Trailer for the U 25s mini excavator

[flyidaho]

Keeping in mind I already have this 12' 10K GVW dump bed trailer, here is what I have come up with for the occasional move. Unless I get into commer cial work with lots of moves on a weekly basis, this would seem to get the job done. My other alternative is to make a custom hauler, maybe with a tilt bed, and I also have a bid out on a couple used trailers. Both of the used ones are skid steer haulers, with a lower bed then the dumper, and pretty much flat beds so easier to tie down then the dealing with the constraints of the dump beds sideboards.

Short of hacking holes in my side boards or welding more tie downs in the bed (which I could do, but that kind of creates a problem for sliding stuff out of the bed, I want to keep them to a minimum), I am dealing with the 4 already located in the 4 corners. Keeping the curled bucket located on the front is the thing, today I am going to weld up a simple bracket that will bolt onto the permenant (like the sides, I call them sideboards but they don't come off) front sideboard with two bolts, and positively preclude any side to side movement. I'll still bind it down to the front tie downs as pictured, and in addition am going to use another tie down to the front of the tongue, so it can't move side to side or fore and aft. That should satisfy any requirements for securing the movable part of any equipment being trucked? I sure can't see it going anywhere.

Two chain binders on the front blade, and for now anyway 2 binder straps (one pictured, since replaced by two) on the rear tie down point. Those 2" web straps are pretty strong, but I using two instead of one made me feel better.

I have a state trooper barracks right down the road a 1/2 mile from my crane yard, and a CDL to protect, so I need it all to be legal and pass inspection, as I also have a Port of Entry on the I-15 interstate to contend with if i choose to use the freeway (unlikely, there is a 45 mph secondary road goes the same direction, which is my usual choice to get to my crane yard and town.) Those 2" strap binders on the rear may need to be upgraded, we'll see. I am happy with the center of gravity, the 1 ton pickup and trailer seem to be also, it looks right anyway just sitting there parked, have not driven it yet. The mini weighs 5600lbs I'm told. Critiques invited, blast away, I'm half hoping I get to build a custom trailer but right now this is looking like a reasonable way to haul it my usual 30 or 40 miles round trip a few times a year. BTW, the same trailer (with the same compromises, as oppposed to a custom built hauler) is used for the L 3301. If I do go custom, it would also be my choice for hauling the tractor, they both are 5' wide and have similar needs for tie down placement.

 

[Jfet]

Heh, I carried my new U35-4 home from the dealer on my flatbed truck!

It is about 8400 pounds vs your 5600 (the U25-S might be a little heavier than 5600 though).

I used chain binders on the rear undercarriage hooks (one on each side) and chain binders on each side of the dozer blade (it has attachment holes). I used a 3 inch wide strap across the bucket to hold it and the boom down.

I think that is correct. Any removable part has to be strapped down, including the bucket, even though it is fastened to the excavator arm with a 1.5" steel pin.

Your trailer is probably about 2400 pounds empty? And 10000 GVWR? You should be good on capacity, right?

 

[flyidaho]

The literature seems to say 5600 lbs., though when I picked it with my crane it's load indicator said 6 K +. I'm right at gross, more or less, but not over the trailer's carrying capacity, (being a dump bed with sides, it's a lot heavier then any purpose built one I'd build, what I really want is a bare frame/no flooring/no sides, all to keep the capacity as high as possible) and I make a point of keeping the tires at optimum pressure and driving 45 mph so am not much worried there.

Great picture, that's a good looking setup! It just occured to me, when I haul it into my crane yard today, no need for ramping it to unload, I'll get to try out my new rigging setup and just lift it off. One last picture, thought I'd posted it earlier, of the rear, hope it doesn't show up twice. This is where I now have two
strap binders instead of only one.

 

[Herkypilot]

I'd definitely put a 10k chain with a load binder on the back instead of straps. Add a clevis on the back at that attachment point to make it easier to run the chain. I'd say you want the best restrain to keep it from going forward in case of a frontal collision.

On that note, what are those ring brackets on the floor of the trailer welded to? Is that 1/4" plate steel or is it cut out to weld to the frame of the trailer?

 

[Flienlow]

I use straps on my BX25 all the time. However, I would NOT use straps on my U25. I generally use 1 or 2 chains on the blade ( depending on my laziness) and then 1 chain on the "V" hook.

Not saying this is how to do it, just saying this is what I do.

 

[flyidaho]

I am 100% chains on the new purpose built U25 trailer (I have a thread on it's build on the fabrication page) except for the ratchet strap that secures the bucket. One of the best things about "rolling my own" was being able to weld in tie downs exactly where I needed them, rather then working with ones that were factory installed and somewwhat of a compromise location wise. One example: my blade is secured (down, and forward, I transport it blade forward) with one screw type chain binder on each side of the blade, but no chain is required as the binders go direct to welded on tie down rings. Just less loose stuff to keep track of, and simpler. I have no problems with the right strap for the right purpose, it just turned out chains were the way to go with this project, mostly.

I take my strap rigging out of service in my crane business as soon as it shows the first sign of wear, they have paid for themselves by then and it makes a great impression on my customers when they see my rigging and how I am so picky about it. I then take the old rigging home (what I don't give away to friends for tow straps or whatever) and proceed to totally abuse it! Leaving them out in the sun, using them where they are sure to be abraded, over loading them, etc. Never for lifting but tractor related work, and as a result I have an even greater respect for how frigging strong they are! Sun bleached, half torn up, still amazingly tough. Not to mention all the semi's going down the road, with straps securing their loads.