Truck, trailer, tractor towing questions confused

[KennedyFarmer]

Not sure if this is the right place. I have a L3901 I would be interested in towing it about 20 miles away also incase I need service etc. Will a Chevy 1500 pickup work to tow the tractor with attachments? Just a tiller and some lighter soil implements maybe the BH77 backhoe. What size trailer would I need etc? Can it be towed with just a normal ball hitch setup? Or do you need a fifth wheel setup? Do I need a more heavy duty truck?
Other question I have is what is the proper way to secure the tractor to a trailer that doesn't damage anything?

I like to do things the right way vs the half assed way.

 

[Bulldog]

Biggest thing is get the proper trailer. I suggest at least a 10k rating with brakes on both axles. 20' with dove tail will work very nice with that size machine.

Yes a 1500 will work but remember to be careful because it will probably be maxed out.

Get a hitch and ball rated for the weight. I have a hitch from Northern tool that's rated for 20k and 2k tongue weight. I looked and found a 2" ball rated for 10k.

If you plan to haul a lot you may want to think of a 3/4 ton and a gooseneck trailer. The truck itself will handle pulling better and gooseneck trailers are much smoother and safer. If this is a every once in a while haul you should be okay. If it's a daily haul a bigger truck and trailer would be a nice upgrade.

Securing the load. There will be different opinions on that. Chains and binders are the strongest but big ratchet straps are a method of choice for many. Might want to check your local regulations before you make that decision. Hope this helped.

 

[rjcorazza]

Don't know how many implements you will be trying to haul at once, but at 2700 lbs (no loader or implements) a 7k trailer should be well within specs. That said, I towed my l3410 with loader for years on a 7k trailer and it was hard service on the trailer. I should have gone with a 10k trailer, which also are generally equipped with the heavy duty ramps. The standard 7k landscape trailer will usually come with the light duty mower tailgate that will not support your machine without jumping through hoops.
As far as the truck is concerned, does it have factory towing? Look up the specs, but your 1500 will likely handle it. I personally use (4) 3k ratcheting web straps, but as has been mentioned, you may wish to look into the legal requirements. I don't profess to know the securing requirements for non commercial loads (if there is even a difference) but I suspect some loads require chains and tighteners.
My ideal setup for towing a tractor is a 10k trailer, factory tow options (integrated brake controller) and a 3/4 T minimum truck. I am shopping for the trailer now to complete my setup.

 

[Dave_eng]

My response does not deal with your question re trailers but may give you another option.
I drive my tractor 19 miles to my cottage to do work. The time is a bit over and hour and 15 minutes. I try and pick a time when traffic will not be too heavy and it works out well. I used to do it with an old Nuffield 465 but now have an M7040.
Also there are people around who will move machinery on their trailers for a modest amount of cash.
Getting your own trailer with brakes and keeping it maintained so it is ready to go when you need it is a not insignificant expense plus others will be asking to borrow it
Dave m7040

 

[KeithG]

I have a B2710 with an FEL and Woods 7.5ft backhoe and tow it with a dual axle (9,900lbs per axle rating, 19,800lbs total) MidAtlantic deck over 20ft trailer (16ft flat, 4ft dove tail). Trailer also has electric brakes. I think the trailer weighs 2,200lbs. Trailer cost $3,500 new here in NH many years ago, and I saw far less capable trailers selling for over $6,000. Search and you will find a good trailer.

I had a Ford F250 and towed it with 10,000lb solid hitch that went into the factory towing frame on the F250 which was rated for 10,000lbs.

I use 4 5/16" chains and 4 ratcheting binders with the chains connected to hooks on the FEL and steel loops on the backhoe frame.

Since then I have bought a Ford F150 eco-boost that has a tow rating of 11,800lbs and it handles the trailer just fine. I love the auto downshifting when going down hills and the built in anti-sway control.

One thing I did learn with my old F250, if you do not use the load leveling trailer hitch (which I usually do not) you must make sure you load is not putting too much tongue weight on the hitch or it will affect your steering badly if your trailer starts pushing you down hill.

 

[Sammy3700]

Bulldog nailed it. My dad has equal set up as you. Chevy 1500 4x4 with factory towing package, a L3800 with loader and either a 20 blade disk or 5' bushhog is with the tractor. Trailer is a 20' two 5200lbs axles brakes on both.

 

[aeronutt]

I ... tow it with a dual axle (9,900lbs per axle rating, 19,800lbs total) MidAtlantic deck over 20ft trailer (16ft flat, 4ft dove tail). Trailer also has electric brakes. I think the trailer weighs 2,200lbs. Trailer cost $3,500 new ....

Please post a picture or three of this trailer. I'm really curious how a 2,200 lb trailer can be built so strong. Load Range E tires are over loaded at much less than 9,900 per axle so you either have magic tires or dually axles for a total of 8 tires. I've never seen a tandem dually trailer weigh anywhere close to 2,200 lbs. Last one I looked at weighs over 5K empty and cost 10 grand. You need a Class A CDL to pull it!

 

[Bulldog]

I'm curious to aeronutt. My old 16' (7k rated) trailer was just over 2500 lbs.

 

[eipo]

Just cause the axle may be rated at 9,900 doesn't mean its got tires and frame to match.

 

[KeithG]

Please post a picture or three of this trailer. I'm really curious how a 2,200 lb trailer can be built so strong. Load Range E tires are over loaded at much less than 9,900 per axle so you either have magic tires or dually axles for a total of 8 tires. I've never seen a tandem dually trailer weigh anywhere close to 2,200 lbs. Last one I looked at weighs over 5K empty and cost 10 grand. You need a Class A CDL to pull it!

I stand corrected! I was going off of memory and I guess I am not remembering things as well as I used to, or somehow I got confused with other figures, apologies.

Anyway I went back to my old purchase receipts and tried to read the DOT sticker on the trailer and from what I can see the DOT sticker says front axle load is 5,000LBS and rear axle load is 5,200LBS. Gross weight is 9,000LBS and from notes from the seller the trailer weight is 2,800LBS. Cost was $3,500 for trailer and $221 for toolbox in front. I looked for pictures and I never took any in all the years I have had it. So I took a couple today but we got snow yesterday so the pictures are not great...

Funny thing is the application for title says GVW is 8,000LBS but the DOT sticker and bill of sale says 9,000LBS. I guess I should call the manufacturer to find out which is correct.

Thanks for posting the questions as now I know the correct information. I guess now I should determine if this trailer is adequate for by B2710 with FEL and Woods BH750 backhoe...

 

[K80Shooter]

I have a L3560 which weighs more than your 3901 and I have a 20' trailer that has a dovetail dual 5,200 lbs axles with brakes on both of them. I pull the tractor with loader, rotary cutter and more all at the same time with a chevy 1500 with a 5.3 engine and factory towing package. It handles it but my next truck will be a chevy 2500.

If yours does not have the factory towing package make sure the right stuff is installed. There's all kinds of hitch's and stuff out there and they are not the same. This also applies to the ball you use, shank size makes a diff. also. Go as heavy duty as you can to avoid problems later.

 

[zload]

It ain't the pulling that's the issue, it's the stopping

 

[85Hokie]

It ain't the pulling that's the issue, it's the stopping

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Now .....thats the right answer.......you can pull the trailer with a 4 cylinder .......but stopping that much is where the rubber meets the road - pun intended!

 

[K80Shooter]

Most times inexperienced people think a loaded truck/trailer will stop like a unloaded one, sadly it will not. Always give yourself plenty of stopping room, try not to put yourself into an emergency stopping situation, be aware of your surrounding's and of actions of those around you. Give yourself lots of stopping room.

Just my 2cts worth.

 

[aeronutt]

Well, now that the trailer size is clarified, that looks like one of those 12K frame designs that gets de-rated by the manufacturer to keep it under that magic 10K legal threshold. I would double check the status of the tires, brakes, lights, and wiring and go about hauling that little tractor without any worries at all.

As mentioned above, the whoa is much more important than the go. Do an ops check on the breakaway brake system. It should lock the tires so they skid with the tractor loaded. Anything short of that requires repairs to be made.