Weird loader hydraulic problem. Help me figure it out please!

[257Roberts]

I found location of the transmission strainer. It's hard to locate, so my guess is it has never been cleaned as far as I know. The cap that holds it in place is stuck. I have ordered a 26mm 6 point socket (none available locally). I am borrowing a large impact wrench from a friend to attempt to remove it.

 

[257Roberts]

I was able to remove the transmission strainer and it was clean as a whistle. Tried to order loader valve parts from Messick's but the person on the phone suggested I first try to switch the hoses on the valve, ie, put the loader arm hoses on the side that runs the bucket and vice-versa. Need to put the oil I drained out to clean the strainer, then I will try that troubleshooting step.

 

[fruitcakesa]

I'm not the OP. I've never changed any fittings on my hydraulic lines so I have not idea what it entails. I was butting in on the conversation because it raised a question for me.

I don't see how you're not opening the hydraulic system if you're taking things off the hose, and looking at my couplings I also don't see how they're easily removed and/or replaced from the hose. It's just outside my experience & current understanding.

You do "open" the system when you remove a fitting but as long as there is no pressure in the lines all that might happen is a little fluid leaks out.
The fitting is usually threaded onto the line which has hex flats to accept a wrench to hold things steady while you remove the fitting,
Replacing the fitting is quick so there is minimal fluid loss and the system will self bleed back to the reservoir.

 

[257Roberts]

I attached a gauge to one of the quick disconnect ports. 2400 PSI. So, no problem with the pump. I then removed all lines and put the loader valve on the bench and disassembled the side that controls the loader boom. I found one small spring in the "float" section of the valve that is near the detent balls that was bent and twisted badly. Everything else looked clean and fine. I need to replace the spring but it looks like it is part # 030 kit which is many more parts than I need. I have attached the exploded diagram and have a red arrow pointing to the needed spring. Does anyone know if just the spring can be purchased? If so, would you be kind enough to post back? Thanks in advance!

 

[Justasquid]

Just the other day I had a very similar situation happen out of nowhere. It turned out the 3 point was adjusted too high. Meaning it was bottoming out the cylinder (deadhead) This caused a similar issue to what you are experiencing. The weird thing was , it wasn’t making any noise and it was random when it would do it. I found it by raising the 3 point All the way up, then trying to manually lift the 3 point arms. You should be able to lift them about an inch or so. If you can’t lift them by hand, you need to adjust 3 point so it stops sooner. When the 3 point bottoms out, it takes away the hydraulic Pressure for other operations like loader control.

Might be something worth looking into.

 

[257Roberts]

I will check that, but loader problem manifesting itself no matter where 3 pt is positioned.

 

[DustyRusty]

I had the problem with my Pioneer couplers, that would disconnect themselves, and had to recouple them to get everything working again. My new tractor has the flat faced couplers, and I should have changed my old tractor over to them a long time ago. They are so simple to use, and I haven't heard of any failures as of yet. I did hear about leaking problems with the 4 gang disconnect on the loader on the BX23S, however that was a while ago, so I can only assume that Kubota has corrected that issue.
If I were to need couplers, I would either source them at a Parker dealer, or from a Kubota dealer. There is no savings, when you find that the quality of the product fails shortly after purchase. Many times, parts come from China, and the price is good, but the quality isn't. Ever wonder what happens to parts that don't meet quality control standards? Many times, they are sold at a discount to people wanting to save some money.

 

[257Roberts]

I finally figured out my problem with the help of a local mechanic. There is a lever that actuates something inside of the 3pt lift hydraulics that tells the tractor where the hitch arms are in their travel arc. Anyway this lever was corroded stuck and making the hitch arms do all kind of wacky stuff. It also was causing the loader arms to act erratically. Once the lever was unstuck and moving freely, all of my problems went away. Now, I take care to wash under the tractor seat and lube the lever shaft with CorrosionX after I spread fertilizer of spray corrosive chemicals. I apologize for not posting this sooner when I finally figured out the problem. Anyway, thank you for everyone's help.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I finally figured out my problem with the help of a local mechanic. There is a lever that actuates something inside of the 3pt lift hydraulics that tells the tractor where the hitch arms are in their travel arc. Anyway this lever was corroded stuck and making the hitch arms do all kind of wacky stuff. It also was causing the loader arms to act erratically. Once the lever was unstuck and moving freely, all of my problems went away. Now, I take care to wash under the tractor seat and lube the lever shaft with CorrosionX after I spread fertilizer of spray corrosive chemicals. I apologize for not posting this sooner when I finally figured out the problem. Anyway, thank you for everyone's help.

Its called the position control feedback. Common issue.

Dan

 

[CoKid]

If the couplers where working before and then it stops then he put new ones on and they worked for a while then stopped, it may not be the couplers themselves. He said it had been drained and refilled and new couplers put on maybe they did not get all the crud in the lines out. I would see if you can clean the new connectors and flush the system before putting the connectors back on and see if that makes any difference, fluid should be cheaper than parts.

 

[TheOldHokie]

If the couplers where working before and then it stops then he put new ones on and they worked for a while then stopped, it may not be the couplers themselves. He said it had been drained and refilled and new couplers put on maybe they did not get all the crud in the lines out. I would see if you can clean the new connectors and flush the system before putting the connectors back on and see if that makes any difference, fluid should be cheaper than parts.

He told you what the problem was - not the couplers or crud. Make a note of it - good chance you will see some variant of it yourself.

Dan