It can also be used to shift ( off set ) the implement closer to one side or the other. Like others have said just keep clear of the tires.So the turn buckle is for the swing. I will snug them up to see if I see a difference. Thanks for the replies.
Not trying to hijack the thread…I actually gave a guy $10 for this thing to keep the arms out of the tires while I didn’t have anything on the 3-pt. Plus the rust was a perfect color match.It can also be used to shift ( off set ) the implement closer to one side or the other. Like others have said just keep clear of the tires.
they call it a draw bar and the locks are missing which would stop the rotation for you.Not trying to hijack the thread…I actually gave a guy $10 for this thing to keep the arms out of the tires while I didn’t have anything on the 3-pt. Plus the rust was a perfect color match.
What is it called and what is it used for? I though hitch balls but it rotates…
Ahh. Thank you!they call it a draw bar and the locks are missing which would stop the rotation for you.
locks can be bought seperately and are cheap.
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Most Kubotas have a draw bar rigidly mounted under the rear axle.they call it a draw bar and the locks are missing which would stop the rotation for you.
locks can be bought seperately and are cheap.
well worth the $10... can add balls, slip hooks, grip hooks, clevis pins (twisted or straight), etc...
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Dangerous because that drawbar swings back and forth on the lower arms? I was considering making a 3-pt triangle hitch to move trailers around with. Are those better because they have a connection at the top link?Most Kubotas have a draw bar rigidly mounted under the rear axle.
the drawbar in question was used for trailer tongues that have a clevis attachment to the drawbar and generally were stable front to rear with a tire at all four corners.
it is somewhat dangerous to use this drawbar on the three point hitch to move two wheeled objects.
Have read about that to off set. As loose mine are I don’t see how. I’ll tighten them up this week and see how it goes. I’ll be back to post my findings. Thanks.It can also be used to shift ( off set ) the implement closer to one side or the other. Like others have said just keep clear of the tires.
Don’t have big rocks to deal with. No snow blower. Have a 4 foot pusher on order for winter. The back blade will be for scraping behind me while pushing and also for ballast. Need to add some weight to the blade though. Thanks for the reply.bearcatrp...... at least keep them tight enough to keep the lift arms / implement away from damaging wheels if they swing.
Next using your grey matter comes into play. Consider what implement you are using. On a small tractor think about a single mould board plow in a rocky field. IF it hits a rock, allowing some movement helps saves busting mould boards AND transfers less of a shock to the tractor and the operator when a rock/stump is hit. If your land has no rocks or stumps no worry. (kinder / softer approach)
OR if you are using a snowblower on smooth / frozen / paved busy parking lots then having it tighter may just save you a OMG moment of the blower bumping over and hitting that parked car you are edging against. (more control)
So it takes a little brain power on what implement in what situation re: settings.
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I must admit I have used this type of draw bar to move my landscape trailer with and without a load of firewood. Dragged logs from the wooded area up to the house and then used the same bar and chains to lift logs for easier cutting. It is handy to have.Ahh probably dangerous because your moment of force from the hitch if it’s above the axle and if at an angle (while turning) has a greater chance of pushing the tractor over?
That is part of it but the main problem is there isn’t any thing that holds the 3PH down.Ahh probably dangerous because your moment of force from the hitch if it’s above the axle and if at an angle (while turning) has a greater chance of pushing the tractor over?
Thanks for posting this. I like this design a lot better than some of the other cheaper trailer movers. While most of what I wanted to do with one is push trailers into their tight parking spots and grab them out to hook to the truck, all on flat ground, I can’t say I wouldn’t have used it for pulling a trailer down to the barn with stuff in it, and we have a lot of elevation changes here in the hills. I’ll make sure to include the option to chain it to down to the drawbar.That is part of it but the main problem is there isn’t any thing that holds the 3PH down.
Moving an empt trailer is probably ok and safe. But if the load on a two wheel trailer moved and loaded the trailer behind the axle the tongue would force the 3PH arms up and the tractor case could be cracked. Driving a trailer across hills and dips can also cause the tongue to move upwards in the wrong situation.
They do make a top link attachment to convert the drawbar into a tow bar (limits rotation of drawbar) and also trailer movers but you still shouldn’t tow a loaded trailer with them until you have it chained to the stationary draw bar to limit the upward movement of the 3PH.
Here is a link to an example
King Kutter. 3-PT. HEAVY DUTY TRAILER MOVER W GN BALL
3-PT. HEAVY DUTY TRAILER MOVER W GN BALLwww.kingkutter.com
the black plate is moved from the shipping position to the hole in the drawbar. The chain is long enough and will allow you to pick up the trailer tongue
I like these for the three point drawbar barks to add a third point and a 2" reciver.Not trying to hijack the thread…I actually gave a guy $10 for this thing to keep the arms out of the tires while I didn’t have anything on the 3-pt. Plus the rust was a perfect color match.
What is it called and what is it used for? I though hitch balls but it rotates…
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