Which rotary cutter

[Elliott in GA]

As I noted in my post, a pole saw with no extension is effective - and safe. It is also handy for poking through briars and brush.

 

[jimh406]

Rotary cutters cut by momentum not HP. Sure, you may have to use a lower gear instead of a higher gear to keep the 540 RPM up, but I think it's a false statement to say a L2501 "can't" cut 3 inch material. That being said, not all 3 inch material is equal. Soft wood and bushes aren't anywhere near as strong as hardwood. It "can" although you may not want to.

My dealer suggested a RCF2072 for my L2501. His reasoning is it would be easier to get close to fences with a bit wider cut. Most of what's cut in my area is not extremely thick however. It works but even it is very heavy at 745 lbs and only rated for 2" material.

The RCF2760 and 72 are rated for 3" with a starting HP of 35. However, the RCF2772 weighs over 300 lbs more than my RCF2072 that weighs 745 lbs. The RCF2772 is 1072 lbs. The RCF2772 is "Kubota" matched for M size machines. The danger of too much weight is that it will cause you to lose control and will unload the front wheels.

I would probably hire someone to cut it the first time and buy a 2" capable cutter with slip clutch to maintain it.

 

[Pound]

Bought this off of Amazon. Friend uses it with great success.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

As I noted in my post, a pole saw with no extension is effective - and safe. It is also handy for poking through briars and brush.

Elliott, is this the one you use?

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/multi-task-tools/kombisystem-attachments/htpole/

on something like this?

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/multi-task-tools/professional-kombisystem/

What model do you have?

Pros and Cons?


What worries me about a "saw blade attached to a trimmer" idea is that it just seems a little unstable/hard to control and it just gives me the "willys" for some reason......

 

[Elliott in GA]

Elliott, is this the one you use?

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/multi-task-tools/kombisystem-attachments/htpole/

on something like this?

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/multi-task-tools/professional-kombisystem/

What model do you have?

Pros and Cons?


What worries me about a "saw blade attached to a trimmer" idea is that it just seems a little unstable/hard to control and it just gives me the "willys" for some reason......

Yes - to both above; I have the 131 Kombi Power Head.

Pros:
(1) The general Kombi pro is that it is cheaper (presuming you need to buy/replace at least two types of tools - in my case I bought the Kombi, the articulated hedge trimmer head and string trimmer head for less than the cost of a separate hedge and string trimmer, and I later bought the pole saw head and pole extension). I plan to buy the blower head when my blower wears out.
(2) You only have one engine to maintain, which is easier since you use the one engine more often (you do not have a tool just being used a couple of times a year). For example, I crank and run my chainsaw every 3-4 months. I use it a lot but infrequently.
(3) The 131 is very powerful; it is almost 2 HP. This makes a real difference with some tools. I can usually slice through a limb with the pole saw so quickly that it falls while horizontal to the ground. My old pole saw would often have the limb crack and swing prior to falling.

Cons:
(1) It is heavy. Can be a good thing (balancing out the pole saw), but mostly it is just heavy. I really notice the weight when trimming hedges that are chest high (most of ours are); otherwise, the extra weight is not really an issue.

FWIW, my experience with Stihl has all been great. My Kombi, chainsaw and blower are all 10-15 years old, and they crank/run like new. Other than spark plugs and air filters, I have not had to replace/service anything. I only use non-ethanol gas that is stabilized and mixed with Stihl's synthetic 2 stroke oil.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Yes - to both above; I have the 131 Kombi Power Head.

Pros:
(1) The general Kombi pro is that it is cheaper (presuming you need to buy/replace at least two types of tools - in my case I bought the Kombi, the articulated hedge trimmer head and string trimmer head for less than the cost of a separate hedge and string trimmer, and I later bought the pole saw head and pole extension). I plan to buy the blower head when my blower wears out.
(2) You only have one engine to maintain, which is easier since you use the one engine more often (you do not have a tool just being used a couple of times a year). For example, I crank and run my chainsaw every 3-4 months. I use it a lot but infrequently.
(3) The 131 is very powerful; it is almost 2 HP. This makes a real difference with some tools. I can usually slice through a limb with the pole saw so quickly that it falls while horizontal to the ground. My old pole saw would often have the limb crack and swing prior to falling.

Cons:
(1) It is heavy. Can be a good thing (balancing out the pole saw), but mostly it is just heavy. I really notice the weight when trimming hedges that are chest high (most of ours are); otherwise, the extra weight is not really an issue.

FWIW, my experience with Stihl has all been great. My Kombi, chainsaw and blower are all 10-15 years old, and they crank/run like new. Other than spark plugs and air filters, I have not had to replace/service anything. I only use non-ethanol gas that is stabilized and mixed with Stihl's synthetic 2 stroke oil.

Thank you for the detailed reply sir!!!

I am looking at the Kombi system now.

I am considering the 131 with a pole pruner attachment to start.

I am also considering the "Advance X-treem" harness to go with it.

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/t...arness/?aqid=469902c85f5a938e45f834c1cf86132a

Big bucks for that harness, but.....

As I age, I get worn out faster, and historically, that's when I end up in the hospital. So in a way, being comfortable is a safety requirement for me.

 

[Elliott in GA]

Thank you for the detailed reply sir!!!

I am looking at the Kombi system now.

I am considering the 131 with a pole pruner attachment to start.

I am also considering the "Advance X-treem" harness to go with it.

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/t...arness/?aqid=469902c85f5a938e45f834c1cf86132a

Big bucks for that harness, but.....

As I age, I get worn out faster, and historically, that's when I end up in the hospital. So in a way, being comfortable is a safety requirement for me.

Plus, pair that harness with a chainsaw helmet with mesh faceguard, and you will have the cool factor to the max. You could go straight from the woods to a Cosplay convention as a character from: Halo, Edge of Tomorrow, Dune, Mad Max and etc.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Plus, pair that harness with a chainsaw helmet with mesh faceguard, and you will have the cool factor to the max. You could go straight from the woods to a Cosplay convention as a character from: Halo, Edge of Tomorrow, Dune, Mad Max and etc.

I'm way ahead of you my brother.....I love that helmet and mesh face guard. It never "fogs up" and it has taken a beating thus far.

I just have to pry the credit card out of my wallet.....1200 bones...man that adds up fast....

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Thank you for the detailed reply sir!!!

I am looking at the Kombi system now.

I am considering the 131 with a pole pruner attachment to start.

I am also considering the "Advance X-treem" harness to go with it.

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/t...arness/?aqid=469902c85f5a938e45f834c1cf86132a

Big bucks for that harness, but.....

As I age, I get worn out faster, and historically, that's when I end up in the hospital. So in a way, being comfortable is a safety requirement for me.

I am not sure if this helps or not, but it probably depends a lot on your use case.

I have both the stihl brush cutter (straight shaft with bike handles and back pack straps, and separately I have the stihl pole pruner. They are both great tools and when you need them it’s helpful to have in demand.

I considered a combi (that’s what I went to buy actually) when I bought them. The reason I did not come home with the combi was that the unit I demoed it felt like their was some sloppiness to the heads/individual implements vs the individual tools which everything was fixed and solid…and in my mind I did not want loose tools at my feet or overhead. The dealer suggested what I was experiencing was not normal and something needed to be fixed. They genuinely tried to not sell me two tools. Right or wrong I went individual tools.

that being said I use the pole pruner much less compared to the cutter. Looking back I wish I was patient and would have asked to try another unit even if I had to wait a few weeks.

If I thought the implements connected securely I (think) would prefer the combi.

As far as the brush cutter mine has a guard, but that only holds down some of the debris. (If you plan to use the cutter with shorts and crocs on, you may have unpleasant experience). Sounds like you have the gear so I think you would be fine with whatever you choose. I think it would be difficult to catch your foot with the tool…I’d say there is a better chance your shaft is too long and you have to adjust the handles down to your height(assuming the combo has the bike handles, but I don’t know that).

good luck. I hope this helps.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I am not sure if this helps or not, but it probably depends a lot on your use case.

I have both the stihl brush cutter (straight shaft with bike handles and back pack straps, and separately I have the stihl pole pruner. They are both great tools and when you need them it’s helpful to have in demand.

I considered a combi (that’s what I went to buy actually) when I bought them. The reason I did not come home with the combi was that the unit I demoed it felt like their was some sloppiness to the heads/individual implements vs the individual tools which everything was fixed and solid…and in my mind I did not want loose tools at my feet or overhead. The dealer suggested what I was experiencing was not normal and something needed to be fixed. They genuinely tried to not sell me two tools. Right or wrong I went individual tools.

that being said I use the pole pruner much less compared to the cutter. Looking back I wish I was patient and would have asked to try another unit even if I had to wait a few weeks.

If I thought the implements connected securely I (think) would prefer the combi.

As far as the brush cutter mine has a guard, but that only holds down some of the debris. (If you plan to use the cutter with shorts and crocs on, you may have unpleasant experience). Sounds like you have the gear so I think you would be fine with whatever you choose. I think it would be difficult to catch your foot with the tool…I’d say there is a better chance your shaft is too long and you have to adjust the handles down to your height(assuming the combo has the bike handles, but I don’t know that).

good luck. I hope this helps.

Every little bit of advice helps. Thanks for your input.

My "main objective" is to use the Pole Saw as @Elliott in GA did, to clear a bunch of saplings out and to try and just clear/clean up the property a bit.

I think I will swing by the Stihl Dealer tomorrow and "put hands" on a Kombi system and see what I think.

There is a difference between "good loose" (think AK-47)and "bad loose" (think bad wheel bearing) so before I drop 1.2K, I better see for myself I suppose.

I saw those handle bars too. I will have to see if you can get them for the Kombi system and see how they feel.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

I

Every little bit of advice helps. Thanks for your input.

My "main objective" is to use the Pole Saw as @Elliott in GA did, to clear a bunch of saplings out and to try and just clear/clean up the property a bit.

I think I will swing by the Stihl Dealer tomorrow and "put hands" on a Kombi system and see what I think.

There is a difference between "good loose" (think AK-47)and "bad loose" (think bad wheel bearing) so before I drop 1.2K, I better see for myself I suppose.

I saw those handle bars too. I will have to see if you can get them for the Kombi system and see how they feel.

I am still having flashbacks from the great flood and last boat accident so I can not even begin to think about what an ak feels like without needing some time out (of) range) .

I think @Elliot in GA is over the target with assessment.

Other thing I would mention is that in my opinion the longer shaft on the dedicated tool it generates some leverage if not right under it…for that reason I think a cage on the forks and the pole saw not extended would be better than full extension of shaft and using on the ground. (I’ll have a cage before long). Its great if need the reach, but to control it you need to be pretty close to the drop area of what cutting or you are fighting the leverage of it extended, if that makes sense. To me it’s easier to lift a pallet, lock the loader arms and put a ladder up and then not have the shaft extended. Anyway a cage on the folks would make up for that…or at least help if wanting to reach a little higher. It is not really safe to use on a ladder in my experience.

 

[Flintknapper]

Every little bit of advice helps. Thanks for your input.

My "main objective" is to use the Pole Saw as @Elliott in GA did, to clear a bunch of saplings out and to try and just clear/clean up the property a bit.

I think I will swing by the Stihl Dealer tomorrow and "put hands" on a Kombi system and see what I think.

There is a difference between "good loose" (think AK-47)and "bad loose" (think bad wheel bearing) so before I drop 1.2K, I better see for myself I suppose.

I saw those handle bars too. I will have to see if you can get them for the Kombi system and see how they feel.

I've been running a dedicated Brush Cutter on my property for the last 10 years and it is easily some of the best money ever spent. IF you have a real need for a brush cutter...then get just that (not a string trimmer with a blade attached).

I went with the Echo SRM-410U. It is shaft driven (not a spring cable like trimmers use). I have used mine HARD for hundreds of hours and it has held up beautifully.

Small saplings 1"-2" I can just rev it up and tap them...and it slices right through them. For larger saplings (up to 4"-5") I will hook the blade around the backside and slowly pull it towards me (blades runs CCW).

You'll learn quickly not to engage anything from the side opposite of rotation, as kick back will make it clear to you.

You will want a cutter with 'bike handles'......nothing else.

Another thing (MANDATORY) is a good harness. I use the Husqvarna version, but others are good as well. Do NOT cheap out here. If you don't use a good, comfortable, rugged harness.....you'll be putting that brush cutter down in the first few minutes. I can cut brush for about 90 minutes before taking a rest and believe me.... that's a lot of brush.

There are various types of blades available. Some with chainsaw blades (good for quickly cutting larger stuff, BUT needs frequent sharpening). My recommendation is a carbide tipped blade. They last quite awhile and don't dull quickly when you hit dirt.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I've been running a dedicated Brush Cutter on my property for the last 10 years and it is easily some of the best money ever spent. IF you have a real need for a brush cutter...then get just that (not a string trimmer with a blade attached).

I went with the Echo SRM-410U. It is shaft driven (not a spring cable like trimmers use). I have used mine HARD for hundreds of hours and it has held up beautifully.

Small saplings 1"-2" I can just rev it up and tap them...and it slices right through them. For larger saplings (up to 4"-5") I will hook the blade around the backside and slowly pull it towards me (blades runs CCW).

You'll learn quickly not to engage anything from the side opposite of rotation, as kick back will make it clear to you.

You will want a cutter with 'bike handles'......nothing else.

View attachment 130178

Another thing (MANDATORY) is a good harness. I use the Husqvarna version, but others are good as well. Do NOT cheap out here. If you don't use a good, comfortable, rugged harness.....you'll be putting that brush cutter down in the first few minutes. I can cut brush for about 90 minutes before taking a rest and believe me.... that's a lot of brush.

View attachment 130179

There are various types of blades available. Some with chainsaw blades (good for quickly cutting larger stuff, BUT needs frequent sharpening). My recommendation is a carbide tipped blade. They last quite awhile and don't dull quickly when you hit dirt.

View attachment 130180

Thank you very much.

This definitely gives me something to think about.

I think you make a valid point about "Shaft Vs. Cable" driven. I had not really considered that.

I also agree that a good harness is a "must have" .

Lots of great advice here today, thanks!

 

[Elliott in GA]

One last piece of advice, if you go with a pole saw, buy two chains. You will occasionally hit rocks and/or dirt, and sometimes this will almost immediately dull your chain. A quick change of chains, and you are back in business. Over the last three years, I only had to change out once, but I have had the chain sharpened (by the store on their machine for $8) several times.

I always have two chains and bars for my chainsaw, but that is to self-rescue in the event of getting stuck/pinched.

 

[Flintknapper]

One last piece of advice, if you go with a pole saw, buy two chains. You will occasionally hit rocks and/or dirt, and sometimes this will almost immediately dull your chain. A quick change of chains, and you are back in business. Over the last three years, I only had to change out once, but I have had the chain sharpened (by the store on their machine for $8) several times.

I always have two chains and bars for my chainsaw, but that is to self-rescue in the event of getting stuck/pinched.

I have Carbide tipped chains for my Echo Polesaw and a small CS-303T chainsaw. I'll use the carbide on the Polesaw when I know I'll be in dirty wood or cutting greenbrier, etc....

The 303T wears a carbide chain always.... as I use it to flush cut small stumps right even with the ground. Carbide doesn't really care if you hit some dirt. Lasts a LONG time. Doesn't cut quite as quick as normal chain...but fast enough.

 

[Donystoy]

I use a Stihl straight shaft trimmer with a regular 7 1/4" carbide blade on the end. I purchase them when on sale for usually $7 to $10 each. I drill out the center hole to one inch so it will fit the trimmer. With this I can cut up to about a 4" tree with going on both sides. I use this in conjunction with a chain saw. Have been doing this for years with great results. My pole saw I only use higher up for de-limbing. Any areas with smaller brush and tall weeds I use the bush hog.
One note is that with the saw blade occasionally jamming, the drive shaft shortens causing it to lose connection with the gear box. To remedy this, I cut 3/8" from the aluminum tube.

 

[Russell King]

I have an Echo PAS system that I really like.

Pro Attachment Series | ECHO

ECHO's Pro Attachment Series is designed to grow with your needs. Save money over with one powerhead that works with up to 16 attachments.

www.echo-usa.com

There is no looseness at the joint at all.

You MUST have the harness and the handle bar to use it as a brush cutter or you won’t be happy

you can buy a separate attachment and leave it set for brushcutter so you don’t spend time switching back and forth. I have to trim along a woven wire fence so go back and forth often.

There are also cases to keep the blades in to protect them and you from damage.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Well, I finally decided on a machine.

Thanks to all, for your thoughtful advice.

Write up is here.

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/the-bushwacker.69413/

 

[Flintknapper]

Well, I finally decided on a machine.

Thanks to all, for your thoughtful advice.

Write up is here.

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/the-bushwacker.69413/