Udt vs super udt

[Bulldog]

I haven't had mine long enough to need to change it. I literally just got my first orange tractor a few months ago (20 hours on it). I was planning to, but then saw that it was only UDT compliant. Kind of figured they just didn't update or bother testing to SUDT2 standards (whatever they are). Amsoil seems to be very conservative in what they promise and then over deliver. I was hoping to run into someone on here that had some experience using it. What kind of difference did you notice? Also, what are you putting in the crankcase?

Difference was it is quieter than before and smoother to operate. Biggest difference was how much cooler the trans temps were. On my L the trans hump sticks up right between your legs and summer heat was bad. In heavy grass with 6' finish mower it was up to 70* cooler.

Winter time is a dream. I barely can tell any difference in it at all. No jerking or whining, operates just like it does in warm weather. And I use mine every day during the winter feeding cows.

Engine oil I use the 5w30 Series 3000 heavy duty diesel oil. Been in it year round since the first change. Cost more than others but fuel savings alone will pay for the oil. Or I guess I should say it does for me but I use a lot more fuel than average home owner does. I change it once a year, no matter the hrs.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Difference was it is quieter than before and smoother to operate. Biggest difference was how much cooler the trans temps were. On my L the trans hump sticks up right between your legs and summer heat was bad. In heavy grass with 6' finish mower it was up to 70* cooler.

Winter time is a dream. I barely can tell any difference in it at all. No jerking or whining, operates just like it does in warm weather. And I use mine every day during the winter feeding cows.

Engine oil I use the 5w30 Series 3000 heavy duty diesel oil. Been in it year round since the first change. Cost more than others but fuel savings alone will pay for the oil. Or I guess I should say it does for me but I use a lot more fuel than average home owner does. I change it once a year, no matter the hrs.

Change both mine yearly as well but Shell Rotella T6 and I back mine up with oil analysis too. Seems to work just peachy for me.

 

[dochsml]

Difference was it is quieter than before and smoother to operate. Biggest difference was how much cooler the trans temps were. On my L the trans hump sticks up right between your legs and summer heat was bad. In heavy grass with 6' finish mower it was up to 70* cooler.

Winter time is a dream. I barely can tell any difference in it at all. No jerking or whining, operates just like it does in warm weather. And I use mine every day during the winter feeding cows.

Engine oil I use the 5w30 Series 3000 heavy duty diesel oil. Been in it year round since the first change. Cost more than others but fuel savings alone will pay for the oil. Or I guess I should say it does for me but I use a lot more fuel than average home owner does. I change it once a year, no matter the hrs.

I run series 3000 5w30 in my 24v Cummins. Installed a dual bypass kit on it and haven’t changed the oil in over 10 years. I’ll probably have to pick something else for the tractor though. I think it calls for CJ-4. When it comes time, I’ll do the hydraulics

 

[GeoHorn]

Good chance your 96 had SUDT fluid in it instead of UDT. My 00 had this in it from the factory. Don't even think it's around any more and has been long since been replaced by the more advanced SUDT2.

Your dealer is right in the fact that UDT will work in your climate and SUDT2 in better suited for cold weather. But they failed to mention that SUDT2 is also better for hotter climate conditions because it will keep things cooler in the summer heat which is probably a bigger concern for you.

All around you'll get better performance and protection summer and/or winter by using SUDT2. Even on older equipment it has a advantage.

Thanks for those comments. I’ve located the selling-dealer who is still in business in the Baytown Tx area and I’ll contact them to see if they still have the 50-hr service record and if it mentions what was used.

I lean toward believing you are correct as I recently obtained the correct/genuine OM for this tractor and they actually state on pg 44 the M4700 and M5400 original transmission and hydraulic fluid is “Super UDT”. Thanks.

Yep, the local “Ewald Kubota” dealer misled me on this I think. They’re getting this UDT back in an exchange.

 

[Bulldog]

I run series 3000 5w30 in my 24v Cummins. Installed a dual bypass kit on it and haven’t changed the oil in over 10 years. I’ll probably have to pick something else for the tractor though. I think it calls for CJ-4. When it comes time, I’ll do the hydraulics

The Max duty 5w30 is CJ-4 rated. Might be a good choice for you. I have had good luck with 5w30 in all my Kubota's. I guess I should say in all my diesels, not just the Kubota.

 

[GeoHorn]

The Max duty 5w30 is CJ-4 rated. Might be a good choice for you. I have had good luck with 5w30 in all my Kubota's. I guess I should say in all my diesels, not just the Kubota.

As an unusual note, I also have a Kubota RTV-X900 and they curiously specify that CJ is not to be used for that unit. Apparently it’s a one-of-a-kind oil in that it does not supersede as readily as other subsequently-enumerated oils do.
They specify ‘CF or higher” but then warn against CJ (even tho’ that is higher.)

Here’s a quote: “ EGR: Exhaust Gas Re-circulation
A The CJ-4 engine oil is intended for DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) type engines, and cannot be used on this vehicle.”

Never ran into that before and was always told any subsequent can substitute for an earlier spec.

 

[dochsml]

The Max duty 5w30 is CJ-4 rated. Might be a good choice for you. I have had good luck with 5w30 in all my Kubota's. I guess I should say in all my diesels, not just the Kubota.

To me, it makes sense to go with a lighter oil if it isn’t going to break down. Less power robbed from moving fluids around. Lots of old superstitions out there about oil from the straight weight days.

 

[Bulldog]

As an unusual note, I also have a Kubota RTV-X900 and they curiously specify that CJ is not to be used for that unit. Apparently it’s a one-of-a-kind oil in that it does not supersede as readily as other subsequently-enumerated oils do.
They specify ‘CF or higher” but then warn against CJ (even tho’ that is higher.)

Here’s a quote: “ EGR: Exhaust Gas Re-circulation
A The CJ-4 engine oil is intended for DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) type engines, and cannot be used on this vehicle.”

Never ran into that before and was always told any subsequent can substitute for an earlier spec.

Never seen that before either. Kind of arguing with itself.

This sounds like it would be a good place for the series 3000 5w30 like I run.

 

[Bulldog]

To me, it makes sense to go with a lighter oil if it isn’t going to break down. Less power robbed from moving fluids around. Lots of old superstitions out there about oil from the straight weight days.

I really like the 5w30 in these engines. To me there's no need for 15w40. It just robs power and burns more fuel.

 

[dlundblad]

Somewhat off topic, but can anyone confirm that UDT carries approvals for other manufacturers? Specifically Ford.

I thought UDT had them listed on the gallon jugs. I have some UDT2 gallons that say nothing.

 

[dlundblad]

Never seen that before either. Kind of arguing with itself.

This sounds like it would be a good place for the series 3000 5w30 like I run.

I agree it makes no sense. I wouldnt pay any attention to it. CF is an old old spec and yet Kubota still continues to put it in their manuals to this day. Mobil 1 0w40 carries that spec by the way. Current diesel oils only carry the superceding specs.

Speaking of the Japanese and their BS oil specs, my mom has a 2015 4Runner. The manual specifically says to use 0w20. A 5w20 can be used if 0w20 isn’t available, but a 0w20 must be used next time. Also, if the vehicle is used for towing, you can go up a weight. Does that mean 0w30 or 5w30? Lol.

I use 5w30.

 

[Bulldog]

I agree it makes no sense. I wouldnt pay any attention to it. CF is an old old spec and yet Kubota still continues to put it in their manuals to this day. Mobil 1 0w40 carries that spec by the way. Current diesel oils only carry the superceding specs.

Speaking of the Japanese and their BS oil specs, my mom has a 2015 4Runner. The manual specifically says to use 0w20. A 5w20 can be used if 0w20 isn’t available, but a 0w20 must be used next time. Also, if the vehicle is used for towing, you can go up a weight. Does that mean 0w30 or 5w30? Lol.

I use 5w30.

That leaves a lot of bare space on the plate so if something happens they can say you used the wrong oil and deny warranty claims. Looks like it would be easier to just say what needs to be used and leave it at that.

 

[GeoHorn]

That leaves a lot of bare space on the plate so if something happens they can say you used the wrong oil and deny warranty claims. Looks like it would be easier to just say what needs to be used and leave it at that.

That’s exactly what they do. They state to use CF or higher except not to use CJ. Simple enough, actually.