Tractor newbie transmission woes (b6200)

[seant]

Hi All,
I recently got a very used b6200hst that up until now was in what I thought was great shape. 4wd appeared to work. I've mowed with a brush cutter with the rear PTO and the loader works well.

I just tried out a box blade and it looks like I'm not getting any appreciable torque to the rear wheels. In 2wd it pulls fine on flat ground but under and load with the box down it just whirs and doesn't move. In 4wd the front wheels will spin but the rears continue to just sit there.

I'm a little concerned that I may have a big problem on my hands I'm not super experienced with diesel engines or transmissions. I do have all the manuals and parts manuals and can probably figure things out with some help but really don't know where to start.

Any and all help would be appreciated. What a great first post, right?

Thanks,
Sean

 

[RCW]

Check here for a workshop manual:

http://kubotabooks.com/

 

[hodge]

Welcome to the forum, even if it is a problem that brought you here!
Does it make any noises as you try to work it? Grinding, etc.? I would cease using it to mitigate more damage to it, until you can get it fixed.

 

[seant]

No bad noises or anything, just what I would describe as whirring. There was no bad clunk, crash or snap which precipitated it. I checked the trans fluid level and it seems ok. The wheels aren't spinning inside the tire which is something I read could happen.

I haven't tried it with the diff lock engaged so I'll probably check that out next.

I've downloaded all the manuals from kubotabooks. Popping open the rear diff doesn't seem too difficult so that may be the next step.

The WSM for the b6200 from the above site is incomplete, unfortunately. Is the 6200 enough like that 51/7100 that I can use those WSMs for the most part to get everything opened up?

Thanks,
Sean

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes try the diff lock.
The fact that you can spin the front tires and stall the rear tires, tells me that it's either the ring and pinion or it's the spider gears in the diff, or maybe a bad final drive, as one being stripped would cause the other to lose power.
The front drive is driven off a gear that is connected to the pinion shaft for the rear so that rules out a stripped connecting collar.

I'll send you a link for a download of the full manual.

 

[seant]

Now I am super confused. I went out this morning to try out the diff lock and even before trying that I'm able to get all 4 wheels to spin. I'm at a loss to explain what happened but it looks like all is working now.

However, it has revealed that I'm seriously traction limited even digging in the scarifers a tiny bit results in all wheel slippage. I suspect the tires are at the least ancient and possibly original.

Stock is 6-12 7-16 but 8-16 are given as a possibility in the Ops manual. I'd like to get as much traction as possible so is it practical to move to 6-12 8-16?

Probably will fill them with some sort of liquid too.