where to buy cylinder repair kits
- Thread starter dcortez
- Start date
TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Check with your local hydraulic repair shop. If you take a set of old components with you they will measure and know availability and cost.
One is leaking, barely.
The tractor was purchased in 2012 and has 340 hrs on it. Sat a bunch after I took a traveling job for 5 years then sat during covid. Just now getting back in the saddle.
Figured if I was changing one, better change em all.
TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
340 hours is nothing. The leak is a rod seal. Replace the leaking seal and leave the rest alone.
Dan
Stopped into a couple of shops with pics and part number (LA240) but not the tractor. $300 each at one place and $325 each at another. After looking at the Kubota repair kits, I was wondering if they underbid the job and would come back with a higher price.
Kubota dealer quoted $1,378.89 for all 3.
Watched 6-7 youtubes and think I could do it.
First time tractor owner. Wasn't sure if those things would dry rot. My tire sidewalls are cracking up pretty good, got a set of Goodyear R14s on the way.
GreensvilleJay
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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Guys running those shops must be cousins of the local shop here ! For what I was quoted to 'reseal' ONE cylinder, I bought TWO new ones, 4 adapter fittings AND had a coffee and donut as well......
RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Guessing the one leaking is the curl cylinder?
BX loaders only have one curl cylinder.
I respect Dan's expertise. I would only do what you need to at 340 hours.
I wouldn't tear them all apart, just the one needing attention.
However you get there is up to you. Sometimes a repair shop can do it quickly, cheaply, and they know what they're doing.
That said, it can also be an opportunity to learn something new. I respect that as well if you have the time to do it.
Good golly, $200 for the bucket seal kit! If you think you can, you can do it.
If your shop's time is so precious, you can take it apart and take the parts to the hydraulic shop to match. If $ is premium, you could just replace the two rod seals like TheOldHokie suggested. If that's not possible, and you have the right measuring tools, you can measure and order parts on-line.
The drop collects at the yellow arrow. Left the arms up for a couple of days and when I came back it was lowered and there were 2 drops instead. Had wiped the entire cylinder down before raising to make sure that was the only spot.
Attachments
I think a leak in the hose connection would accumulate drops in the same spot.
TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Fixing that leak wont stop the cylinder from drifting.
If thats your concern and you dont need to add a lot of oil on a regular basis ignore it.
Dan
Old Machinist
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Kubota LX3310 cab, JD 4310, NH 575E cab backhoe, JD F725, Swisher 60", etc.
Search eBay with the part number and sort the results by price + shipping.
I have bought all my NH seals from eBay and they all seem to be the same quality with prices all over the place.
I have bought all my NH seals from eBay and they all seem to be the same quality with prices all over the place.
You don't need a quote on a complete hydraulic cylinder. You need a seal kit. Prices must be sky lhigh in Texas!! I get a repair kit for cylinders on a Bobcat skid steer for $11 a cylinder. BC wanted $49. This was a couple of years ago. Kit for a Westindorf loader was under $30.
torch
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B7100HSD, B2789, B2550, B4672, 48" cultivator, homemade FEL and Cab
I'm not sure if I'd worry about it if it is truly losing only 2 drips after a "couple of days" under the pressure of supporting the bucket's weight. Normally one parks with the bucket resting on the ground, eliminating even that little bit of pressure. It might be worthwhile to rig a container below to catch any drips and repeat the test to verify how much really is leaking.
Two other points:
1. We call them "seals" but a more accurate description might be "leak control rings". They are not designed to create a perfect seal, but rather to leave a very thin smear of oil on the piston surface for lubrication while keeping contaminates out.
2. Rubber dries out over time. For example, it's a well known phenomenon for the very similarly designed motorcycle front fork to seep a bit after sitting unused for the winter. Since the tractor sat for years (apparently since before the onset of Covid) this may well be the case here.
Pure Speculation: just as motorcycle forks tend to take up again after a few 10's of miles in the spring, it is possible that your seals will take up again after some regular use. (I don't know this to be true of hydraulic systems -- MC fork oils tend to have seal softening additives much like automobile transmission fluids. I don't know this to be true of Kubota's hydraulic oil).
3. The outer seal is usually called a wiper. Its purpose is to wipe dirt, water etc. off the rod when it retracts to protect the real seal.
torch
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Equipment
B7100HSD, B2789, B2550, B4672, 48" cultivator, homemade FEL and Cab
Yes, thanks for the clarification. I was speaking of the "seals" as a pair and their combined functions. The inner one regulates the film, the outer prevents (or at least reduces) contamination.
When not using a hydraulic cylinder (or motorbike front forks) for a long time I always make sure that I can extend them a small bit initially to be able to clean off any dirt that may have accumulated up to and beyond the point where the rod meets the seal (wiper) and make sure only a clean rod is being retracted. I normally use WD40 for that which leaves a thin oil film already. Since I do that I do not see leakage problems any more after long non-use time.