What can cause air in home plumbing?

[armylifer]

I have water that is naturally high in magnesium. My water is also very soft with a PH of 6.8, without treatment. I have measured levels of 6.6 on at least a couple occasions through the years. The only reason I have measured the PH of our water is to make sure the balance is correct for our hot tub. I measure the ph after a complete drain and refill of the hot tub twice per year.

 

[McMXi]

According to these experts ...

Causes of Air in Cold Water Lines

Air in cold water only or both in the hot and cold water is a completely different problem [compared to air in hot water lines only] and it’s likely coming from your well. We suggest calling a plumber to make sure the problem is corrected properly. Air in water lines can cause a lot more problems in your plumbing system than just splashing water all over the place when you use it.

Other signs that you have air in your water pipes are uneven water flow, air bubbles in the water, noises that can result from a phenomenon called water hammer, and problems with your dishwasher and washing machine.

Air in Hot Water Line

Air in hot water line is caused by a reaction in your water heater. Corro-Protec stops that reaction and prevent it so you don't have do deal with air in your hot water line.

www.corroprotec.com

Since you only have air in the cold water lines it seems to rule out water heater issues.

 

[Flintknapper]

According to these experts ...

Causes of Air in Cold Water Lines

Air in cold water only or both in the hot and cold water is a completely different problem [compared to air in hot water lines only] and it’s likely coming from your well. We suggest calling a plumber to make sure the problem is corrected properly. Air in water lines can cause a lot more problems in your plumbing system than just splashing water all over the place when you use it.

Other signs that you have air in your water pipes are uneven water flow, air bubbles in the water, noises that can result from a phenomenon called water hammer, and problems with your dishwasher and washing machine.

Air in Hot Water Line

Air in hot water line is caused by a reaction in your water heater. Corro-Protec stops that reaction and prevent it so you don't have do deal with air in your hot water line.

www.corroprotec.com

Since you only have air in the cold water lines it seems to rule out water heater issues.

Dissolved gases in water solution (water temperature high) escapes more easily than in cold water, may be one explanation for that.

I don't think an aged Anode Rod has anything to do with the OP's issue either, but most will need replacement at 3-7 yrs depending upon water condtion and wether the Sacrificial metal was Aluminum or Magnesium. So likely replacing the anode rod(s) would be a good maintanence endeavor while troubleshooting this issue.

I'd like to know how much 'bubbling' is present in a drawn glass of water and if the glass is allowed to settle for an hour . Are the bubbles mostly gone, save for some stuck on the sides of a clear glass? This might give us some direction with respect the make up the water being drawn.

 

[Jsjac]

Where the line goes down the well it is connected to a fitting on the side of the well casing. It is called a pitless adapter. There is an o- ring in the connection. If the check valve that is at the pump leaks a little ,it can suck air in at the pitless adapter.
Seen it many times.

There is a check valve in the top of the pump usually. It is not very good quality. Most pump installers put a good check valve on top of the pump.
You can drop an ice cube down the well to check the water level. Should be about one second per ten feet.

 

[Flintknapper]

Where the line goes down the well it is connected to a fitting on the side of the well casing. It is called a pitless adapter. There is an o- ring in the connection. If the check valve that is at the pump leaks a little ,it can suck air in at the pitless adapter.
Seen it many times.

There is a check valve in the top of the pump usually. It is not very good quality. Most pump installers put a good check valve on top of the pump.
You can drop an ice cube down the well to check the water level. Should be about one second per ten feet.

''

^^^^^

My first thought as well (no pun intended) faulty check valve(s) and asked that question early on (are check valves present). Still could be something else. Aren't plumbing issues fun?

 

[armylifer]

According to these experts ...

Causes of Air in Cold Water Lines

Air in cold water only or both in the hot and cold water is a completely different problem [compared to air in hot water lines only] and it’s likely coming from your well. We suggest calling a plumber to make sure the problem is corrected properly. Air in water lines can cause a lot more problems in your plumbing system than just splashing water all over the place when you use it.

Other signs that you have air in your water pipes are uneven water flow, air bubbles in the water, noises that can result from a phenomenon called water hammer, and problems with your dishwasher and washing machine.

Air in Hot Water Line

Air in hot water line is caused by a reaction in your water heater. Corro-Protec stops that reaction and prevent it so you don't have do deal with air in your hot water line.

www.corroprotec.com

Since you only have air in the cold water lines it seems to rule out water heater issues.

Thanks, I think

Dissolved gases in water solution (water temperature high) escapes more easily than in cold water, may be one explanation for that.

I don't think an aged Anode Rod has anything to do with the OP's issue either, but most will need replacement at 3-7 yrs depending upon water condtion and wether the Sacrificial metal was Aluminum or Magnesium. So likely replacing the anode rod(s) would be a good maintanence endeavor while troubleshooting this issue.

I'd like to know how much 'bubbling' is present in a drawn glass of water and if the glass is allowed to settle for an hour . Are the bubbles mostly gone, save for some stuck on the sides of a clear glass? This might give us some direction with respect the make up the water being drawn.

When I draw water from the tap into a glass, the water looks cloudy not as if there is any real bubbles in it. The air bubbles are very very tiny. They dissipate Within a minute or two and the water becomes absolutely clear, except for a bubble or two on the side of the glass. There is absolutely no foreign taste or any kind of smell whatsoever. I had the water tested for contaminants and there is absolutely none.

 

[McMXi]

When I draw water from the tap into a glass, the water looks cloudy not as if there is any real bubbles in it. The air bubbles are very very tiny. They dissipate Within a minute or two and the water becomes absolutely clear, except for a bubble or two on the side of the glass. There is absolutely no foreign taste or any kind of smell whatsoever. I had the water tested for contaminants and there is absolutely none.

The formation of tiny bubbles that make the water look cloudy until the bubbles rise to the surface and collapse is completely normal when filling a glass from a faucet. There are a number of phenomena that cause this such as a change in pressure, nucleation sites in the glass, etc. Hearing the sound of a significant amount of air/gas coming out of the faucet is a different thing altogether.

This thread is better (more interesting) than most TV shows! It's like a whodunit murder mystery.

 

[armylifer]

The formation of tiny bubbles that make the water look cloudy until the bubbles rise to the surface and collapse is completely normal when filling a glass from a faucet. There are a number of phenomena that cause this such as a change in pressure, nucleation sites in the glass, etc. Hearing the sound of a significant amount of air/gas coming out of the faucet is a different thing altogether.

This thread is better (more interesting) than most TV shows! It's like a whodunit murder mystery.

The funny thing about the water is that it is only cloudy from the tap when the air is present. If there is no air buildup in the pipes, then the water comes out completely clear. turn off the tap and come back a couple hours later and pour another glass of water, if air is not built up in the lines, then the water still comes out completely clear.

BTW, in case anyone is interested, here is a picture of the well head a few minutes ago.

 

[armylifer]

Where the line goes down the well it is connected to a fitting on the side of the well casing. It is called a pitless adapter. There is an o- ring in the connection. If the check valve that is at the pump leaks a little ,it can suck air in at the pitless adapter.
Seen it many times.

There is a check valve in the top of the pump usually. It is not very good quality. Most pump installers put a good check valve on top of the pump.
You can drop an ice cube down the well to check the water level. Should be about one second per ten feet.

Looking at the picture I posted of the well head, Can you tell me where the pitless adapter is? It is my belief that the wiring for the well pump is located in the white PVC pipe that is connected to the wellhead. I have never taken the top off the well head because I was advised not to by my general contractor friend. I really don't want to doubt anything that he has told me but he is not a well driller, he subcontracts them when he builds houses around here. He has built many of them through the years so I guess he know something. See post #68 for a picture of the well head.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The pitless adapter will be 3' or so down in the ground connected to the well casing.
And yes the PVC pipe is just the wiring.
You can safely and easily pull the cover off the well head and have a look down in there.

 

[armylifer]

The pitless adapter will be 3' or so down in the ground connected to the well casing.
And yes the PVC pipe is just the wiring.
You can safely and easily pull the cover off the well head and have a look down in there.

Thank you!

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

.... Maybe my whole house water filter is failing. I hope so at least. That is the easiest thing to replace, also the cheapest.

The whole house filter is likely not the cause. I replaced mine last January, generally the filter media blows out when they're having and of life issues assuming you kept the media clean.

If air is introduced into a pressurized system it's coming from "before" the water is pressurized. If you have one check valve in the pump then il the air is coming from before the pump.

If you have a second check valve on the pressure tank then the line between the tank and pump is not pressurized when the pump is off and if the line has a leak or two that leaking point/points could draw in air as the water leaked out the pinhole.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

The pitless adapter will be 3' or so down in the ground connected to the well casing.
And yes the PVC pipe is just the wiring.
You can safely and easily pull the cover off the well head and have a look down in there.

8' to 10' is standard here in WI, below the frost line and deep enough to not get dug up (unlike my gas line).

So, yours may or may not be deeper than 3', and if it is that's not uncommon.

You might put a strap on your flashlight and any tools you use, because once they get loose of your grip they're headed for the hole....

 

[armylifer]

We seldom have a freeze in Western WA so I think that the pitless adapter would be at the depth that @NIW mentioned. I lived in WI for many years, and my siblings still live there. I know how cold it can get.

 

[Vlach7]

I have water that is naturally high in magnesium. My water is also very soft with a PH of 6.8, without treatment. I have measured levels of 6.6 on at least a couple occasions through the years. The only reason I have measured the PH of our water is to make sure the balance is correct for our hot tub. I measure the ph after a complete drain and refill of the hot tub twice per year.

Off subject, but an observation, your water is very acidic, do you know if your casing is metal all the way down? It could prematurely eat thru the casing, just something to be aware of. I have naturally soft water with a PH of 8.4, my neighbor 1/2 mi. away has a PH of 7.6. He let me buy a 1/4 share of his super well, so I trenched 1/2 a mi. put my own elect. meter on his well house, now I have plant friendly water.

 

[armylifer]

Off subject, but an observation, your water is very acidic, do you know if your casing is metal all the way down? It could prematurely eat thru the casing, just something to be aware of. I have naturally soft water with a PH of 8.4, my neighbor 1/2 mi. away has a PH of 7.6. He let me buy a 1/4 share of his super well, so I trenched 1/2 a mi. put my own elect. meter on his well house, now I have plant friendly water.

I am aware that my water is acidic. I think that my well casing is metal all the way down. The well casing is pretty thick and I expect that it would take several to many years for it to erode through. The well was drilled on Nov 1, 2002. I have the original well report. The report says that the casing is +1 foot to 82 feet depth. It does not list a lining inside the casing. It says the well was rotary drilled and lists the type of soil and depth of each change in soil composition. The report is pretty thorough and detailed. There are no screens used and there is a surface seal of bentonite to 25 feet, if that means anything. Here is a portion of the report. The other portions contain personal data and extraneous information that is probably not relevant to this thread. If any of the information below is helpful, please let me know.

 

[Vlach7]

1' casing, very impressive. If you did notice any deterioration of the metal casing, I would believe that a smaller, poss. 10" or 8" PVC might be able to fit inside. When you put a new pump in, which might be many years, have a camera dropped to asses' potential damage. My pump was replaced 25 years ago which is unusual, prob. the high PH and my metal storage tank is 40 yo with no rust.

 

[armylifer]

1' casing, very impressive. If you did notice any deterioration of the metal casing, I would believe that a smaller, poss. 10" or 8" PVC might be able to fit inside. When you put a new pump in, which might be many years, have a camera dropped to asses' potential damage. My pump was replaced 25 years ago which is unusual, prob. the high PH and my metal storage tank is 40 yo with no rust.

I think the casing is 6", not 1'. I may be reading the report wrong but that is what I see. To be clear, the casing is 6" diameter and stands 1' above ground to the depth of 82'.

 

[whatsupdoc]

Thanks, I think

When I draw water from the tap into a glass, the water looks cloudy not as if there is any real bubbles in it. The air bubbles are very very tiny. They dissipate Within a minute or two and the water becomes absolutely clear, except for a bubble or two on the side of the glass. There is absolutely no foreign taste or any kind of smell whatsoever. I had the water tested for contaminants and there is absolutely none.

Faucet aerator, its what they do.

 

[armylifer]

Faucet aerator, its what they do.

Except that I am talking about air burping out of the tap. This is an abnormal condition. Not like from a faucet aerator.