I have 5 acres about 4.5 are just empty field. I need to spray to kill noxious weeds that are taking over. I don’t want to kill whatever grass is growing. What do I use? I tried reading up on the online and there is way too much information to figure out what’s going to work. Any help or advice is appreciated.
What to spray field with?
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Bmyers
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Well, it really depends on the weed you are trying to kill. If your weed is a broadleaf, then that is the type of killer you look for which generally won't hurt grass. Except remember that grass can be harmed when sprayed in warmer temps.
Make sure you read and follow the instructions. Plus, you may have local regulations that come into play (i.e. close to water source, etc.) that may need to be followed. Getting help from someone local, such as the local farm bureau could be a benefit.
Make sure you read and follow the instructions. Plus, you may have local regulations that come into play (i.e. close to water source, etc.) that may need to be followed. Getting help from someone local, such as the local farm bureau could be a benefit.
I'm a bit of an herbicide nerd - as I've been spraying deer foodplots for many years.
Generally, I try to understand what plants i'm targeting... if its "everything" thats easy... glyphosate (roundup) is cheap and effective, especially with a surfactant added in.
In your case, sounds like you want to hammer the broadleaf weeds and leave behind the grasses. There are several herbicides that'll work. Most of them are likely to contain 2,4D or 2,4DB.
Between those two, I'd look for 2,4D as it is more broad spectrum effective against broadleaf plants. (2,4DB is more picky about which broadleaf weeds it'll kill). Most big box hardware stores will sell herbicides that should fit your need since people have the same need in their lawns.
One last comment - if you're spraying 4.5 acres, I assume you're not out there doing it by hand - and are instead using a spray trailer or similar larger tank setup. Just watch that 2,4D and 2,4DB around trees, especially if using a boomless sprayer - wind drift can wipe out trees you didnt intend to kill... ask me how I know
Generally, I try to understand what plants i'm targeting... if its "everything" thats easy... glyphosate (roundup) is cheap and effective, especially with a surfactant added in.
In your case, sounds like you want to hammer the broadleaf weeds and leave behind the grasses. There are several herbicides that'll work. Most of them are likely to contain 2,4D or 2,4DB.
Between those two, I'd look for 2,4D as it is more broad spectrum effective against broadleaf plants. (2,4DB is more picky about which broadleaf weeds it'll kill). Most big box hardware stores will sell herbicides that should fit your need since people have the same need in their lawns.
One last comment - if you're spraying 4.5 acres, I assume you're not out there doing it by hand - and are instead using a spray trailer or similar larger tank setup. Just watch that 2,4D and 2,4DB around trees, especially if using a boomless sprayer - wind drift can wipe out trees you didnt intend to kill... ask me how I know
Around here the easiest is to just keep mowing it. The weeds will gradually be out competed by the grass. You could spot spray or dig anything really big or noxious, but a tractor with a bucket will take out wild rose and a few other big things. After that mowing for a few years will turn it into a lawn like terrain.
Magicman
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2, 4-D Amine is my go-to for your described situation. I would first spray a test strip to be sure that it serves your intended purpose. There are some few grasses that it will kill but not any usual "pasture grasses".
I’m not a proponent of chemicals on my fields. I prefer mechanical methods. In general, if you mow, the grasses will compete well with weeds especially if they are native grasses. Most weeds get a headstart in the Spring. Cutting them early, once the grasses start growing, gives the grass an equal chance.
BigG
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If you have the time and energy a few sheep or goats would do to keep the field cleaned up.
I would check with the County Extension Service for allowed chemicals.
I also would look at using a wiper instead of a sprayer to apply the chemicals along with some well timed mowing to get the weeds under control.
I think you could make your own with a little bit of planning but here is a commercial unit just for a thought. https://www.smucker.net/copy-of-atv-mounts?page=2
I would check with the County Extension Service for allowed chemicals.
I also would look at using a wiper instead of a sprayer to apply the chemicals along with some well timed mowing to get the weeds under control.
I think you could make your own with a little bit of planning but here is a commercial unit just for a thought. https://www.smucker.net/copy-of-atv-mounts?page=2
TheOldHokie
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Plus one for 2-4-D. A safe and effective general purpose broad leaf herbicide that I have been using for 4+ decades. If it leaves you with a few problem varieties target them with something more specific in the next tank mix.
Dan
I spot spray in meadows with this. Main ingredient is triclopyr. Spot sprayed in yard as well.
Magicman
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Oh my, that 4+ decade comment made me look/think back. I'm not in a race but 60+ years is a looong time that I have been using it. 
TheOldHokie
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Well if i counted the weed and feed i applied to my parents yard i could get close to thatOh my, that 4+ decade comment made me look/think back. I'm not in a race but 60+ years is a looong time that I have been using it.
Bottom line is it is a tried and true solution that people have been using for even longer than that.Dan
Thank you for all the replies! There are a few different weeds that I am specifically targeting but I think the 2-4-D will work. The position I am in is I just bought this house this year and the previous owner didn’t do anything the whole time he lived here so the property was pretty overgrown when I first mowed this spring. I just had another baby in April so haven’t had the time to mow for the past couple months. It seems like more weeds grew back this time. I’d like to get the property under control so all I need to do is mow in the future, but right now some spray os going to be needed. Goats would be an option but I’d have to fence my property so that’s out of the question right now. I’m glad people mentioned checking with the County. I never considered that some things wouldn’t be ok to spray.
Bmyers
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The best suggestion, which several have given is to contact your local county outreach office/farm bureau. They can give you a lot of guidance and it will be specific to your area. Plus, they should be able to help you know if you are in a water protection zone that can limit what you are able to spray.
Creature Meadow
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I don't live in a subdivision so having a super nice lush lawn would take forever to accomplish and lot of money.
I do however like to minimize weed competition with my grass so my grass areas can thrive.
My local seed/fertilizer/chemical company turned me on to Cimarron Plus broadleaf killer. It also kills bahia grass(Paspalum notatum) the one the state plants in it mix along the roadside. Tall spindly grass.
It is pretty cheap and the rate is .33oz per 25 gallons.
I spray once in the spring at green-up and then once in late summer. Works well for me to control broad leaf weeds. I find best results when the soil is moist so the weeds are taking in the water/chemical. Dry grass and weeds tend to go into a dormant state thus not taking in the product.
I would also recommend getting a soil test done, weeds thrive when the PH is off, adding lime is cheap.
Keep grass cut low as well to minimize the weeds from seeding out, thus spreading the seeds when you mow.
Cutting low also promotes Centipede and Bermuda grasses to grow horizontal creating a thicker lawn as opposed to vertical. Around my house I cut at 1.5" and other places either 1.5" or 2".
Best of luck in you battle with weeds, we all deal with them in some way, especially in my garden.
Jay
I do however like to minimize weed competition with my grass so my grass areas can thrive.
My local seed/fertilizer/chemical company turned me on to Cimarron Plus broadleaf killer. It also kills bahia grass(Paspalum notatum) the one the state plants in it mix along the roadside. Tall spindly grass.
It is pretty cheap and the rate is .33oz per 25 gallons.
I spray once in the spring at green-up and then once in late summer. Works well for me to control broad leaf weeds. I find best results when the soil is moist so the weeds are taking in the water/chemical. Dry grass and weeds tend to go into a dormant state thus not taking in the product.
I would also recommend getting a soil test done, weeds thrive when the PH is off, adding lime is cheap.
Keep grass cut low as well to minimize the weeds from seeding out, thus spreading the seeds when you mow.
Cutting low also promotes Centipede and Bermuda grasses to grow horizontal creating a thicker lawn as opposed to vertical. Around my house I cut at 1.5" and other places either 1.5" or 2".
Best of luck in you battle with weeds, we all deal with them in some way, especially in my garden.
Jay
The County has a Noxious weed board that puts out all of this information and they suggest using 2,4-D and WeedMaster, so you are correct. I will need to get a hold of them and figure out what the deal is. There is a lot of conflicting information. Thanks again for all the responses.
Bmyers
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Good luck. It can be a challenge to find an effective product that also meets local regulations.
Ok I talked to the weed control board and they say 2,4-D is fine to use. They also suggested Pasture Pro. I still need to buy a sprayer so I’ll mow for now and do some research on what might be my best option. Hopefully can spray when weeds start to come up again. It’s too hot right now to spray anyway.
For some reason the baby and the chemicals send a red flag up my pole. I have lots of weeds and young children .It never bothered me. The long range effects of many chemicals is not fully understood and differs from person to person. Why take any risk in my opinion.