Where is the hydraulic fluid dipstick?

[Derby]

I have a L2850 DT (4X4) which is leaking hydraulic fluid from one of the pistons that tilt the bucket. I have read that BlueDevil Hydraulic Stop Leak is a good solution to this problem. The leak is not real bad but has been happening for quite a while and is getting worse.

My problem is two fold. First, I cannot find the dipstick for the hydraulic tank.

Second, I see two possible filler holes for putting the stop leak and additional fluid in. I do not know which is the one I should use.

The first one is at the rear of tractor above the 3-point hitch mechanism. The second is under a cap in front of the seat and below the steering wheel.

Any help to clarify these two concerns will be greatly appreciated.

 

[85Hokie]

First ............
I would not add anything like a stop leak product........

I would have the cylinder fixed first! OR if you dont want to tackle that - continue to add fluid until the unit completely fails.

that orange "port" is the fill point. Now - I am not sure IF your machine has a site glass or a dipstick.

 

[Henro]

I would just add, get the seals replaced in both cylinders at the same time.

I had a similar issue after noticing one cylinder leaking, but by chance within a week the other one started leaking too.

Cost me a hundred bucks per cylinder for the repair, but the kubota seal kit was something like $60 plus bucks each plus delivery. AND I did not have so do anything other than dropping of and picking up the repaired cylinders.

Happy camper here.

 

[imnukensc]

Pretty sure your tractor has a sight glass and not a dip stick. Go to kubotabooks,com and download your operator's manual. If your particular tractor isn't listed there will be something close enough to it to tell you. Agree about not adding any kind of stop leak.

 

[lugbolt]

inside of a hydraulic system are a network of valves, pumps, lines, passages. Each of those passages, lines, valves, pumps represents a controlled leak. A valve, for instance, controls where pressurized fluid goes, by opening up a small passage that leads to whatever component is downstream.

Stop leak can easily plug all of those passages. Also does good a plugging filters since Kubota uses filters on the suction side.

I would highly suggest not wasting the money on it. Rebuild the cylinders, fix it properly.

your tractor has a sight glass not a dip stick.

 

[Pau7220]

You got plenty of good advice above... don't let it go to waste.
Especially the stop leak part.

 

[Derby]

Thanks for all of the advice. I am disappointed in the advice against the use of the leak stop but you all should know better then I.
I did find the sight glass and the fluid seems to be up to the bottom line (about 1/3 from bottom to top).
One more question. What is the filling cap in my second picture for?

 

[Pau7220]

They both go to the same place.. you can use either. The trans and diff housings are the hyd reservoir.

 

[Derby]

They both go to the same place.. you can use either. The trans and diff housings are the hyd reservoir.

Thanks.

 

[jyoutz]

Thanks for all of the advice. I am disappointed in the advice against the use of the leak stop but you all should know better then I.
I did find the sight glass and the fluid seems to be up to the bottom line (about 1/3 from bottom to top).
One more question. What is the filling cap in my second picture for?

I had the same problem a few months ago. I removed the cylinder and took it to a hydraulic shop for rebuilding. $200 and done. Before you remove the cylinder, lower your bucket on your he ground, turn off motor and then wiggle your joystick to release pressure. Cover your hose ends after you remove the cylinder to keep dirt out. After it’s rebuilt, install and operate loader. Then turn off tractor and top off hydraulic fluid. Done, and a simple job.

 

[jyoutz]

I had the same problem a few months ago. I removed the cylinder and took it to a hydraulic shop for rebuilding. $200 and done. Before you remove the cylinder, lower your bucket on your he ground, turn off motor and then wiggle your joystick to release pressure. Cover your hose ends after you remove the cylinder to keep dirt out. After it’s rebuilt, install and operate loader. Then turn off tractor and top off hydraulic fluid. Done, and a simple job.

And I don’t agree that you need to have both cylinders rebuilt if the other one isn’t leaking. I rebuilt the left cylinder about 12 years ago, and the right cylinder lasted until this year.

 

[Old_Paint]

Just agreeing with all others. Stop-Leak is a no-no.

 

[mikester]

If you wait long enough it will stop leaking altogether. No need to RTM, reading is for wusses.

 

[Derby]

Thanks to all of you for your advice. The solid negative opinions against stop leak (and especially what Lugbolt wrote) convinced me to not use it.
I was unable to put the inside seal in the the one end but a friend of a friend had a son who was able to do it for me. Everything is back together and there are no leaks in either cylinder I repaired.
All it cost me was around $60 for the two seal kits and a little something I gave the fellow who inserted the two seals I had trouble with.
BTW, mikester, I have the manuals and do read them but I've never been a mechanic and much of what I read might as well be in a foreign language.

Again, thanks to all who offered advice.