Upper link arm vibrating loose.

[Tattnall Guy]

Help please. I just received my landpride cutter a few days ago. A couple problems with the hitch, figured out one by searching the forum. Second I cant find an answer. I thing I having a problem with my upper link arm. From the tractor to the top of the Bush Hog. I get everything set up and I go cutting away. The arm/bar has a cylinder that turns to tight the slack so you can lift the rear of the attachment. Screw type cylinder keeps vibrating loose. I have to continually turn around and tighten it. Tractor is a BX25D. What am I doing wrong.

Thanks for any help,

Daniel

 

[85Hokie]

Help please. I just received my landpride cutter a few days ago. A couple problems with the hitch, figured out one by searching the forum. Second I cant find an answer. I thing I having a problem with my upper link arm. From the tractor to the top of the Bush Hog. I get everything set up and I go cutting away. The arm/bar has a cylinder that turns to tight the slack so you can lift the rear of the attachment. Screw type cylinder keeps vibrating loose. I have to continually turn around and tighten it. Tractor is a BX25D. What am I doing wrong.

Thanks for any help,

Daniel

there should be a keeper "nut" on it - with a tang to hold it from vibrating loose.

http://www.nutrac.info/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/0322-top-link-a.jpg

see what i am talking about ?

 

[Tattnall Guy]

That's the bar, but mine has a hex nut to keep it from loosing, but the nut loosens as well. The nut was on the side close to the back of the tractor, it didn't work there so I tuned the bar around that didn't work either.

 

[Tattnall Guy]

I found this photo of my hitch on ebay. It shows the arm.

 

[OklahomaBill]

The hex nut should be tightened up firmly against the adjuster with a wrench. It works as a jam nut becaused it is jammed tightly up against the adjuster to jam it in place.

The top link is oriented correctly in your picture. Nut close to implement according to the parts diagram in the "book"

 

[Stubbyie]

Agree with other posters.

However, I tend to keep the 'nut' on the 3-point top-link on the tractor end of the assembly, just so gravity is working 'for' instead of 'against' me.

Doubt it matters much unless your particular top-link has different size pin ends: some do; I've run across several on different model tractors.

Gotta tighten that nut with a wrench. My Category-1 hex [jam] nut happens to be 1-1/4-inch across the flats. I keep a cheap wrench aboard the tractor just so it's handy; cheap so that when lost I'm not obligated to find it. But I've also seen different sizes in use. Some instead of a hex nut have a tear-drop shaped 1/4-in thick "nut"---looks sort of like half a wing nut.

Also keep a short piece or two of cheater pipe handy. When tightening that nut use a cheater through the square (or loop or pin) handle of the top link to hold back-up against the wrench action. This way you get it tight enough to hold.

That nut has to be really tight to hold. I've seen some that had to have a pipe wrench used on both the body of the 3-point tube and on the nut in order to get it--the nut--tight enough to reliably hold against vibrating loose. I don't like pipe wrenches in this application because it mars the surfaces and makes sharp slivers and burrs that tear up hands or gloves.

If by chance your hex nut is beat up or simply loose for some reason, unscrew the "right-handed" threaded shaft of your 3-point and take it with you when looking for a replacement nut. Try Tractor Supply. All you need is a basic Grade-2 nut. Get a couple and let one ride along on the threaded shank until it's someday needed. I put a washer on mine just so the nut has a bit larger surface area to put pressure on instead of being directly against the butt end of the 3-point top link tube.

Please post back your continuing experiences so we may all learn.

 

[OklahomaBill]

Re: Upper link arm vibrating loose. For what its worth

A quality 6 inch adjustable wrench will open just wide enough to fit the jam nut and will store neatly in most under seat tool boxes.

 

[85Hokie]

I found this photo of my hitch on ebay. It shows the arm.

Personally I would take that nut off, weld an ear onto it and that way I dont have to find the wrench all the time.

Go by your local high school's ag shop - bet they can weld that nut up with something that can be a permanent wrench - wont cost you much if at all.
We around these parts always try to help the community when they ask.

 

[Tattnall Guy]

I bush hogged about 5 more acres without a problem. I took a big wrench and really tighten the hex nut. It was magic. I put the wrench in the back of the seat where the manual goes. Thanks so much for the help guys (or gals).

Daniel

 

[ShaunRH]

A good permanent wrench is to get an old box end wrench from your stash, or some garage sale or buy a cheap new one. You cut a groove in the box of the wrench the size of the diameter of the threaded shaft the nut is on. Put the box end on the nut and weld the opening closed, also welding the wrench to the nut. Cut off the other end of the box wrench where you feel comfortable with the length, grind the cut smooth and edge free. You now have a welded on nut wrench.

If you're good with welding, you can weld all the surfaces of the box of the wrench to the nut, not just the opening.

You can avoid cutting the wrench by disassembling the turnbuckle and sliding the wrench on the right threads, but you need to be pretty good at welding not to mess up the threads welding that close into them.