I have a l3800 about 11 years old, 900 hrs. Replaced battery 1 1/2 years ago. Recently having starting trouble. Charged up battery yesterday as several times it wouldn't start. Later did start. Today started several times and then wouldn't start. Sometimes the starter wouldn't turn over. Think its a corroded connection on starter cable. Today after fueling up, starter turned over OK, engine would not start. Tried to hop it with portable emergency battery system. Wouldn't start. Had just replaced fuel filter 6 months ago. removed it, checked it and replaced it. Still no start. Put in new fuel filter. Turn over but No start. Recharging battery now. Any ideas and/or advice on what else to check.
Tractor turns over, wont start
- Thread starter pinkerpv
- Start date
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
More details on your starting sequence please.
Do you normally use the glow plugs during your start sequence?
Does it always start easily if it has been running?
Does any smoke come out of the exhaust when it is cranking but won’t run? If so what color smoke is visible and how much is it? Same question when it is runnin.
If you have any suspicions about the cables please just replace them if they are not too expensive. You could also start with making all four ends of the cables are shiny bright and whatever they connect to is also clean and shiny. Or add a set of jumper cables from the battery cable clamps to the starter and ground to the frame. You would be surprised how many times that after a week or two of trying to find the problem the solution comes back with something like “cleaned all the cable ends” or “replaced cables “ and then the magic words “problem solved “.
Have you had the battery load tested yet?
What makes the starter start spinning again when it was not spinning properly before?
Please be a bit more specific about the words used, I understand that you have both a problem with the cranking (engine spins with starter) and also a problem with it not firing off and running if it does crank but have some confusion about when it does what since somtimes it “wouldn’t start”. I don’t know if it didn’t crank or didn’t run. I know that it is tedious but it does help us know that you mean. You can define your own words if you like other terms, just try to be consistent with the words used.
Do you normally use the glow plugs during your start sequence?
Does it always start easily if it has been running?
Does any smoke come out of the exhaust when it is cranking but won’t run? If so what color smoke is visible and how much is it? Same question when it is runnin.
If you have any suspicions about the cables please just replace them if they are not too expensive. You could also start with making all four ends of the cables are shiny bright and whatever they connect to is also clean and shiny. Or add a set of jumper cables from the battery cable clamps to the starter and ground to the frame. You would be surprised how many times that after a week or two of trying to find the problem the solution comes back with something like “cleaned all the cable ends” or “replaced cables “ and then the magic words “problem solved “.
Have you had the battery load tested yet?
What makes the starter start spinning again when it was not spinning properly before?
Please be a bit more specific about the words used, I understand that you have both a problem with the cranking (engine spins with starter) and also a problem with it not firing off and running if it does crank but have some confusion about when it does what since somtimes it “wouldn’t start”. I don’t know if it didn’t crank or didn’t run. I know that it is tedious but it does help us know that you mean. You can define your own words if you like other terms, just try to be consistent with the words used.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
re: 'jump start. Did you connect directly to the starter or the battery ?
if starter, then you have an internal starter problem..
if battery, bad cables,bad connections, bad battery
if starter, then you have an internal starter problem..
if battery, bad cables,bad connections, bad battery
ve9aa
Well-known member
Equipment
TG1860, BX2380 -backblade, bx2830 snowblower, fel, weight box,pallet forks,etc
OK. I will be more clear. Since the tractor had been running and I just turned it off to fuel it up, I did not use glow plugs. Normally the first time I start the tractor it will crank and start right away.
The tractor normally starts right away whether its been running and warm or not.
No smoke comes out of the exhaust when it is cranking. Occasionally, if the tractor hasn't been run for a week or so, black smoke will come from the exhaust for a second after it starts. Never after it is already warm. No smoke comes from the exhaust when the tractor is running. Fuel filter was changed several months ago and was clean after the tractor cranked but did not start this last time. I replaced it with a new filter anyway. The air filter was cleaned several months ago also. I checked and it was OK.
I will check the cables to the starter today. I did connect an emergency power supply to the battery. The starter would spin the flywheel a little faster but still no start. I have not connected the emergency power supple directly to the starter nor jumper cables
The few times the starter would not spin, I would wait for a time and then try again. Eventually the starter would spin and the engine would start.
The battery was replaced 1 1/2 years ago so the battery should be OK. I put it on the charger last night and this morning it showed 13 volts.
The times I used the words"wouldn't start" refer to the starter spinning but the engine not starting. A few times when the starter would not spin, I tapped on the starter with a metal rod and turned the ignition and the starter would spin. That makes me think I have a starter problem or a cable problem.
The tractor is 11 years old with 900 hours on it. I have never had starter problems until just recently.
I appreciate your comments and desire to help. Thank you.
Connected to the battery. Will connect to starter today. Hope its not the starter. Not many available. Plus $. But will have to get one if that's the pbm.
Reinstalled the battery. Removed the positive battery cable, cleaned both ends. Replaced the positive battery cable clamp. Tried to start engine. Starter spins over very well. Engine will not start. Connected emergency battery system to starter post and ground. Starter spins. Engine will not start.
Is there a trouble shooting test for fuel beyond replacing the filter?
Normally the engine will start within 1 or 2 seconds of starter turning the engine over.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Does starter spin at "normal" (previous) speed?
"replaced positive cable clamp"
Why?
Did positive cable/clamp end show corrosion?
Positive cable may be corroded internally.
Was ground/negative cable connection also cleaned/checked at BOTH ends?
ve9aa
Well-known member
Equipment
TG1860, BX2380 -backblade, bx2830 snowblower, fel, weight box,pallet forks,etc
I think he meant he UNHOOKED the clamp, cleaned it and reinstalled (not replaced it with a new one)
At least, that's what I understood.
Now it's starting to sound like a fuel delivery issue.
At least, that's what I understood.
Now it's starting to sound like a fuel delivery issue.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
since it spins, either no fuel to injector pump or 'shut off' solenoid is not allowing engine to start ??
When removing the battery the positive cable clamp bolt broke off. Clamp had been tight but bolt was rusted and twisted off. Not much corrosion on cables. Cleaned. Starter spins at normal speed. I don't think I have a battery pbm or starter pbm now. I think it is a fuel pbm. I have bled the system according to the operators manual and fuel is flowing to the fuel filter. My fuel pump may be bad or there may be a blockage in the fuel line from the filter to the pump or beyond. I will check the lines later today. May try to start the tractor by spraying diesel fuel in the air intake. Don't know if that will help but it was suggested by diesel mechanic. Similar to spraying starter fluid in carburetor. May remove the fuel pump also.
Still want advice from everyone and do appreciate your comments.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
simple test, remove fuel connection at the injector pump, turn key on, should get good pulsing flow of fuel there....
Would it only add more confabulation to suggest cracking a line between injection pump and injector to see if fuel is being supplied to injector? If there's no fuel to injector THEN it might be a good idea to test for fuel flow to injection pump. After a report on results,we would have a better idea what to do next.
ve9aa
Well-known member
Equipment
TG1860, BX2380 -backblade, bx2830 snowblower, fel, weight box,pallet forks,etc
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I tend to agree it is fuel delivery problem and not electrical. If you used a battery terminal that clamps onto the battery cable wire, you should go ahead and replace that cable with a good new cable sooner than later to prevent any problems with that in the near future.
Investigate the fuel flow to the injector pump so you know how much fuel is being delivered there. If you are going to see if fuel is actually reaching the injectors then do that at the injector, do not mess with the fuel lines at the injector pump unless you know what you are doing and what you could mess up there.
You could also try to rig up something to feed fuel through an inline filter directly to the injector pump to see if it runs that way.
There is probably some sort of fuel shutoff solenoid at the injector pump that is not working. If the tractor shuts down by the key, I would recommend starting your investigation with the shutoff solenoid system.
Investigate the fuel flow to the injector pump so you know how much fuel is being delivered there. If you are going to see if fuel is actually reaching the injectors then do that at the injector, do not mess with the fuel lines at the injector pump unless you know what you are doing and what you could mess up there.
You could also try to rig up something to feed fuel through an inline filter directly to the injector pump to see if it runs that way.
There is probably some sort of fuel shutoff solenoid at the injector pump that is not working. If the tractor shuts down by the key, I would recommend starting your investigation with the shutoff solenoid system.
I have looked for a fuel solenoid around the injector pump. However I can not find anything that has a wire going to it at that location. Anyone know where it is located.
I checked all the fuzes just as a precaution. The next test would be to see if fuel is getting to the injectors since i can't identify the fuel solenoid. I have looked at diagrams of the fuel system and the electrical system and can't identify a fuel solenoid.
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Look for this part #190 apparently on top right hand corner of engine
Go to Kubota website for more specific information since I just guessed at your L3800 model number
apps.kubotausa.com
Go to Kubota website for more specific information since I just guessed at your L3800 model number
Kubota Tractor Corporation - Illustrated Parts List
- K-PAD - Parts Lists - Illustrated Parts Lists - diagrams
Thanks Russell. I had found this page finally. I was looking in the fuel and electrical sections and finally started looking in the engine section. I took the solenoid off and tested it. it would not energize. Then i tested the wiring to the solenoid. I could get no reading but accidentally started the engine. It ran a little rough and at very low RPMs and finally cut off thankfully. I still need to continue to check the wiring to ensure I'm getting 12 volts to the solenoid.Look for this part #190 apparently on top right hand corner of engine
View attachment 113876
Go to Kubota website for more specific information since I just guessed at your L3800 model number
Kubota Tractor Corporation - Illustrated Parts List
- K-PAD - Parts Lists - Illustrated Parts Lists - diagrams
I appreciate everybody's help and comments.
I'm still a little perplexed about why the starter wouldn't engage those times. But hope I've corrected that with the maintenance I pulled on the battery and cable.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
I 'think' #100 in the diagram is the 'manual shutoff'...Others will know.
You should KNOW how to manual shutdown the engine...just in case...
Good that it did start ! rough is understandable('rich' from several nostarts.)
You should KNOW how to manual shutdown the engine...just in case...
Good that it did start ! rough is understandable('rich' from several nostarts.)
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I think there is some arcane reference to the engine section from the fuel pipe section
see the strange reference to fig no 0202XX below. I’m not sure what that really means but I started looking into the sections of parts in the 2### section and found that part.
since it starts you can run it without the solenoid as long as you know how to manually shut it off.
I’m glad I was able to help you locate the solenoid