Winter Oil

[kyfred]

In my M5030SU Kubota I use Rotella T 10W-30 for the last 10yrs. Kubota has 10W-30 oil we used to start with until I found the Rotella T10W-30 at Walmart. I run it yr round in the tractor.
In my 97 Dodge with 5.9 Cummins the only thing since the truck was new I have used Rotella T 15W-40. It still gets the same mileage now as it did new 18 to 20mpg highway and 14 to 17 mpg pulling gooseneck. 288,000 mi on the truck now. No break downs with the engine. Replaced starter alternator, batterys and radiator, but the engine itself is still running strong. And it does have some oil leaks.
The only thing my truck keeps getting lighter. Loosing sheet metal due to rust. LOL

 

[kuboman]

Yep...if you want the best then use a synthetic. If you worry about cost more than longevity of your machine then use regular oil.

 

[hodge]

Yep...if you want the best then use a synthetic. If you worry about cost more than longevity of your machine then use regular oil.

I have to disagree with that statement, at some point. While synthetics are great, they do help to run cooler, they do flow better at low temps, and you can go farther between changes, at the same time, there are literally billions of pieces of equipment out there, giving lots of long life, using dino oils. You can convince me that synthetics are a great product, but being great does not mean that the alternative has no value. I have stated it before, and I will state it again- you can use any oil, if you have a reasonable, regimented maintainance schedule. The schedule is much more important than the oil you use.
I have never used synthetics. My dad has never used synthetics. Both of us take good care of our equipment, and do it on regular schedules. Neither one of has has EVER had a mechanical failure with our stuff. He has a garden tiller that is older than me. My truck has 190,000 miles on it, my wife's minivan has 154,000 miles, etc. At this point, the extra cost for synthetic hasn't been justified. You can say all that you want about how great it is. I will consider it when someone shows me that their stuff is lasting longer because of the oil.
While I do believe that synthetic has great properties, I think that the belief that a person has the best product in their equipment is what drives them to buy it, not experience. Are you willing to drive a truck for 200,000 miles on dino oil, then buy the exact same truck, drive it under the exact same circumstances, run it 200,000 miles, tear both of them down, and then compare notes? Until you do, you have no tangible proof that one is significantly better than the other. No one else has done this test, either. If they had, it would be advertised to the tenth degree, proving a point. The fact is, there are WAY too may variables involved to prove one or the other is better. Personal experience is the only guage you can go by. Are you getting good service with your synthetic oil? Fine. Keep buying it. Am I getting good service out of dino oils? Yep, and I will keep buying it. Fine. We can agree on that, but until you can prove beyond doubt that synthetic is better, please do not use condescending comments. If you think that you will guilt me into buying synthetic, then you will be surprised. It won't happen.
"If you worry more about cost than longevity..."- give me a break.

 

[Kubota Newbie]

Bulldog,
Was actually laughing at eserv's quick comment quip not your economy measurement. 1.07 is pretty good, way less than my M4500 is supposed to consume at the rated drawbar HP (3.3 GPH), and it's an easy 25 HP less tractor than your 9000. That's actually why our dealer claims Kubota went away from the S2600 6 cyl engine, said the fuel economy didn't measure up to their standard.
You have to admit, it is amusing that there are "oil" adds popping up while you're reading a discussion debating the virtues of different oils. No harm meant!

 

[KennyV]

It is no secret that synthetics out preform regular mineral oil on most every point.
It is also not a secret that the people who use regular oil, because it is "good enough" for my dad and his dad...etc... are always wanting some one ELSE to prove things to them.

The information is there .. use what you like.
Ive used synthetics for OVER 30 years... AND you couldn't hire me to prove anything to anyone.

But to answer someones question about oil OR winter oil. You only need the ability to read, know where to look and comprehend the information you find...
This is not a new subject BUT are always some folks that THINK a discussion involving the use of synthetics is aimed at convincing them to do something reasonable... I could care less if someone never even changes their oil...
Just because the best alternative is available is no reason to use it... KennyV

 

[Bulldog]

How about a 409,000 oil change for a test? Engine was a Mack E7-400, torn down by a Mack dealer and then rated by a independant engine rater.

www.amsoil.com/lit/g1343.pdf


As many Dodge or ford trucks that have over 200K using synthetic oil there will be that many more that use nothing but petrolium. Putting 200K on a diesel is easy to do with any type of PM program.

Which oil is better then?
How about the one that saves the most money and still gives the highest amount of protection?

Easy numbers for you. 200,000 miles on your Dodge, Ford, Chevy, whatever.

This is an Example !!! Not pointing at a particular Dodge
Your Dodge is getting 20 mpg using petrolium oil
200,000 @ 20 = 10,000 gal @ $3 = $30,000

200,000 @ 21 = 9,524 gal @ $3 = $28,572 - - - $1,428 saved
200,000 @ 25 = 8,000 gal @ $3 = $24,000 - - - $6,000 saved
200,000 @ 27 = 7,407 gal @ $3 = $22,221 - - - $7,779 saved

Dodge owners, What kind of milage do you get?

My brothers Dodge diesel 4x4 6 speed with 4:10 diffs repeatedly got 26 to 27 mpg on the road and 24 to 25 doing everyday driving.
If your dodge is getting 20 mpg and his is getting 27 mpg then looks to me that the Amsoil lubed Dodge drove the same 200K and did it almost $8,000 dollars cheaper.

If you have never tried Amsoil then why do you think there's no way it better. I have used Petrolium oil and did try Amsoil. Not only Amsoil but used Mobil 1 for several years. Pennsoil, Motorcraft, and several other synthetic oils. I take protecting my investments very serious. The longer something can give you trouble free service the better off you are. A man that has never been outside doesn't know what he's missing. So how can anyone that never used Amsoil really have a opinion about it. I have used both, I know it's better.

 

[Bulldog]

Bulldog,
Was actually laughing at eserv's quick comment quip not your economy measurement. 1.07 is pretty good, way less than my M4500 is supposed to consume at the rated drawbar HP (3.3 GPH), and it's an easy 25 HP less tractor than your 9000. That's actually why our dealer claims Kubota went away from the S2600 6 cyl engine, said the fuel economy didn't measure up to their standard.
You have to admit, it is amusing that there are "oil" adds popping up while you're reading a discussion debating the virtues of different oils. No harm meant!

Just for a clarification on my burn rate. The 1.07 was a combined fuel consumption between my L 3000 and my M 9000. The 9000 was used the most and the hrs were almost a even 3 way split. 1/3 on the l and 2/3 for the M. I figured I better clear that up right away before it was said that I have a 92 hp tractor with a rate that low. It would be nice but I doubt it will happen.

 

[Kubota Newbie]

Why don't we just stick a fork in this thread and call it done! This is just getting waaaaaaaaaaaay to serious. How about this... I'll just withdraw the original question that started the thread in the first place and we'll pretend that this discussion just never happened at all. RC

 

[Bulldog]

I can't get my cows to cycle so I can AI breed a few of them. One of my best dogs kicked the bucket this afternoon and was not expected at all. Stroke I think or something in that area. This is the most mail I have recieved from OTT in months. Don't take it all away just yet. It's just almost to the point where some will get their feelers hurt.

 

[Kubota Newbie]

Dang, That sounds like the makings of a top 10 country music song.
Sorry to hear about the dog. Have you thought about having the vet give a hormone injection to the cows to bring them into season? Dairy? Beef?
Ya know... maybe a couple of drops of Amsoil over their tail-heads would work after all, I know folks that swear WD-40 helps their arthritis by applying it to their joints, can't hurt to try (sorry, just couldn't resist).
Speaking of the Amsoil thing, we had friends that we used to pull tractors against 30 years ago that used the stuff then in their tractors and the fleet of milk trucks they had. They always got along fine with it. We use to spank them regularly on the track though so I never gave the oil thing any thought.

BTW, Is Amsoil's continuous flow filter system similar to the Harvard oil filter system? Had friends with one of those on a 3 cyl Detroit on a sawmill (they used a Shaeffers conventional multi-grade deisel oil in the thing back then). They NEVER changed the oil in that motor, but they were religious about sending samples in for analysis (I think to Harvard). Don't believe they ever had an ounce of trouble with the motor. Makes me wonder if we shouldn't concentrate more on filtration than the specific kind of oil we use (within limits of course). I know that there is some legitimate support for those filter systems. I believe it was Harvard (don't hold me to this, but I think it was them) had a contract with the US Navy once upon a time to filter/recondition the oil in certain vessels through their system when they returned to port.

In reality though, there are a whole bunch of things that can cause engine failure or problems, and a lot of them aren't related to lubrication. In all my years pulling tractors (the little ones) and drag/brackett racing I only ever had one engine issue related to lubrication. That was when I thought it would be a good idea to put a 20w-50 racing oil in the single cyl OHV motor in the little cub cadet we pulled. Not a very bright move in a "splash" oiled motor. Most of the other mechanical calamities were due to plain old abuse or pushing something way past the limit where some engineer intended it to perform (we used to regularly twist that little motor past 8500 rpm down the track, people would hide their heads when it went by).

I understand completely on the fuel burn rate. The 3.3 GPH rating for the M4500 is at the rated drawbar HP. That means you're working it pretty hard to burn that. On the other hand, for what little I've been able to use the tractor so far it does seem to go through the fuel pretty fast. Odd really, doesn't smoke hardly at all but the fuel level goes down way quicker than I expected (but no worse I guess than the old gas Farmall). Pretty sure that I'll easily burn more than 1 GPH this spring when it's hooked to my 7 foot New Idea CutDitioner making hay. But those things can run a little hard.

Good luck with the cows!

RC

 

[jonyyuma]

I can't get my cows to cycle so I can AI breed a few of them. One of my best dogs kicked the bucket this afternoon and was not expected at all. Stroke I think or something in that area. This is the most mail I have recieved from OTT in months. Don't take it all away just yet. It's just almost to the point where some will get their feelers hurt.

Hang in there Bulldog. There are always conflicts, that's why they call it Life.
the guys at the Hyundai shop said that " Synthetic oil is not necessary" < we will just have to see about that fact. I know my Camry climbed 2 mpg, from Syn. in the motor and frontdrive gear-box. I will just have to try the engine on the new Tuscon. The transmission is electric and sealed unit. Back to Amsoil, none better. Mobil 1 ,I currently use, is less cost and easier to buy in town. But, I might try Amsoil again in the near future??Jy.

 

[Kubota Newbie]

Jonyyuma,
You saying there is no way to change the tranny oil in that thing????? ("electric sealed unit"?)

 

[jonyyuma]

Okay, Yes, sealed....They will do it.Electric shift like most cars now.."No Dipstick" It has 100k warranty, I have always done a pan change at 60k on any thing i drive, 8ok after that. This dealer said "only if service was severe". Chevy Equinox uses same type transaxle.

 

[Bulldog]

Kubota Newbie, they are beef cattle (Black Angus) and we used the seeders and then gavbe them a shot after the seeders were pulled. My friend that's helping us said every once in a while he has maybe one that doesn't come in but not all of them. Don't really know what's up. Only thing we can figure is that they may have just come in right before we started to work them and just missed their cycle.

You have a very good point about the filter. It doesn't matter what oil you use if it's not filtered properly. Oil doesn't go bad it simply gets dirty. A good quality filter is very important. I guess the only thing we were missing was the mention of a train and the country song would be complete.

Jonyyuma, these new transmissions are a pain aren't they. The manufacturers don't want us to be able to work on them. A few months before my brother passed he had bought a new Ford Explorer and it had a sealed tranny. He took his to the dealer with the Amsoil fluid and had Ford change his. They argued with him and said it didn't need service done yet but he made them do it anyway. They have ways to change the fluid out but it's done only at the dealership. That was 3 years ago though.

I used Mobil one for years and had good luck with it. I was happy with it but a friend talked me into trying Amsoil. I had a 95 F 150 and changed from 10w30 mobil one to 10w30 Amsoil. I picked up 2 mpg in the engine, 2 from the tranny and transfer case and 1 from the diffs. I had been driving this truck back and forth to work and had always needed to stop for gas during the week. After changing to Amsoil I was able to go all week on one tank of gas. It made a huge difference for me. After seeing what it did in my trick is when I started testing it in other applications and Amsoil performed better in every spot.

I met one man who has a farm not far from me. He would offer this challenge to people who didn't believe in what Amsoil could do. He would give them a oil change and tell them if they couldn't tell the difference it made they owed nothing. As far as I know everyone he did came back and paid him for the oil.

 

[ipz2222]

" They have ways to change the fluid but only at the dealership"
Not so Bulldog. Most if not all tranny shops can do that.
Sealed units, "transmissions" is another one of the manufactures most STUPID IDEAS. A transmission that is low of fluid will give you a sign, usually falling out of gear when going around a curve. Check the fluid and it's low. Top it off and take it to a service center. "Mr customer, you have a rear seal leaking and $ 60 will get you on your way.
The manufacture's idea is, burn it up then replace for $3,000.
Bulldog, I need to get some oil from you. email me with your Phone #.
ipz2222@comcast.net