Trailer for Transporting B2650

[Andyz]

I need from time to time to move my tractor and implements about 10 miles to another property. My tractor has a loader, (which stays attached) and I have a flail mower, box blade and scraper blade, but those can move separate. What size trailer would work for this without going to crazy HD item. I have a 6.5 x 14 single axle (3500lb)utility trailer that I move a UTV on, but I think the rear ramp would get nailed by the Kub. I am in WNC

 

[GreensvilleJay]

If you're 'handy', replace the single axle with a tandem setup. on your trailer. It's be to most cost effective solution. Maybe $500-$1000 in materials.

 

[85Hokie]

I need from time to time to move my tractor and implements about 10 miles to another property. My tractor has a loader, (which stays attached) and I have a flail mower, box blade and scraper blade, but those can move separate. What size trailer would work for this without going to crazy HD item. I have a 6.5 x 14 single axle (3500lb)utility trailer that I move a UTV on, but I think the rear ramp would get nailed by the Kub. I am in WNC

I would look at a 16' er double axle, brakes on at least one of those axles.

 

[Oleracer]

16 ft tandem axle will do it. I would shy away from single axle brakes. Lots of laws changing and you need brakes on both axles. If you get around fancy gap you’ll be happy you have brakes I have run some big loads in your area code.My b2150 says 1800 ish lbs. but it a bit over at 2700 with hoe and loader.
If used make sure VIN tag is readable and you can get a title. Lots of stolen trailers floating around on marketplace.

 

[fried1765]

If you're 'handy', replace the single axle with a tandem setup. on your trailer. It's be to most cost effective solution. Maybe $500-$1000 in materials.

Your suggestion ignores the light duty ramp issue.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

DISCLAIMER: I'M NO EXPERT.

Personally, I wouldn't modify a trailer from single to dual axle as the frame wouldn't have been designed to carry the extra weight. An "incident" may not be covered by insurance, and if you were an insurance company would you cover someone random person doing a backyard modification well beyond the trailer's design?

In some states dual-axle trailers and trailers over 3,500# require plates and a braking system.

Trailer regulations in Wisconsin are numerous and fines are stiff, plus if "the law" finds "something" your load isn't moving if you're not 100% legal so that could mean hiring someone to move your load and trailer. Truckers have said "inspection" is a money-making scheme you're always going to fail, they always find "something" and even if they're wrong (which supposedly is the case) you have to pay to fight it in court and regardless, your load still isn't moving until you comply.

Again, I'm no expert and things outside Wisconsin are likely different, just trying to provide a few things you may wish to consider.

Regarding the ramp I put wood rounds (logs) in each corner of the trailer when driving the tractor on/off and welded 1/4" steel mesh to angle iron reinforcing the rear ramp, the attachment pins were heavy duty--it's strong now!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

light duty ramp could either be modified or replaced, obviously jacks would be added to back of trailer, or blocks tossed into pickup to support the rear of the trailer.
Also obvious that BOTH axles would have brakes, and of course backup lights.
these minor mods are the most cost effective means to have an upgraded trailer.
After that would be buying a 'car hauler' style trailer with upgrade brakes and backup lights.

What's unknown is if the OP has space for a second, larger trailer. Some don't have the room or want to insure more equipment. He did say though not' crazy HD'.

Laws of course vary, but in Ontario it's perfectly legal to build your own trailers. Sneaky law though says ANY trailer carrying 2991+#s must have brakes, so dealers sell 2990# rated trailers even though they use 3500# axles.

 

[fried1765]

light duty ramp could either be modified or replaced, obviously jacks would be added to back of trailer, or blocks tossed into pickup to support the rear of the trailer.
Also obvious that BOTH axles would have brakes, and of course backup lights.
these minor mods are the most cost effective means to have an upgraded trailer.
After that would be buying a 'car hauler' style trailer with upgrade brakes and backup lights.

What's unknown is if the OP has space for a second, larger trailer. Some don't have the room or want to insure more equipment. He did say though not' crazy HD'.

Laws of course vary, but in Ontario it's perfectly legal to build your own trailers. Sneaky law though says ANY trailer carrying 2991+#s must have brakes, so dealers sell 2990# rated trailers even though they use 3500# axles.

"insure more equipment"?
In the USA, towing vehicle insurance covers the trailer. while on roadways.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

yes but what about while it sits on your property ??
Not everyone's basic 'home owner's policy' covers everything.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

I need from time to time to move my tractor and implements about 10 miles to another property. My tractor has a loader, (which stays attached) and I have a flail mower, box blade and scraper blade, but those can move separate. What size trailer would work for this without going to crazy HD item. I have a 6.5 x 14 single axle (3500lb)utility trailer that I move a UTV on, but I think the rear ramp would get nailed by the Kub. I am in WNC

Good day.

When I originally had a BX, I had a 20’ Appalachian utility trailer. Tandem axles, brakes and beaver tail ramp. I still have it today, but mainly use a larger equipment trailer. I have hauled my B on it many times. I’ve had a tire blow out on highway with it and am very glad I had tandem axles. I don’t think I would buy a single axle trailer if planning to use at speed / distance. The beaver tail ramp was really meant for a riding lawnmower. I ended up stiffening it up for piece of mind with the B. A dovetail would be helpful if have a MMM. I did not see that in your detail so maybe not necessary.

As far as size, 20’ with a BX or B seems like a lot but in my case I was hauling a tractor, contractor box and either extra implements or atv. I also wanted to be able to handle long lumber. For just the tractor and loader and implement you may not need 20’. However what is important is where tractor needs to be when chained down so trailer is balanced. So personally I’d recommend find the brand trailer interested in then Determine where the axles are and where the tractor will go and see how much room you have left over, or maybe want something larger. It really depends on how you want to load it and what all you want to haul in a trip. IMO I’d leave a couple extra feet of wiggle room from what you think you need. YMMV.

I am not sure what your plans are with your other place, but if thinking about a bigger tractor or other items to haul now is a good time to think for future use.

How do you plan to load/unload your implements? If taking multiple trips? Shuttling tractor back and forth each time? Will you be loading implements from the side or only when attached to the tractor. I’d sort of plan an imaginary day of work at the other place and think about how you will get all your stuff where you need it and see how that works out trip / space / loading wise at each end of the haul. If planning to leave tractor at one end while go home to get another implement how will you load it without taking tractor back? (Have to strap it all down each time) I’d recommend consider a day of tasks and see what a trailer just big enough for the machine would make sense or not for you.

If doing any of this at night or need to back down a long drive I’d thinking about lighting as well. (I’ve had good luck with buying a light from my cordless tool and use a battery powered light with magnet on trailer for backing at night)…a trailer with it built in would be nice but a battery powered tool light with magnet is a close second.

Tool boxes on the trailer never go waste IMO.

I am not sure any of that helps, but I hope it does. Good luck.

 

[kcs 61]

I had a 18’ 7k to haul my B2650 on. It did a great job. But then I brought a rotary cutter and it wouldn’t fit. So I sold that one and brought a 20’ 10k. The only reason I went with a 10k was it was on the lot and the guy gave me an awesome deal. Cuz he wanted it gone It had been on the lot for a year.

 

[fried1765]

yes but what about while it sits on your property ??
Not everyone's basic 'home owner's policy' covers everything.

I find that it is not economical to insure small trailers.
I just try to keep them out of sight.
In my situation, everything is stored inside.

I do not have a "basic" homeowner policy.
I have "replacement value" coverage!

 

[Runs With Scissors]

My only suggestion is pathetically generic.

Get the biggest one you can afford and your storage situation allows.

Take me as an example.

in the year 2020 PK (Pre-Kubota) I bought a trailer for my Rhino UTV and got one with a "little room" to spare.

So I got a "Big Ass" 7,000lbs., 16 footer, dual axle. Biggest trailer I have ever owned.

Plenty for the Rhino and maybe a 4 wheeler for ice fishing.

Turns out that my "Big Ass" trailer ain't so big when you plop a 5,000 lbs., L2501 TLB on it.

I sure wish I had gone with a 20+ foot, 12K.

I "get by" with it, but for the small amount of "up front cash" I should have gone bigger.

 

[BAP]

"insure more equipment"?
In the USA, towing vehicle insurance covers the trailer. while on roadways.

No, it only covers the trailer IF hitched to the towing vehicle. The minute it comes unhitched on its own or in an accident, the trailer No longer is covered under most insurance policies. You should have specific insurance on your trailer.

 

[BAP]

I have a 18’ tandem axle trailer with flip up ramps. I can haul my B2920 with a rear implement attached and it is a fairly tight fit. Not much price difference between 14,16,18 foot trailers.

 

[Sidekick]

I recently went with a 7 x i4 aluminum that tows nice with my small Ford Ranger. Empty trailer weights under 1000 pounds. I had to add back support feet later for loading and e tracks because poor factory tie downs. This will give you an idea of how a bx fits in a ways.

Adding e tracks to an aluminum trailer was a pain because of the need to isolate dissimilar metals. This is how I handled that

 

[fried1765]

My only suggestion is pathetically generic.

Get the biggest one you can afford and your storage situation allows.

Take me as an example.

in the year 2020 PK (Pre-Kubota) I bought a trailer for my Rhino UTV and got one with a "little room" to spare.

So I got a "Big Ass" 7,000lbs., 16 footer, dual axle. Biggest trailer I have ever owned.

Plenty for the Rhino and maybe a 4 wheeler for ice fishing.

Turns out that my "Big Ass" trailer ain't so big when you plop a 5,000 lbs., L2501 TLB on it.

I sure wish I had gone with a 20+ foot, 12K.

I "get by" with it, but for the small amount of "up front cash" I should have gone bigger.

I went a slightly different route.
Bought a 14K -20' tandem trailer,....the 1st time!

 

[biketopia]

I have a 7k 18' car trailer. It has slide out ramps, a dove tail, and wood deck. Has worked great for moving my B2650 with loader around. I have a 7x12 single axle I use for hauling smaller stuff.

 

[Toyman]

I had a 7x12' single axle originally for my B7100 & Loader. Hauled it fine alone. When I bought my M4050 (no loader), I upgraded to a 10k, 18' car hauler. It hauled the M4050 fine alone and also hauled the B7100 with rotary cutter or tiller etc very well. I traded the M4050 for a Mahindra 5005 w/loader and it's close to the full capacity on the new trailer.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Be careful with an aluminum trailer ! Not every T,D &H can WELD aluminum !!! Might not be huge deal if close to home but on the Interstate could be an issue.

FYI basic ,entry level 'car hauler' is $6K out the door here in Hamilton,Ontario.