Trouble removing hydraulic lift arm B1750

[WayneS]

Hi All,
New guy here from Maryland.
I have a 23 year old Kubota B-1750HST 4 wheel drive tractor with a bent left side Hydraulic lift arm. I'm having a heck of a time getting the lift arm off the splined shaft. There is what appears to be a knock out pin on the back of the arm that needs to be knocked out before the arm can be removed but the pin won't budge with a punch and hammer. Am I doing something wrong? This is the upper hydraulic lift arm almost under the seat. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
Wayne

 

[thebicman]

I looked at the parts break down and it appears to be a roll pin that you need to remove. Make sure your using a penetrant and if possible the correct sized roll pin punch. Agreed they can be difficult but with a big enough hammer it will come out.

 

[Dave_eng]

The last thing you want to do is to create a mushroom head.

I have cut them off flush with the splines using a mini angle grinder and cutting disk. Then using a flat faced punch just a tiny bit smaller than the roll pin, try driving it. Being confined by the splines and the shaft means it is less likely to deform and more of your energy goes into moving the pin.

I think you could drill if you don't have an oxy Acetylene torch.

From memory, they are not really hard steel.

Getting a new one at most bearing places will be easy.

Dave

 

[WayneS]

Thank you! Yes, it looks like a roll pin. I have used the correct size punch and my BF hammer. I was hoping it wasn't a "one way" pin. I'll soak it good and let it sit overnight and try again tomorrow. Thanks again for the response.
Also having a heck of a time finding a new arm from Kubota. I've tried 3 dealers and they can't even come up with a part number. They want me to bring in the old part to try and match it. Anyone know what the part number might be? The serial number on the tractor is 66786.
Thanks again.

 

[WayneS]

I have soaked this roll pin in PB Blaster and have the correct size punch. It's not musroomng it and hitting it with a small sledge hammer. It's not budging. It's like it's a one way pin and I'm going the wrong way. I'm afraid if I hit it any harder I may damage something. Would it be best to drill the roll pin out or try heating the arm with a small propane torch? I don't want to hurt any seals. Why couldn't they have used a nut and bolt? This is rediculous!

 

[Dave_eng]

I have soaked this roll pin in PB Blaster and have the correct size punch. It's not musroomng it and hitting it with a small sledge hammer. It's not budging. It's like it's a one way pin and I'm going the wrong way. I'm afraid if I hit it any harder I may damage something. Would it be best to drill the roll pin out or try heating the arm with a small propane torch? I don't want to hurt any seals. Why couldn't they have used a nut and bolt? This is rediculous!

The roll pins are a simple assembly line choice. Go in either direction, no torquing required.

Use a drill starting with one much smaller than the pin. As you remove material from the inside it may remove rust which then takes the pressure outwards off the pin and the remaining pin will come out with the punch.

To use heat, you need a powerful torch which heats things fast so you can heat, bash and cool., all before the heat moves along the shaft towards seals. The propane torch will just cook everything and not help the pin removal.

Dave

 

[WayneS]

Thanks Dave,
I'll give it a try tomorrow and let you know how it goes.
Wayne

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Most likely if you've put enough force on it to bent the arm, you've bent the pin, it would have tried to force the split open thus bending the pin in the middle of the slot.
Your very likely going to have to take a cut off wheel and cut the arm off the shaft.

 

[WayneS]

Well....I got up this morning fully intent on drilling this roll pin out of the lift arm....but decided to give it one more try with the hammer. I resurfaced the face of my punch with a file and made sure it was just slightly smaller than the pin. I placed the punch on the pin and with a little help from two peices of duct tape, made sure the punch was standing straight up. With two hands on my mini sledge hammer...I let her have it! THE PIN DROPPED A HALF INCH! I applied more PB Blaster and continued beating it down and out. I was thrilled until I realized I couldn't tap the bent arm off any more than an inch because the arm was hitting the ROPS. I disconnected both sides of the ROPS and had to tap the bent arm back on the shaft to get enough clearance to put a buffalo bar under the ROPS to raise the left side and yank it forward far enough to clear the arm. Once I got the ROPS out of the way I was able to tap the arm off. WHEW! Now I just have to find another arm. At least now I can bring the old arm to the dealer and try and match it.
In case you are wondering...I didn't bend the arm. This is what happens when you loan your tractor to your son's neighbor who was doing tree work.
I want to thank all of you who responded. I appreciate it very much.
Maybe there's something in this post that can help someone else.
Thanks again.
Wayne

 

[Dave_eng]

Maybe there's something in this post that can help someone else.
Thanks again.
Wayne

The lessons we learned from your posts are two fold. Don't loan your machine without you on it. No one will argue with that rule.

But not giving up is a lesson for many.

Dave

 

[thebicman]

Glad it hear you got it. I looked up your part in the Kubota parts lookup and it gave me two choices. 6641636515 and 6795036515 depending if your is a D or E. First number I can find if I google it but the second was a no go. Like you said probably better to show it to them and match it up.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Glad it hear you got it. I looked up your part in the Kubota parts lookup and it gave me two choices. 6641636515 and 6795036515 depending if your is a D or E. First number I can find if I google it but the second was a no go. Like you said probably better to show it to them and match it up.

It's the 67950-36515 as the other P/N has a bolt, not a roll pin.

And it looks to be available new, but that's not always the case.

 

[WayneS]

Glad to hear that. I took the part in to the dealer yesterday and ordered part # 67950-36515. It cost $202.00. I'm just glad to get it straight again.
Thanks all for helping.
Wayne

 

[WayneS]

Got the new arm installed today. All is well.Again...thanks.

But now I have a new issue. I also installed new fuel injectors and fuel filter this morning. I bled the lines and it's blowing white smoke and knocking. Research says it's probably a defective injector. Tomorrow, I'm going to identify which one it is and pull it out and take it apart. I guess this is what happens when you buy after market injectors. Still, 3 of them were $135.

 

[Dave_eng]

Got the new arm installed today. All is well.Again...thanks.

But now I have a new issue. I also installed new fuel injectors and fuel filter this morning. I bled the lines and it's blowing white smoke and knocking. Research says it's probably a defective injector. Tomorrow, I'm going to identify which one it is and pull it out and take it apart. I guess this is what happens when you buy after market injectors. Still, 3 of them were $135.

Before blaming the injectors what about the Glow plugs and their wiring.

Do NOT take injectors apart as you will do far more harm than good

Post some photos of the glow plug side of your engine as a start.

The resistance values of the GP's for your engine (0.5 ohms) are about 1/2 of those for other engines(0.9 ohms) so getting the correct ones is likely important.

Dave

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I guess this is what happens when you buy after market injectors. Still, 3 of them were $135.

I would say your right, sounds like a flooding injector.
Send them back and buy some from Oregon Fuel Injection, 90% of the cheap aftermarket injectors are bad.

 

[D2Cat]

I had similar problems with a V2203 engine. Bought 4 aftermarket injectors. One was loading up BAD. Removed all of them and took them to an diesel injection service shop. Three were good, one would not build up pressure. It leaked fuel continually.

Oh, you can do what I did but it's a lot of trouble. Install, remove, drive to have tested, return the bad one, install all injectors again...... The folks where I returned it were nice, but I wasted a lot of time and money, hoping to save some.

For others, buy for a reputable supplier and Oregon Fuel Injection is one of them! I bought an NEW injection pump for my L305 from them. $426 shipped to my door in three days. Kubota wanted $1100, and had to order it in.

 

[WayneS]

Because I didn't have time to order new injectors, I decided to take the old kubota injectors apart. There was a carbon buildup on them all and one was a little wet I recall when I pulled them. I cleaned them up and took them apart. They cleaned up nicely and there was no pitting. I put them back in this morning and installed new copper gaskets and torqued them to 45lbs. I fired it up and it runs great! I actually tilled my garden.
I have requested a refund through Amazon.com for the other injectors but have to wait for approval from "Over The Hill Tractor Parts" in Virginia before sending them back.
Thanks again to all who responded.
Wayne