What size / grade chain for lifting and pulling?

trackman23

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MX4800
Nov 22, 2023
84
16
8
NC
I'm new to the tractor and heavy equipment world so please bear with me. I want to buy some chain to keep in the barn that I can use to lift implements in and out of a trailer as well as to tow logs, etc. Is there a specific size / gauge / type of chain that I should buy to ensure that I have enough strength?

Thanks
 

85Hokie

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Grade wise? 70 should be a plenty.

As for size? I like ol 5/16" - why you ask, well it is not toooo heavy to tote around and it is plenty strong depending on what you want to do.

the best part about 5/16 is that it will bind in a 3/8" hook and it will bind in a 1/4" hook !!!

Middle of the road that is easy to carry and strong enough for 95% of what you need to do.

Your MX might be strong enough to break a 5/16" but I doubt it.

As a newbie - always pull something that is heavy or stuck from the draw bar - NOT the 3 point hitch.

Pull low and slow!

Always think - IF THIS CHAIN fails - where is the end coming? I knew a person that was killed when a chain broke and the end came through the cab and hit him in the head.

IF pulling with bucket hooks - again low, and if possible, allow the bucket to help block the path of the chain if it fails.
 
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Trimley

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I would suggest 5/16 for overall general needs you describe.
 

The Evil Twin

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Yep, pretty much the same suggestion here. Tractor Supply is usually stocked with it.
 
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jyoutz

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Yep, pretty much the same suggestion here. Tractor Supply is usually stocked with it.
Yep, and I recommend having a long 20’ chain and two short 10’ chains. It’s cheaper to just cut a 20’ into two tens and just add grab hooks instead of buying 10 footers.
 
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The Evil Twin

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Yep, and I recommend having a long 20’ chain and two short 10’ chains. It’s cheaper to just cut a 20’ into two tens and just add grab hooks instead of buying 10 footers.
For sure. It's amazing how much it cost to have some dude cut it at the warehouse.
 

NCL4701

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5/16” Grade 70 will give you 4700lb working load limit. Official WLL on Grade 70 chain is 4:1 so break strength rating on 5/16” is 18,800lb.

3/8” Grade 30 (also known as Proof Coil) has a WLL of 2650lb but it weighs more than 5/16”, making it harder to work with. Which is why you’re better off with a physically smaller chain with a higher grade.

If you get to rigging with snatch blocks and such where you’re multiplying the pulling force of your tractor, keep in mind you really should be figuring the capacity of your rigging on WLL rather than ultimate break strength. 4:1 may be a bit extreme (figuring 3:1 or 2:1 may be reasonable if not for overhead lifting), but some items, such as ropes are rated at 2:1 so you have to pay attention to that when setting up rigging.

As a general rule, a rubber tired farm style tractor on dirt won’t have a drawbar pull greater than its own curb weight. Usually some percentage less than 100% depending on 2WD v 4WD, tire type, shear factor of soil, uphill v downhill, etc. For example, my L weighs about 3300lb. But after adding the loader, liquid ballast, and something on the 3 point it’s more like 5500lb to 6000lb. When I first got the tractor, we were breaking too much of the rigging we’d used with the old 9N and had to put a little thought into a few upgrades. Figuring max drawbar at the 6000lb max realistic weight of the tractor is probably a bit optimistic, but it also likely provides a bit of a safety factor; and we quit breaking chains and ropes.

So for lifting, it’s pretty straightforward: whatever the loader will lift add a pretty stout safety factor when looking at ratings of whatever is in the setup. For drawbar: figure out what your tractor actually weighs as configured for the pull and assume that weight is the max drawbar force before spinning out.

So, that’s why everyone is telling you to get 5/16” Grade 70. And they’re correct.

And remember, it isn’t a D9N or whatever, but it’s not a BX either. It’s a big enough machine to put some serious force on something. Enough force to, as 85Hokie said, cause some real damage if you don’t think about what you’re doing and what you’re doing it with. So put a little thought and research into whatever rigging you’re setting up for lifting or pulling, and enjoy all the stuff you can do with a very capable machine.
 
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nbryan

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I'm new to the tractor and heavy equipment world so please bear with me. I want to buy some chain to keep in the barn that I can use to lift implements in and out of a trailer as well as to tow logs, etc. Is there a specific size / gauge / type of chain that I should buy to ensure that I have enough strength?

Thanks
I found a slip hook rather than a grab hook at one end of my chains makes for way easier log pulling.
 
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chim

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Jan 19, 2013
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Logging chain hooks are nice. I have a few chains with a grab hook o one end and a logging chain hook on the other. They often come in handy and there's no logging operation here.
 

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wp6529

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Agree with 5/16" grade 70 chains with grab hooks for all around use. Commonly available and relatively inexpensive. The 10' ones will be your go-to and to 20' will get less use but you will still need it on occasion. Also get an assortment of web slings and shackles as well. Slings are very good for a lot of things to either avoid damage to surfaces or to wrap and provide grip.

Probably the #1 think you need for safety is knowledge though. You need to be able to estimate your load weight and you also need to know your rigging angles and de-rate the rigging accordingly. i.e. when you have something rigged with more than a single vertical lift line you need to underatand that if the chains or slings are not vertical you have to derate their capacity based on how far out of vertical they are. You can find good rigging guides online to study.
 
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trackman23

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MX4800
Nov 22, 2023
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8
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Wow! Thank you folks for all the responses and the details behind your recommendations! Lots of great info here.
 

Runs With Scissors

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I am in the 5/16 camp as well.

3/8 is pretty heavy and hard to work with.