V2203 Injection Pump Delivery Valves Leaking - Looking for Replacement Parts

[beckbenj]

Hi All,

I'd recently purchased a KX161-2 excavator with the V2203-BH-5 engine and have noticed fuel leaking from the delivery valves on the injection pump. Reading through this website, it appears that the o-ring and/or copper gasket is likely the cause. After digging through the parts diagrams on Messick's / Coleman equipment, I'm not able to find the o-rings and copper gasket to reseal the delivery valves. After more research around on this site, it seems these same parts may be used in other tractor models such as the L4200 (previous thread here).

Is anyone able to confirm that the parts for the L4200 (also using the V2203) are compatible with the V2203-BH? The injection pump diagram on the thread I've referencing looks identical.

If so, it looks like o-ring #14611-51200 and delivery valve gasket #70000-65197 would be the correct part numbers to use?

And, is the torque value of 28.9 to 32.5 ft-lbs correct?

 

[beckbenj]

After looking in the L4200 catalogue on Coleman's, it seems the injection pump assembly part number (16454-51010) is the same pump assembly used in the KX161-2 catalogue. The component parts listed for the L4200 injection pump would be valid for the KX161-2, I believe.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes they are the same.
The one issue you'll have is you can't set the delivery curve without the proper equipment.
That's why the delivery valves have a lock on them.

 

[beckbenj]

Yes they are the same.
The one issue you'll have is you can't set the delivery curve without the proper equipment.
That's why the delivery valves have a lock on them.

Does torquing the delivery valve holders to spec not accomplish this?

It’s unclear to me how the holder can set the curve. Reading what little I’ve been able to find suggests that the curve is fixed by design (spring rate), again assuming the valve holder is properly torqued.

 

[beckbenj]

Yes they are the same.
The one issue you'll have is you can't set the delivery curve without the proper equipment.
That's why the delivery valves have a lock on them.

I now understand what you’re referring to after more research.

From the linked thread in my first post related to the L4200, the advice seemed to boil down to being careful to not disturb the internal components (i.e. rotate them) in order to preserve the fuel delivered.

Is there any other advice in order to maintain the fuel delivery?

The pump element assembly (020) plunger portion (green arrow) appears to be fixed by the rack mechanism in the pump but the barrel portion (red arrow) seems to be free to rotate.

After digging through a V2203 engine manual I've found, that barrel portion appears to have a locating slot as well (blue arrow).

So what component should I be concerned with rotating during disassembly? Just trying to get an idea on what to look out for when I disassemble.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Just don't remove #20 and it should work for you.
If you don't get the delivery valve holder (60) tightened properly that will also effect fuel delivery.

 

[beckbenj]

Just don't remove #20 and it should work for you.
If you don't get the delivery valve holder (60) tightened properly that will also effect fuel delivery.

Thanks, appreciate the feedback!

 

[beckbenj]

Just an update...I replaced the o-rings and copper crush washers. The machine ran great, idles much better now as well. Also no more fuel leaks out of the injection pump.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[sctx97]

So did you end up using the parts from the l4200? Did you run into any problems when unscrewing the delivery and changing o ring ? My l275 has a leak from the same parts you mentioned I want to take them out but don’t want to mess with the timing or fuel delivery.

 

[beckbenj]

So did you end up using the parts from the l4200? Did you run into any problems when unscrewing the delivery and changing o ring ? My l275 has a leak from the same parts you mentioned I want to take them out but don’t want to mess with the timing or fuel delivery.

I did end up using those parts, yes.

Before removing the delivery valve holders I would make sure to very thoroughly clean the top surface to make sure no dirt, etc can fall in. I used an air blow off in conjunction with a brass wire brush to knock all of the gunk off. You’ll want to also use the air blow off after loosening the delivery valve holder slightly to make sure any debris trapped in the gap between the valve holder and the injector pump body doesn’t fall in.

I did one valve at a time and would flood the open hole with diesel fuel to make sure that any debris that may have fell in got “pushed” out.

The most important part of this job is cleanliness. I would treat this area like a surgical suite and make sure you keep your hands, tools, etc clean.

Unless you take #20 out, I don’t think you can mess up the fuel delivery. And even then, #20 is keyed and should go back in the same position. Timing is not set by these valves so no concerns there.

The o-ring is easy, just use a pick and be sure not to gouge any of the machined surfaces. The old ones will likely just break off when you pull with a pick. The new ones you can roll on just like any other o-ring installation.

 

[sctx97]

I did end up using those parts, yes.

Before removing the delivery valve holders I would make sure to very thoroughly clean the top surface to make sure no dirt, etc can fall in. I used an air blow off in conjunction with a brass wire brush to knock all of the gunk off. You’ll want to also use the air blow off after loosening the delivery valve holder slightly to make sure any debris trapped in the gap between the valve holder and the injector pump body doesn’t fall in.

I did one valve at a time and would flood the open hole with diesel fuel to make sure that any debris that may have fell in got “pushed” out.

The most important part of this job is cleanliness. I would treat this area like a surgical suite and make sure you keep your hands, tools, etc clean.

Unless you take #20 out, I don’t think you can mess up the fuel delivery. And even then, #20 is keyed and should go back in the same position. Timing is not set by these valves so no concerns there.

The o-ring is easy, just use a pick and be sure not to gouge any of the machined surfaces. The old ones will likely just break off when you pull with a pick. The new ones you can roll on just like any other o-ring installation.

Thanks for the quick response and the advice is much appreciated. I’ll be following these steps here in the next couple days when I get parts.