quality, why wouldn't you want quality wiring, especially given the risk of how expensive bad wiring can be?
 
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GreensvilleJay

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FYI . All of the 'stat' wire I pulled was 18 gauge. Miles and miles of the friggin stuff,in some really 'wonderful' industrial locations. so not all 'thermostat' wire is 24 or 22 ga.

While stranded is better for vibration, it'll 'wick' up water real bad and cause all sorts of nightmares....
 
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