I watch this channel, pretty amazing how he unloads and loads everything.Loaded up for this week's festivities and came up with an easy way to get the plate compactor on the trailer as well. Who knew mini's could be so much fun?
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Found a 2 inch gouge in the side wall. Debating on putting a tube in it or replacing it.I kicked mine today for getting a front flat tire. Only owned this for 3 weeks. Jacked it up to feel around the tire but nothing. Have to wait until this weekend to fix it.
You do realize that "with a loader", there is no real need to ever jack up the front end, for tire inspection/repair?
I'm still learning this tractor and thought about using the loader to lift but wasn't taking any chances. Used my 3 ton hydraulic jack. Even if I do use the loader, would still put a jack underneath for safety.
Actually putting a jack underneath is a very BAD idea!
Is this the one? https://www.harborfreight.com/65-hp-plate-compactor-69738.html
Lowering the bucket into the ground would have put on the brakes. Use lower gears for sure. Glad your still with us.
That is the one. It's about $300 higher than what I paid for it back in 2017/18
I didn't think of dropping the bucket, really, I don't think I had time to think at all, as it happened in the blink of an eye, but I'll add that to the database (my brain.. but doesn't hold much data, lol). And the BX only has two gears, turtle and rabbit, I was in turtle with the treadle peddle barely pressed..
If you have 4x4 engaged, the braking force of the front wheels might make it tilt forward even more quickly. You completely change the physics of the tractor when you put that much weight out in front of the front wheels, never mind the front axle turns into a seesaw once the back wheels are off the ground. Keep that bucket as low as possible when moving, even empty, and even if it occasionally rubs the high spots in your road. You'll only smooth your road some as you work, and you'll minimize the seesaw effect of the front axle pivot. If a load in the bucket or lifting on something with the FEL can raise the back wheels, even slightly, you need more counterweight on the back of the tractor. The hydraulic system of your tractor is designed to prevent you from damaging the "suspension" (pivot pin in the front axle) or breaking the front axle. It will relieve the pressure if the load is too much for the FEL (and the weight limits of the tractor). The rear axle and tires are clearly stronger and can be loaded up heavily to counterbalance the front loading. If you're doing loader work, put your heaviest 3-point attachment on the back. If you have none (yet), get an old drum and outfit it for a 3-point connection to the tractor, and fill it full of ballast be it rocks, concrete, whatever. The farther back you can put the ballast, the more effective it is, but then you start getting into overall length and maneuverability issues. Just get something heavy on the back.
I am currently running loaded tires, mid-mount mower deck, and the power bagger as ballast (~450-500 lbs) and 2" spacers on both sides - the tractor never felt overloaded or even remotely tippy. I only tried running 2wd on the third trip from the pile to the bed, and its one of the shallowest inclines I drove the whole time (FEL was near the ground when traveling as well) - it was simply like the tractor was on ice.. I really don't understand what happened, brake pedal all the way to the floor, zero response.. all other trips, before and after, it seemed 100% in control, even tried much steeper sections of the lawn, stuck like velcro.
Of course that typically is my luck. Rather have that then buy something and have it go 50% off two days later lolThat is the one. It's about $300 higher than what I paid for it back in 2017/18
