Which box scraper and rear blade ?

[Little Timmy]

Trying to figure out what size box scraper and also rear blade to go with for my new GL 5460 ?
The dealer pretty much only sells Kubota or Land Pride implements. I’ll need to finance any that I end up getting , so prefer to have included on contract with the tractor and have a single payment.

 

[jyoutz]

Trying to figure out what size box scraper and also rear blade to go with for my new GL 5460 ?
The dealer pretty much only sells Kubota or Land Pride implements. I’ll need to finance any that I end up getting , so prefer to have included on contract with the tractor and have a single payment.

For a rear blade, I think it’s mandatory to have offset capability. And unbolting the moldboard to offset isn’t a useful way to offset. Weight is also important. A light blade is near useless.

 

[NCL4701]

For the boxblade it should be wide enough to cover the tire tracks.

Same for the blade and I second @jyoutz opinion on offset and weight.

 

[Little Timmy]

For a rear blade, I think it’s mandatory to have offset capability. And unbolting the moldboard to offset isn’t a useful way to offset. Weight is also important. A light blade is near useless.

I’m kind of looking at the Land Pride RB2672. Not sure if I can go the extra cost of the RB3772.

 

[fried1765]

For a rear blade, I think it’s mandatory to have offset capability. And unbolting the moldboard to offset isn’t a useful way to offset. Weight is also important. A light blade is near useless.

+1 on the offset!

 

[jyoutz]

I’m kind of looking at the Land Pride RB2672. Not sure if I can go the extra cost of the RB3772.

You won’t be happy if it doesn’t offset and will either not use the blade much or will sell it and trade up. I struggled with not being being to do what I needed for years with a blade that doesn’t offset. Finally sold it. With a good blade, you may not need the box blade and can afford to spend more on a top notch blade.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I’m kind of looking at the Land Pride RB2672. Not sure if I can go the extra cost of the RB3772.

I have found that a rear blade that when angled at least 35*will cover your tracks is a minimum.
A 96" blade for your Grand L is what I recommend. An RB3796 would be a minimum IMO.

I highly recommend an RBT3596 with skid shoes for your application. You will find the several hundred lbs more weight is a HUGE benefit for grading work.

As far as the box blade, just a bit wider than your tractor and as heavy as you are willing to pay for.
A BB3578 @825lbs would be a good fit IMO.

Good luck with your decisions.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Kinda curious, just what operation do you need a hydraulically moved offset blade for ?

 

[ItBmine]

I don't have much to add, other than Land Pride makes different series of blades of same size. From lighter duty to heavy duty, so you just have to pick your budget. But as other have said make sure they are wide enough to cover your tire tracks, and that means the rear blade at angle.

I also recommend hydraulic angle on the rear blade which is an option from Land Pride. I would HATE my rear blade if I didn't have hydraulic angle on it.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Kinda curious, just what operation do you need a hydraulically moved offset blade for ?

The first thing that comes to mind is cleaning out ditches at a roadside.

While yes all the blade adjustments can be made manually and hydraulics are not required, having the hydraulic adjustments, just as having top & tilt hydraulics make it so that those adjustments from minor to major adjustments are easy and completed in seconds.
It makes it so that you do not end up with "That's good enough syndrome" which is so common for those that have manual adjustments. I know that there are several places on my roads where an adjustment is for only 20-30 feet and is changed again. If I had to stop the tractor, get off, make the adjustment and hope that the adjustment was right and then do it all over again is 20 feet, I simply would not do it and those places in the road would be less than ideal.

All of this process is negated when hydraulic adjustments are at your fingertips.

 

[fried1765]

You won’t be happy if it doesn’t offset and will either not use the blade much or will sell it and trade up. I struggled with not being being to do what I needed for years with a blade that doesn’t offset. Finally sold it. With a good blade, you may not need the box blade and can afford to spend more on a top notch blade.

The manual offset that my "EA 6 way Deluxe Scrape Blade" has is very easy to use.

 

[jyoutz]

The manual offset that my "EA 6 way Deluxe Scrape Blade" has is very easy to use.

Yep. The same with my Bison blade. Landpride makes a few like that too, but only their heavier higher end blades.

 

[Little Timmy]

I appreciate all the advice from you guys. There are so many choices. That Land Pride stuff is definitely on the expensive side. Only advantage is I can have it on the contract with the tractor so it would be financed for 72 months.
I’d like some of the other brands, but can’t afford to buy any implements outright.

 

[jyoutz]

I appreciate all the advice from you guys. There are so many choices. That Land Pride stuff is definitely on the expensive side. Only advantage is I can have it on the contract with the tractor so it would be financed for 72 months.
I’d like some of the other brands, but can’t afford to buy any implements outright.

Buy the higher end Landpride blade with the offset function, use it and you might decide that you don’t need a box blade. If you do, used box blades are pretty easy to find. I used to have both a blade that didn’t offset and a box blade. When I upsized my tractor, I sold those implements with my old machine and decided to get a good blade and forgo the box blade. Four years later I don’t regret my decision.

 

[BAP]

I appreciate all the advice from you guys. There are so many choices. That Land Pride stuff is definitely on the expensive side. Only advantage is I can have it on the contract with the tractor so it would be financed for 72 months.
I’d like some of the other brands, but can’t afford to buy any implements outright.

What are your planned usages for the blades? Do you really need both blades or can get by with spending more money on 1 higher quality blade instead of 2?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

MVR..hmm.. ditches... hadn't thought of that, though I have done a lot of 'swayles' with my fixed rear blade.
I don't do roadside ditches, those are city's property and their problems !

 

[jyoutz]

MVR..hmm.. ditches... hadn't thought of that, though I have done a lot of 'swayles' with my fixed rear blade.
I don't do roadside ditches, those are city's property and their problems !

The offset feature becomes very important when there is a need to reach out and pull dirt or gravel from the ditch or push snow into the ditch. Or whenever you need to be back away from the work.

 

[mcmxi]

The offset feature becomes very important when there is a need to reach out and pull dirt or gravel from the ditch or push snow into the ditch. Or whenever you need to be back away from the work.

I bought a Land Pride RB3796 when I bought the MX6000 open station a few years ago. Rather foolishly I sold it with the MX for what I had in it i.e. $1,750. They're now up around $2,500 so it was a mistake to sell it but I didn't think I'd use it much once I bought a box blade and land leveler from EA. I now realize that it could be useful in the winter months to push snow over the edge of the lower driveway because I can't always get close enough to the edge with the 96" snow blade to safely push the build up down the hill. It would be useful for some other projects too, but would mostly see winter use on the back of the M6060.

If I ever buy another rear blade it would most likely be the RBT3596 that @MtnViewRanch mentioned. It's only $4,775 at Heartland Kubota in Sheridan, WY. Option 2 would be to buy another RB3796 and add hydraulic cylinders and hoses which could be accomplished for a lot less than the $2,225 difference between it and the RBT3596.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Good day.

Congrats on the GL!

I think you are getting solid advice above. On a machine the size you are getting i think you may be disappointed with a smaller blade when it is angled. I think those that recommend 96” are shooting you straight. If not sure consult Pythagoras (do the math )with the blade length / angle before paying the piper…

I would mention, I have a LP RBT3596 with hydraulics, and in use it’s great. However it sags as it sits…and it is a real pain in the arse to hook that up. I am not sure if you can see the sag or not, but it’s there and the QH is helpless the way it sags. Before buying one that has hydraulics, I’d recommend ask dealer let you hook one up. Then maybe think about you want QH or Pats and/or maybe top n tilt etc.

Good luck.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

First off, if your tilt cylinder is allowing the hitch to sag to one side, sag at all really, then the piston seals need to be replaced. With the cylinder-s disconnected, the hydraulics should be rock solid and should not move at all.
As far as being a pain to hitch up when your hitch has sagged, why not adjust the side link to compensate for that sag?

3 pt hitch Top & tilt cylinders would compensate for most of those irregularities.