trailer hitch

lugbolt

Well-known member

Equipment
ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
5,246
1,927
113
Mid, South, USA
I have never noticed this before and I've towed trailers everywhere with different vehicles. When I slide the ball mount into the receiver on my truck, I push it in, put the pin through it, and slide the pin through and put the clip on. Earlier I slid it in like normal and for whatever reason pushed it as far back as it could go. In doing so I kind of measured half-heartedly how far I had to pull it back out of the receiver to line the pin up--a good 5" give or take, which is not quite half the length of the ball mount. Why does the ball mount not slide most of the way back? Sure seems like it'd eliminate some rattling? I have an extended ball mount that is longer than usual (have to use it for one of the boats) and I could slide it all the way back, mark a new hole and drill it out. Is there any reason that wouldn't be a good idea other than having to drill 2 new 5/8" holes?
 

NCL4701

Well-known member

Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Apr 27, 2020
2,824
4,304
113
Central Piedmont, NC
Before you go to the trouble to do that, probably worth checking the length of the tube on your truck’s hitch you’re sliding the mount into. Good chance when you’re pushing the mount in way further than usual it’s going all the way out the back of the tube and whatever part of the mount is past the back of the tube is just hanging in the air so that extra depth isn’t really accomplishing anything, or maybe just not as much as it might seem. If you’re really getting substantial additional engagement between the hitch tube and mount, maybe it’s worth doing and seeing if it results in less rattling.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users

DustyRusty

Well-known member

Equipment
2020 BX23S, BX2822 Snowblower, Curtis Deluxe Cab,
Nov 8, 2015
6,293
4,872
113
North East CT

lugbolt

Well-known member

Equipment
ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
5,246
1,927
113
Mid, South, USA
Before you go to the trouble to do that, probably worth checking the length of the tube on your truck’s hitch you’re sliding the mount into. Good chance when you’re pushing the mount in way further than usual it’s going all the way out the back of the tube and whatever part of the mount is past the back of the tube is just hanging in the air so that extra depth isn’t really accomplishing anything, or maybe just not as much as it might seem. If you’re really getting substantial additional engagement between the hitch tube and mount, maybe it’s worth doing and seeing if it results in less rattling.
the back of the RECEIVER is blind, ball mount cannot come out the back.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

skeets

Well-known member

Equipment
BX 2360 /B2601
Oct 2, 2009
14,618
3,450
113
SW Pa
All I know about bumper hitches is I will find one walking through a parking lot in the dark !!!!
 
  • Haha
Reactions: 1 users

lynnmor

Well-known member

Equipment
B2601-1
May 3, 2021
1,452
1,172
113
Red Lion
If and when you need to use the extended position there will be a weakened spot at the newly drilled holes.

If you do run the ball mount in the short position, check for interference with the bumper when trailer is jack-knifed near the maximum.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

GreensvilleJay

Well-known member

Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
11,652
5,041
113
Greensville,Ontario,Canada
Drill the new hoes, no harm in that. It will not weaken the sleeve.... just look at how trusses are made. look at the amount of holes Ijoists can have..providing they're dead centered top to btm.
I have dozens of sleeves ,some custom made and the distance between ball and pin hole is based on NOT having the trailer hit the truck when backing up and jackknifing...(well, hopefully...)
 

lugbolt

Well-known member

Equipment
ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
5,246
1,927
113
Mid, South, USA
Nevermind.

I made it work.

It's an extended ball mount (about 18" OAL) and the manufacturer (curt) drilled the pin hole at almost the very end, so it sticks WAY out and rattles even with the trailer hooked up to it. I slid it in to the end, after removing the surface rust and the weld boogers way up inside the receiver, then marked, then bored the new .650" hole in the ball mount. They ended up almost exactly 5 1/2" from the original. At least the ball mount fits all the way up inside the receiver now.

I have to use an extended ball mount because of the way the trailer is made, short tongue and can't turn right very well with the old ball mount which put the ball exactly 1.5" behind the bumper. All the other trailers are fine, just the one is problematic.

but it's fixed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users