Upcoming 50 hr maintenance

[CKNPRO]

So it is about time for me to be considering what all I need to do for the 50 hr maintenance. I don't intend on hiring it done, and have all the tools and experience to do it myself I figure. I know oil/filter change is in order, as well as all filters. Synthetic or dino-juice?
What else is a "good idea?" I have heard of folks swapping hydro-fluid at this time. I can see the value there. If so, is the "super fluid" worth the extra expense?
Anything else to consider?
And to save time, I do know how to RTFM. I also know that many manual recommendations are just that. Experience carries weight with me as well.

Of course I will change the blinker fluid....duuuhhh.

 

[greg86z28]

Is this on your L4701? I would follow what the operators manual says (it'll be in the back somewhere).

On my B2601, it was engine oil, engine oil filter and both hydrostatic system filters (but not the hydraulic fluid). There are a variety of other check list items like greasing various points on the tractor and checking safety switches.

I purchase all my filters (car, tractor, whatever) from the respective dealer. The oil just needs to meet whatever specification is in the manual. You could also ask the dealer.

 

[michigander]

oil I'm running dino juice yearly oil change with a few hrs. , others will say synthetic.

blinker fluid use synthetic for sure.

 

[NCL4701]

I may not be the best example, but for mine I just went through the instructions carefully, made a shopping list, then called the dealership and told them I needed the stuff for the 50 hour service. Went by a few hours later and they had a box of stuff waiting for me. Checked it against my list and they matched up so I paid them and headed home. Took my time going through everything step by step and getting familiar with the various parts of the machine. I’ve worked on older cars and old gas tractors for many years but never touched a diesel anything. If you have basic tools, moderate mechanical ability, can follow directions, and don’t get in a hurry it isn’t a big deal.

I’ll leave the oil and grease debate to others. I just run what Kubota recommends. I know just enough about petroleum chemistry to know I don’t know anything.

 

[RCW]

The 50-hour service question.....oh my.....

I did motor oil and filter as specified.

I used dino-oil this trip...harkens back to my Harley-Davidson days, and need more hours before switching to Synthetic.... I think it's BS....

I'm in the cold northeast..... by the next winter had 5w-40 Rotella T6...wonderful difference for cold starts. Doubt it's an issue in Alabama.

I changed HST fluid also. 10+ years ago, some/all HST tractors called for fluid change at 50 hours, so I'm told. Was later taken out. I used SUDT2, and noticed a significant reduction in HST whine. Not an issue for a geared tractor, maybe same for GST.

In 400+ hours, I've changed the HST fluid 3 times. Each time I notice the hydrostatic system has less whine.

I also changed front axle. Used SUDT2 there also. My axle was low when new, and I topped it off.

While bought new, my tractor sat on a yard for a while, so I wanted to get all moisture out of both the HST and axle. Probably not an issue in the current market....

Remember the Muffler Bearing needs to be changed at 75 hours....it's off-cycle...

 

[forky]

Yep, it's really amazing how prepared you can become by checking out the videos and being prepared. It's almost like you did the service before, when you actually start the process. Fluid is cheap when you think about it.....I'm going to be changing the udt2 at 50 hours because it's in the best interest of my tractor..in my opinion. No wrestle match with the filters and complete confidence that I'm good to go! Guess that's why my stuff last longer than other folks stuff does.

 

[Russell King]

Just be sure you use diesel rated engine oil. I would use conventional oil in the engine until after the break in period is over just to avoid any possible problem with the rings not seating properly.

 

[kubotafreak]

I might suggest tightening lug nuts, wheel disks, loader subframe bolts, and any other implement added to the machine. I would also jack the front end up, and just check the front axle pivot to make sure it doesn't have too much free play front to back. There is a zerk for each mount. The front has a plug that needs to be removed before greasing. The rear only takes a few pumps, too much and the grease finds a new home.

 

[whitetiger]

Check / tighten the cooling system hose clamps.

 

[random]

I can't seem to find the video anymore - but there's one where a guy is doing 400-hour maintenance, which includes all the other intervals as well, so he broke it up into a 50, 100, etc. I found that one quite useful.

If I find it again I'll share the link