Type of trailer?
- Thread starter Grimloktt
- Start date
How much does your tractor and implements you will haul with it weigh?
How much does the trailer weigh? You just figured out the minimum GVW rating of the trailer you need. Do not buy a trailer that can haul 4,000 pounds and put 3,950 pounds on it. Allow some margin for a heavier than expected load.
How long is the tractor with bucket, backhoe, wood splitter, bush hog, or when including your longest other attachment? I agree with the post above saying you should add at least 4 extra feet of trailer length to best fit your tractor. It allows for changing positions for proper weight balance
How is the weight distribution over the weight of the trailer axle when the trailer sits on it?
Do you want a beaver tail, tilt trailer, or ramps? Backhoes are low enough they may drag on the pavement when loading.
Buying a 53' trailer when you only need a 14' trailer (except for moving it) is better than buying a 14' trailer when you need a 22' long trailer.
Look at your trucks GVWR then add the trailers GVWR. Stay below 26,001 pounds to avoid federal commercial truck laws. It does not matter if your truck weighs 50 pounds and the trailer weighs 26 pounds. The GVWR ratings combined are what you need to look at not the actual truck and trailer weight. If your truck is rated at 10,500 pounds (like mine) and your trailer is rated at 15,000 pounds you will be under that limit by 501 pounds. If my truck GVWR of 10,500 is added to a trailer GVWR of 16,000 I now have to act like I am a commercial truck driver because of the combined weight ratings alone. This is one reason some guys prefer older trucks to new ones. The newer trucks have a higher GVWR rating which makes it harder to tow a slightly heavier trailer legally.
How much does the trailer weigh? You just figured out the minimum GVW rating of the trailer you need. Do not buy a trailer that can haul 4,000 pounds and put 3,950 pounds on it. Allow some margin for a heavier than expected load.
How long is the tractor with bucket, backhoe, wood splitter, bush hog, or when including your longest other attachment? I agree with the post above saying you should add at least 4 extra feet of trailer length to best fit your tractor. It allows for changing positions for proper weight balance
How is the weight distribution over the weight of the trailer axle when the trailer sits on it?
Do you want a beaver tail, tilt trailer, or ramps? Backhoes are low enough they may drag on the pavement when loading.
Buying a 53' trailer when you only need a 14' trailer (except for moving it) is better than buying a 14' trailer when you need a 22' long trailer.
Look at your trucks GVWR then add the trailers GVWR. Stay below 26,001 pounds to avoid federal commercial truck laws. It does not matter if your truck weighs 50 pounds and the trailer weighs 26 pounds. The GVWR ratings combined are what you need to look at not the actual truck and trailer weight. If your truck is rated at 10,500 pounds (like mine) and your trailer is rated at 15,000 pounds you will be under that limit by 501 pounds. If my truck GVWR of 10,500 is added to a trailer GVWR of 16,000 I now have to act like I am a commercial truck driver because of the combined weight ratings alone. This is one reason some guys prefer older trucks to new ones. The newer trucks have a higher GVWR rating which makes it harder to tow a slightly heavier trailer legally.
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I tow with a single axle trailer with no brakes. A B2601 isn't all that heavy. Laws in your locality may be different.
I would probably look to an equipment trailer. To me the difference is that a car trailer usually has no sides, and often doesn't have a solid deck - just tracks for car wheels. Which means your implements would fall through. A trailer with sides I think is more useful - removable sides would be nice but not critical.
The next question is ramps. I'm not a fan of fold up ramps, I feel like they create a lot of drag. I'd get pull out ramps personally. I think equipment trailers often have a big gate that folds up at the back. Fine for local transport, not much good on the highway in my opinion.
You need lots of good strong tie down points, good axles, and a well made trailer with heavy gauge steel and plenty of it. Some sort of tilt or dove tail or other way to get your tractor on more easily is a bonus.
The features are probably more important than the type of trailer.
I would probably look to an equipment trailer. To me the difference is that a car trailer usually has no sides, and often doesn't have a solid deck - just tracks for car wheels. Which means your implements would fall through. A trailer with sides I think is more useful - removable sides would be nice but not critical.
The next question is ramps. I'm not a fan of fold up ramps, I feel like they create a lot of drag. I'd get pull out ramps personally. I think equipment trailers often have a big gate that folds up at the back. Fine for local transport, not much good on the highway in my opinion.
You need lots of good strong tie down points, good axles, and a well made trailer with heavy gauge steel and plenty of it. Some sort of tilt or dove tail or other way to get your tractor on more easily is a bonus.
The features are probably more important than the type of trailer.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
"stay below 26,001 pounds to avoid federal commercial truck laws."
Not necessarily so!
As I understand it, the 26,001 pound limitation is applicable ONLY if in commercial use.
If you are towing for private use, and towing with a registered POV, and a registered POV trailer, then commercial limitations do not apply.
I have a 14K equipment trailer, (13,000 lb. total with L48, and misc. stuff) and it is towed with my POV, but only for personal use.
As a comparison: Most Class A motor homes are well over 26,001 pounds, but a CDL is not required, because they are not commercial vehicles.
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It depends on what you use to pull it with. I like 2 axle equipment trailers with brakes on both axles, but if you don't have a truck then you should make a friend with one that does. Twenty foot is a nice length with 10K hauling capacity is what I have and find very useful. My truck is only a Chevy Colorado therefore, I don't drive on interstates, also use sway bar links on the trailer, and filled the air bags to 50 PSI. But the bigger trailer did come in handy when my brother got his L3240 tractor(And used his 1500HD truck for haul it from Iowa). Trailer brake controller I would consider mandatory as surge brake setups suck in my opinion on trailers. Tie down points are very important as well on the trailer and also get a tool box for chains and tie downs. I like ramps that side into the back(or side) of the trailer. Aluminum is nice for the corrosion resistance but they do not like rough roads(welds break) and are about twice the cost(have not priced one lately). Some hate powder coating on a trailer but, I prefer it, as long as it was done right. Also verify the tires are new and not retreads(dads fifth wheel came with them, and had to replace them all within 3 years(under 10k miles) as the tires came apart. Southern states are usually cheaper to buy a trailer as that is where they are made(Texas for trailers and Indiana for campers). So consider buying one down south and find something to haul to get you home. Learn how to load a trailer(wheel cocks, parking brake usage, a stick to apply the service brakes). Also, cross the safety chains and use dielectric grease in the 7 way plug in.
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Depending on how far and what all plan to haul…going across town or across the state(s)…I have a 20’ utility trailer I originally used with my BX and B. I now also have an equipment trailer. I’ve lost one tire so far towing, and I’ll not own another on road trailer that doesn’t have a tandem axle (both are tandem axle and I was lucky to have a second axle when the tire separated). Personally I like the deck over axle for loading stuff from the side (I would not buy another utility trailer…I’d rather have a deck over with removeable sides that could set in the pockets if sides where needed. If you really in need the space for the tractor, depending on your uses I think a dump trailer that the tractor could be hauled in would be convenient. If parking space is not an issue, I’d get longer than you think you need, a b size machine with front loader and an implement out back will fill a small trailer pretty quick. If you have a MMM think about the ramps / dovetail necessity and also be aware of your total width if will have fenders above the deck. Again I am very biased but an equipment trailer (deck over) with the fold down ramps / knee kickers would be my first choice. Those are my thoughts.
I have an enclosed car trailer for my B2601. With backhoe and loader I still have some room to walk in the 20+ foot box. With this trailer, I can keep the tractor out of the weather and out of sight both at home or on a job site.
There is a guy moving a B2601 on YouTube with a PJ (I think) tilt trailer. Very nice set up in my opinion. Pretty much idiot proof.
Ive got a 16 foot Eq trailer. Moves my BX23S with backhoe or whatever else I put on the back nicely. Would not want any longer or shorter. JMHO YMMV
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
I also vote for go bigger than you currently need.
I will however point out that I bought an equipment trailer with sides and I don't think I would do that again.
As a matter of fact I may cut my sides off this summer.
If you ever want to load a pallet or misc. equipment with pallet forks, the sides get in the way.
Strategically placed stake pockets will provide tie down points on the next trailer.
My next trailer will not have sides, will have 2 (7K) axles (maybe 10K), be at least 22 ft (possibly longer)
I will however point out that I bought an equipment trailer with sides and I don't think I would do that again.
As a matter of fact I may cut my sides off this summer.
If you ever want to load a pallet or misc. equipment with pallet forks, the sides get in the way.
Strategically placed stake pockets will provide tie down points on the next trailer.
My next trailer will not have sides, will have 2 (7K) axles (maybe 10K), be at least 22 ft (possibly longer)
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I'd suggest purchase what you need for your current situation. As life goes on and things change, once again get what you need at that time. Same principle as beginning with a "starter home".
Luckily, I bought it pre Covid in 2019. It was $2800 new. The same trailer now is $4200 new. I also bought the lumber for the sides in 2019 before prices skyrocketed.
mcmxi
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25DLB
So true.
When I bought a 22ft MidSota equipment trailer (15k GVWR) two years ago I figured I was done buying trailers. Nope! I like that MidSota but tomorrow I'm looking at a PJ 22ft deckover hydraulic tilt trailer. I really hope this is it for trailers.