What is best position for changing hydraulic filters? L3560 50 hr maintenance

[Firstgear]

It’s difficult for me to get down on the ground and then get up. UGH! So before I have to get up and down several times (I have had both knees replaced), what is the best way to get under the tractor, L3560, to change the hydraulic filters out? Go under from the rear, go under right in front of right rear tire, left rear tire? Looking to make this as painless as possible.

I have three 4 post lifts but they are filled with cars as we are moving to new house and they are jammed up right now. Once we get into new home, they will free up and I can just put the tractor on the lift.

Thank you in advance.

 

[old and tired]

I would wait until the lift is Open to use... It's not that critical to have fluids changed exactly on time... How many hours are you over?

 

[Firstgear]

I would wait until the lift is Open to use... It's not that critical to have fluids changed exactly on time... How many hours are you over?

I am at 52 hours, got the oil changed no problem. Probably 3.5 months away from getting into house, however I need the tractor with grapple to move a number of logs to either get them out of the way or cut them for firewood. In the photo is a fraction of the logs.

 

[old and tired]

 

[Firstgear]

Bite the bullet and pay to have it done, if it bother's you... I would not worry about and just run it extra hours for the 4 months.

You must not the answer as you haven’t even said how you do it.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I can't answer your question, but I would get the service manual and see what it says. It should at least tell you what tools to "bring down" with you.

If it's available, I'm certain someone will post a link to a downloadable version of it.

I just did the "200 hour " yesterday on my 2501.

The filters are all visible from the side view, and very easy to get to.

 

[mikester]

The hard way

 

[Firstgear]

View attachment 152832
The hard way

Good one!

 

[wsurff]

In from the side, in front of the rear tire. Have a shop vac on the filler port to minimize fluid loss. Have a strap wrench available. They are a bear to remove the first time, with minimal room for removal equipment.

 

[Firstgear]

In from the side, in front of the rear tire. Have a shop vac on the filler port to minimize fluid loss. Have a strap wrench available. They are a bear to remove the first time, with minimal room for removal equipment.

Perfect thank you! I will report back later…

 

[SDT]

It’s difficult for me to get down on the ground and then get up. UGH! So before I have to get up and down several times (I have had both knees replaced), what is the best way to get under the tractor, L3560, to change the hydraulic filters out? Go under from the rear, go under right in front of right rear tire, left rear tire? Looking to make this as painless as possible.

I have three 4 post lifts but they are filled with cars as we are moving to new house and they are jammed up right now. Once we get into new home, they will free up and I can just put the tractor on the lift.

Thank you in advance.

I did my L6060 from the side in front of the right rear wheel. Yes, removing the factory installed filters can be very tough. A strap wrench may help but install it near one end to reduce the possibility of collapsing the filters. Make sure that you have a couple of adequate drain pans and lots of rags or paper towels. I drained/replaced all of the oil so didn't worry about trying to minimize oil loss. If you drain all of the oil, a wash tub will be handy.

As others have said, changing the oil and filters exactly at 50 hours is not critical and operating a bit past will not affect your warranty. Be certain to reset the engine oil and hydraulic oil monitor in the Intellipanel once finished. Read the Operator's Manual to learn how.

FWIW, I expected to be in my new house around Thanksgiving but it is not yet finished and will not be before the end of May. Par for the course.

 

[Firstgear]

I did my L6060 from the side in front of the right rear wheel. Yes, removing the factory installed filters can be very tough. A strap wrench may help but install it near one end to reduce the possibility of collapsing the filters. Make sure that you have a couple of adequate drain pans and lots of rags or paper towels. I drained/replaced all of the oil so didn't worry about trying to minimize oil loss. If you drain all of the oil, a wash tub will be handy.

As others have said, changing the oil and filters exactly at 50 hours is not critical and operating a bit past will not affect your warranty. Be certain to reset the engine oil and hydraulic oil monitor in the Intellipanel once finished. Read the Operator's Manual to learn how.

FWIW, I expected to be in my new house around Thanksgiving but it is not yet finished and will not be before the end of May. Par for the course.

Thank you for your comments. You have a great tractor for sure. This is my first and I love it. Has the cab and that is great. The oil changed was very easy to do. I have watched some YouTube videos so I know these filters can be a bear to get off, but I have the correct tools to tackle it. As a side note I took a 1960 Corvette all the way down to the frame, modified the frame and back up again. Here is a photo of my car…

 

[SDT]

Thank you for your comments. You have a great tractor for sure. This is my first and I love it. Has the cab and that is great. The oil changed was very easy to do. I have watched some YouTube videos so I know these filters can be a bear to get off, but I have the correct tools to tackle it. As a side note I took a 1960 Corvette all the way down to the frame, modified the frame and back up again. Here is a photo of my car…

Fantastic car. Thanks for posting.

I've been a motorhead all of my life and mostly a Chevy guy. In a former late 60s life, I built and drag raced small block Chevys.

 

[Firstgear]

Well, one for two. The smaller of the two is a real bugger. It’s going to have to wait. What does the dealer use to get them off? Anyone know?

 

[whitetiger]

Well, one for two. The smaller of the two is a real bugger. It’s going to have to wait. What does the dealer use to get them off? Anyone know?

An air hammer with a blunt tip. Put the tip in one of the notchs and pull the trigger. You only have to turn it about 1/2" and it will unscrew easily with filter pliers.