Transmission Dip Stick

Jim Ingram

New member

Equipment
7610
Aug 29, 2020
16
1
3
75766
Anyone have trouble getting the transmission dip stick out to check the fluid? I have a B7510 and can't seem to be able to remove the stick. I have pulled and tugged then had others to do the same but it just doesn't seem to want to come out. Planning to change fluid and filters so if no other way I can remove the tube from the side of the transmission and maybe get at it that way. Any suggestions?
 

SidecarFlip

Banned

Equipment
M9000HDCC3, M9000HD, Kubota GS850 Sidekick
Oct 28, 2018
7,197
555
83
USA
The tube is press fit. twist and pull the dipstick. I take mine out and check the level before I start either of them, every time I use them. Motor oil too. Check the tire pressure every week as well.
 

Jim Ingram

New member

Equipment
7610
Aug 29, 2020
16
1
3
75766
The tube is press fit. twist and pull the dipstick. I take mine out and check the level before I start either of them, every time I use them. Motor oil too. Check the tire pressure every week as well.
I have tried turning, pulling everything but it just doesn't give. After talking to the dealer he said all I need is to just pull it out. The tube has one bolt holding it with two O rings but I don't know if it is above the oil level or not. I just purchased this tractor with 289 hours on it and just want to do a complete service on it and run into this problem.
 

Jim Ingram

New member

Equipment
7610
Aug 29, 2020
16
1
3
75766
I am sure it is but how can I tell if the stick won't come out? How can I put oil or anything on it with it still in the tube? I would think a little grease would help it from sticking if I could just get it out of the tube. I tried removing the fill plug in case there was any suction there but it did not help. I don't want to break the stick by trying to force it out. I don't have any idea if the transmission has ever been serviced.
Thanks for the reply.
 

SidecarFlip

Banned

Equipment
M9000HDCC3, M9000HD, Kubota GS850 Sidekick
Oct 28, 2018
7,197
555
83
USA
From the sounds of it, probably not. Fluid level in all Kubota tractors, no matter if gear drive or HST, will be just BELOW the height of the bottom of the pro stub when the tractor is sitting level. No matter what model or year or type, that is where the full fluid point will be.

Get a hold of that errant dipstick with a pair of vice grips and yank hard on it. It will come out. What you need to do to make sure the dipstick is the correct length is... Measure from the top of the case casting where the dipstick inserts at, to the bottom of the pto stub (approximately ) and used that dimension to ascertain if the dipstick marks coincide with that measurement. The 'full' mark on the stick should be at that measurement or close to it. If not, you have the incorrect dipstick or you will need to engrave the correct marks on it.
 

Jim Ingram

New member

Equipment
7610
Aug 29, 2020
16
1
3
75766
From the sounds of it, probably not. Fluid level in all Kubota tractors, no matter if gear drive or HST, will be just BELOW the height of the bottom of the pro stub when the tractor is sitting level. No matter what model or year or type, that is where the full fluid point will be.

Get a hold of that errant dipstick with a pair of vice grips and yank hard on it. It will come out. What you need to do to make sure the dipstick is the correct length is... Measure from the top of the case casting where the dipstick inserts at, to the bottom of the pto stub (approximately ) and used that dimension to ascertain if the dipstick marks coincide with that measurement. The 'full' mark on the stick should be at that measurement or close to it. If not, you have the incorrect dipstick or you will need to engrave the correct marks on it.

Thanks for the reply. I have about decided that is the only way I can get it out. I took the fill cap off and used a clean screwdriver down the fill hole and the fluid level was about 10 inches down. My son works for a company with a lot of Ford trucks and says a lot of them are like my tractor very hard to get out sometimes it is a tug of war. I plan on doing a complete service as soon as I get a little time. I am not using it right now anyway but not knowing what kind of service it had previously I just think it should be done.

One other question which might should be posted in another place but it seems slow starting, (I don't have a owners manual) but is there a place to warm the plugs are do they auto warm like some other brands or should I check the glow plug, plugs?
 

SidecarFlip

Banned

Equipment
M9000HDCC3, M9000HD, Kubota GS850 Sidekick
Oct 28, 2018
7,197
555
83
USA
On my larger units, the key switch has 3 positions. Off, preheat and start. IOW, the first lump if you will past off is preheat and the second is start. On the smaller units there is an glow plug indicator that glows. When I pre heat I get a yellow dash indicator next to the oil pressure light which goes out when it starts.
 

SidecarFlip

Banned

Equipment
M9000HDCC3, M9000HD, Kubota GS850 Sidekick
Oct 28, 2018
7,197
555
83
USA
Little word of caution. Never, never use starting fluid on a Kubota engine. It will cause a bent connecting rod.
 

Jim Ingram

New member

Equipment
7610
Aug 29, 2020
16
1
3
75766
On my larger units, the key switch has 3 positions. Off, preheat and start. IOW, the first lump if you will past off is preheat and the second is start. On the smaller units there is an glow plug indicator that glows. When I pre heat I get a yellow dash indicator next to the oil pressure light which goes out when it starts.
Thanks. I will check and see if I am doing it right. Maybe I am not waiting long enough for the light to come on. It just does not seem to work like any of the other tractors I have.
 

Jim Ingram

New member

Equipment
7610
Aug 29, 2020
16
1
3
75766
Thanks. I will check and see if I am doing it right. Maybe I am not waiting long enough for the light to come on. It just does not seem to work like any of the other tractors I have.
Thanks to you fellows I got the dip stick out. Seems there are two O rings around it and either they had been replaced with two that were a tad larger than what should be which made it very difficult to get out.

I also found the heat plug indicator had a burnt fuse which I replaced but after that I could not get the engine started at all. It spins over fine but will just not start. Dad always said if you got fuel and spark it will go and I got no spark (LOL) maybe that is the reason. I haven't used this thing but a couple times maybe 5 mins each time but I bought it because I had shoulder surgery and needing it on the other shoulder and moving small things around the yard and this 15 acres makes things hurt a lot so maybe I can get it going. Thanks again for your help and any other suggestions would sure be appreciated.
 

D2Cat

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
13,885
5,689
113
40 miles south of Kansas City
Without any background knowledge it's difficult to determine your "no fire" problem. It turn over, so I'd check the fuel supply first. Be sure the fuel is fresh/not old. Check the fuel filter, maybe even replace it if you don't know the history of it's use. Check fuel to see it's getting to the injector pump. It all that seems fine, you probably have air in the lines and need to bleed the air out at the injectors by loosening the nut at the fuel line there.

Tell us more about what you know about the tractor, when was the last time it started, and previous odd starting situations, etc
 

Jim Ingram

New member

Equipment
7610
Aug 29, 2020
16
1
3
75766
Without any background knowledge it's difficult to determine your "no fire" problem. It turn over, so I'd check the fuel supply first. Be sure the fuel is fresh/not old. Check the fuel filter, maybe even replace it if you don't know the history of it's use. Check fuel to see it's getting to the injector pump. It all that seems fine, you probably have air in the lines and need to bleed the air out at the injectors by loosening the nut at the fuel line there.

Tell us more about what you know about the tractor, when was the last time it started, and previous odd starting situations, etc
It started the day before but was slow catching up no black smoke or anything and I could not get the glow plugs figured out. Now that is corrected it spins over but just doesn't start.

Dad was a old gasoline everything for years so his old saying was correct back then but diesels are a different breed. It took me years to get him off gasoline but when I did we never owned another one.
 

200mph

Well-known member

Equipment
L4740-3 Cab, FEL, Fnt Snow Blower L2185, LP Finish Mower, LP Rotary Mower
Mar 3, 2017
1,228
61
48
PA
Any chance the fuel shutoff valve is closed? (Assuming this model has one on the filter housing)
 

D2Cat

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
13,885
5,689
113
40 miles south of Kansas City
Jim, I think your listed zip puts you in Texas.

If the tractor started lately then you can get it started without the glow plug circuit working. Simply take a heat gun (or a hair blow dryer) and heat up the intake manifold by moving the heater forward and backward the length of the intake manifold. All you need to do is heat it enough to warm the air as it passes through. So heat it, set the heater down, get on the seat and turn clockwise to start the engine. It should fire right up.
 

Jim Ingram

New member

Equipment
7610
Aug 29, 2020
16
1
3
75766
Jim, I think your listed zip puts you in Texas.

If the tractor started lately then you can get it started without the glow plug circuit working. Simply take a heat gun (or a hair blow dryer) and heat up the intake manifold by moving the heater forward and backward the length of the intake manifold. All you need to do is heat it enough to warm the air as it passes through. So heat it, set the heater down, get on the seat and turn clockwise to start the engine. It should fire right up.
Thanks for the reply. This morning I tried to crank the tractor with no luck so decided to check the battery again. It showed a good 12.5 volts but I decided to put a charger on it anyway and noticed it started charging at 10 amps and did not improve any over 30 minutes. At this point I unplugged the charger and still had the 12.5 then hit the glow plug and it dropped to 8 volts. Put the charger in crank mode and it started right off the bat. It appears the battery has a bad cell and under load it is dropping off pretty bad. Headed out later to get a new battery.

Again thanks for the suggestions. Oh! I picked up some new O rings for the dipstick and now it is fairly easy to get in and out.
 
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