Tractor operating for new owner

[paul888]

I will be getting a LX2610 delivered next week. I was just reviewing the manual and I was surprised that there wasn't much information on actually operating the tractor. I am new to tractors so trying to identify basic operating information such as:

- What RPM should I be at for a given task (moving the tractor, using the loader, using a box blade)?
- Should I be in 2WD at all times unless I lose traction?
- Should I always use low gear for loader work or only if it struggles in medium?

I know that a lot of things are going to be tied to the specific operation in the specific environment at that point in time. I am just looking for some basic guidance.

The manual states: "Do not run the engine at speeds faster than necessary" - I am just not sure what necessary equates to in this situation. Is there a base RPM I should use for everything and then just increase the throttle if I am not able to perform the task at hand?

 

[will721]

We have the same tractor so I'll give my $.02. Mind you I haven't owned it for more than a few months, but I am very familiar with a large variety of equipment, diesels and hydraulics in general.

Engine speed varies depending on task, I prefer low speeds just for less wear and tear and it also makes the hydraulics less touchy. After warm up I increase idle just enough that the engine smooths out. Generally I'm not moving material far, so for loader work I run low gear and just above idle. Unless I'm getting close to payload capacity or moving material over a large distance then I'll throttle up and/or switch to medium speed for transport. High gear I only use on paved surfaces. While I have tested it and the tractor is more than capable of high speed over dirt my spine disagrees.

For pto attachments there is a button to the right of the screen that switches to show pto rpm rather than engine rpm. PTO rpm is 540 for most tasks. Also just a tip, do not engage pto with the 3pt raised all the way. Move it to just above the height you plan on using the implement before engaging. Straight drive shafts are happy drive shafts. Also idle the tractor all the way down before engaging the pto and ramping the rpms back up slowly once engaged.

Drag implements you can go about as fast as you're comfortable. Speed = Momentum which will keep you from getting stuck. But pulling something into a strong root or rock at high speed isn't a good idea either. So start slow and increase speed as needed. The exact speed varies based on environment and what you are smoothing out.

4wd should only be used as needed and never on pavement. Don't wait until your stuck or anything, but its not really necessary to just drive across a field or driving on gravel.

 

[lmpres]

Spend some time on youtube. There are a lot of good videos there.

https://www.youtube.com/@MessicksEquip

Has some good info and there are many others.

One thing to always remember, BE SAFE! Wear the seat belt. Be carful on hills. Pay attention to your surroundings when moving, when a tractor starts moving it doesn't want to stop.

You'll be a pro before you know it.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Good day.
Well you’re off to a great start and f reading the manual. I am not sure you are familiar with messicks or not, but if not they have a lot if helpful videos. Also check out Tractor Mike he has some helpful videos too.
IMO get comfortable with the controls before you get too happy with the throttle. Depending on you property and what you plan to do, tractors can be tippy…so I’d watch some videos on that and also I’d think about learning how to dump the loader…that can be your friend in a tippy situation (think about ballast).

Think: Go as slow as possible and as fast as necessary.

keep the rubber side down .

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

Like others said, watch videos and practice, practice. Also, your delivery driver should help you with the basics when he / she delivers your new tractor. They're usually pretty good about answering questions and actually helping you operate it the first time.

 

[D2Cat]

We have the same tractor so I'll give my $.02. Mind you I haven't owned it for more than a few months, but I am very familiar with a large variety of equipment, diesels and hydraulics in general.

Engine speed varies depending on task, I prefer low speeds just for less wear and tear and it also makes the hydraulics less touchy. After warm up I increase idle just enough that the engine smooths out. Generally I'm not moving material far, so for loader work I run low gear and just above idle. Unless I'm getting close to payload capacity or moving material over a large distance then I'll throttle up and/or switch to medium speed for transport. High gear I only use on paved surfaces. While I have tested it and the tractor is more than capable of high speed over dirt my spine disagrees.

For pto attachments there is a button to the right of the screen that switches to show pto rpm rather than engine rpm. PTO rpm is 540 for most tasks. Also just a tip, do not engage pto with the 3pt raised all the way. Move it to just above the height you plan on using the implement before engaging. Straight drive shafts are happy drive shafts. Also idle the tractor all the way down before engaging the pto and ramping the rpms back up slowly once engaged.

Drag implements you can go about as fast as you're comfortable. Speed = Momentum which will keep you from getting stuck. But pulling something into a strong root or rock at high speed isn't a good idea either. So start slow and increase speed as needed. The exact speed varies based on environment and what you are smoothing out.

4wd should only be used as needed and never on DRY pavement. Don't wait until your stuck or anything, but its not really necessary to just drive across a field or driving on gravel.

 

[beckmurph]

Traveling down hill with anything in the loader bucket, make sure you are in 4 wheel drive. (Off pavement)
Your new tractor has brakes on the rear axle only.

 

[retiree-urgency abandoned]

Hi and congratulations on your new tractor! There's a lot of good info and suggestions on this site that will help you enjoy your new machine and live to talk about it. You will occasionally read about "pucker moments" on this site - often connected with having one or more wheels (unintentionally) in the air.

Couple of thoughts for you:

1. If you have cell coverage where you'll be using your new machine, keep your cell phone handy - always nice to be able to call for help, if needed. If you don't have cell coverage, a decent pair of walkie talkies can be had for less than $100.

2. Walk the area that you're going to be working. There are numerous pucker moments I could have avoided if I had just taken the time to walk the site before having a wheel or 2 spinning in the air.

3. Keep your FEL low - it lowers your center of gravity. If you're moving a sizable log with forks or have an unbalanced load of gravel in your bucket, it's pretty easy to hit a dip in the ground as you're traveling with the load and your tractor may feel like a rear wheel is leaving the ground or (worse) that it's going to roll. If that happens, lower your FEL to the ground ASAP, this usually stabilizes the situation so that you can take a timeout and rethink your plan of action.

So work smart, be safe and enjoy your new machine!

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

Go straight up hills. As in, don't go up steep areas at an angle until you get a feel for the tractors tipping point. Don't drive sideways on slopes.

Conventional tractors are kinda like a tricycle when you consider the center of gravity layout. The two rear wheels and the front axle center pivot makes it like a tricycle. The front axle does have a tilt stopping point but once you've found that on side slope, you'll remember it if you survive. So keep your implements low on slopes. Make yourself ready and a make it a trained and natural response to shove the loader stick all the way forward into "float" to drop the bucket if you start tipping.

They outlawed 3 wheeled ATV's (tricycle layout) in the USA many years ago due to tipping over deaths.

 

[Vlach7]

Use the auto level on your FEL, I had a large log roll out when lifting only to be stopped by the ROP, would have killed me if it was some of the boulders I have carried. Had an old larger tractor before that did not have that problem.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Paul, I'm new to Tractor'n too.

All good advice above, but the one that sticks out at me is the keeping the FEL as low as possible.

I was carrying some wet sod on a pallet 2 weeks ago and as I turned down hill (on my 'city boy' driveway) the General Lee was on 3 wheels before I knew it.

Pucker factor 10 for sure, but because I had it only "X" inchs off the ground the pallet hit before things got to Def Con 4.

Paul

 

[Foxrunfarms]

Congrats on the buy. I've had the same model for 4 months now......no regrets other than not getting it sooner.

All very good points so far. The tractor is not a race car or a bull dozer. You see/read/hear a lot of horror stories of " this tractor is a piece of junk" after someone miss used it past it's limits. You're off to a good start reading the manual and joining here. Your dealer didn't give you a walk around or explain anything? I've been running equipment on my parents dairy farm since 8 years old so know my way around stuff and even knew somethings more than the sales guy but he walked me around different models that fell into my needs and after the tractor was set up he had my wife and I come in had her move it around showed us on removing the deck and loader. Then gave us a basket of shirts, hats, bottles and a case of beer for our business. The new tractor might be intimidating but be smart and play around with it. You'll get the feel of it.

 

[D2Cat]

Use the auto level on your FEL, I had a large log roll out when lifting only to be stopped by the ROP, would have killed me if it was some of the boulders I have carried. Had an old larger tractor before that did not have that problem.

The only "auto level" on my tractor loader is a function of my eyes, brain and hand movements in a combined fashion!!!!!

 

[will721]

The only "auto level" on my tractor loader is a function of my eyes, brain and hand movements in a combined fashion!!!!!

Ditto, and god help you if ya gotta scratch your ass cause then you have to stop everything or risk a brain overload.

 

[Trustable]

I’m new as well, having just a year of experience. One thing I really have Learned is to go slow. Especially when doing work and not just driving it around. Don’t rush doing any job because you will screw up eventually and possibly damage something. I always keep the rops up as well, i Think that is arguably one of the most important personal safety things. Another thing is to give yourself plenty of clearance. If you think It will be tight, don’t do it. The loader/3pt attachment hangs out a lot more than a car hood and the way the tractor turns is a lot different than a vehicle. (a Bucket corner on a tractor barely moving will punch a hole in siding, I would know ) Also make or use a rear ballast. i did a 55 gallon plastic drum 3/4 filled (I think 11 bags)with concrete. I feel much more stable with a load in bucket. the Ballast I made is easily double the weight of the box blade I have so it makes a huge difference. Forrpm/gearing here is my two cents:

• Low gear
  • idle speed barely moving - pulling in and out of garage or during 3 point turns
  • 1700- moving with a very heavy load in the bucket or lifting with bucket
  • 1900 to 2000- loader work, 3pt work
  • max - used a handful of times when trying to break up and dig dirt.
• medium
  • 1700 to 2000 - driving around with or without load in bucket
  • 2000 - loader or 3pt work
• high
  • 2000 - driving on Road

 

[retired farmer]

Congrats on the buy. I've had the same model for 4 months now......no regrets other than not getting it sooner.
View attachment 106851
All very good points so far. The tractor is not a race car or a bull dozer. You see/read/hear a lot of horror stories of " this tractor is a piece of junk" after someone miss used it past it's limits. You're off to a good start reading the manual and joining here. Your dealer didn't give you a walk around or explain anything? I've been running equipment on my parents dairy farm since 8 years old so know my way around stuff and even knew somethings more than the sales guy but he walked me around different models that fell into my needs and after the tractor was set up he had my wife and I come in had her move it around showed us on removing the deck and loader. Then gave us a basket of shirts, hats, bottles and a case of beer for our business. The new tractor might be intimidating but be smart and play around with it. You'll get the feel of it.
[/QUOTE
A case of beer!! Boy I got stiffed! I only got 2 caps.
Oh, and don't forget to have rear ballast.
rr

 

[Virtual Guy]

For using the loader, especially for dirt work, add weight at or behind the rear axle. Filled tires or a ballast on the 3 pt hitch are common. Even the box blade helps but you'll probably want more weight than that.

I knew it was needed on my l2501 but I was still surprised at how much it helped.

 

[fried1765]

For using the loader, especially for dirt work, add weight at or behind the rear axle. Filled tires or a ballast on the 3 pt hitch are common. Even the box blade helps but you'll probably want more weight than that.

I knew it was needed on my l2501 but I was still surprised at how much it helped.

On my L48 I carry a Kubota BT1100 BH for ballast.
1953 lbs+ 240 lb. bucket
Works great,..... but not so great in tight maneuvering spots.

On my little 32 HP Ford 1920 FEL, I use a pallet on my 3pt. forks, and a 55 gal drum filled with water.
About 500+ lbs.