Tractor for 10 NY acres of flat, clay soil and wetland forest?

[atarax]

First time tractor purchase here in rural Western New York. I have 10 residential acres, a bit more than half of which is flat and mowable (I use a Zero-Turn with a 60" deck). Will use tractor for several projects, and general property maintenance. I have been steered into a L2501 by the local dealers that I have spoken with.

Winter: Regional snowfall averages 85" a year, not uncommon to have several feet at once
Long Ashphalt Drive approx 350' and 100'square area parking lot.
Looking at 64" rear mount snowblower. Would consider hydraulic controls but will probably end up trying to save money with a manual chute rotation and deflection. Anyone think the hydraulics are worth it? With the extra position lever kits and self cancelling detent valve sections, this adds more than $3500 just for rotation.

Spring: Mud and Downed trees and Limbs
Looking at a 60" claw grapple for trees and brush piles with 3rd function valve
Probably R4 tires despite mud and surface water

Summer & Fall: Brush cleanup and cut areas with long grass
Brush hog around an unmaintained pond that needs clean up
Long grass that couldn't be cut because of wet land earlier in the year and edges of property
Would like to cut trails in the woods for ATVs and walks
Looking at 60" Rotary cutter RCR1860

To mitigate some of the surface water I have, I want to get a 72" rear blade to pull some swales across the property to help water drain into my drainage ditch.

Eventually I may invest in a backhoe to clean and slope a drainage ditch that runs approx 400' from the back of my house to a low lying swamp.

I started my search by thinking a BX would be enough, but now I am trying to think big.

 

[PortTackFarm]

If clearing that much snow were a big part of what I needed a tractor for, I'd be looking at a cab tractor, maybe LX2610 or LX3310. Rear hydraulics are worthwhile, especially if you think you might want top and tilt functions like with the rear blade. I think the LX has a mid PTO so you could even do a front mounted snow blower. Of course this is quite a bit more money than an L2501. You should get lots of comments and opinions. Unless you have lots of uses for a backhoe, that's not something I'd invest in - much easier to rent a backhoe or mini excavator for the specific projects it's needed for. Good luck with you decision making.

 

[atarax]

If clearing that much snow were a big part of what I needed a tractor for, I'd be looking at a cab tractor, maybe LX2610 or LX3310. Rear hydraulics are worthwhile, especially if you think you might want top and tilt functions like with the rear blade. I think the LX has a mid PTO so you could even do a front mounted snow blower. Of course this is quite a bit more money than an L2501. You should get lots of comments and opinions. Unless you have lots of uses for a backhoe, that's not something I'd invest in - much easier to rent a backhoe or mini excavator for the specific projects it's needed for. Good luck with you decision making.

The options are endless as long as your money is. I suppose I figured a good ski mask and goggles would keep me covered; although I get how convenient a cab would be in the blowing snow. I thought about the top n tilt, but didn't think my little property and few projects warranted the extra expense. Now if I was running it 8hrs a day landscaping, then sure. The L2501 with the attachments I want would put me somewhere at $38K (leaving the backhoe out). The LX2610 with cab and front residential snowblower is already $44K without the grapple, blade or rotary cutter (around another $7500). Too rich for me. I can understand the reasoning about renting the miniexcavator for my specific projects.

Thanks for your reply! This was just the sort of opinion I'm looking for to inform this decision!

 

[PaulL]

No real experience with snow. But reading threads over time here tells me that hydraulic chute is useful if you are adjusting where you're putting the snow. If your property is reasonably open, and you just put the snow "off to the right somewhere", then no need to adjust the chute every 2 minutes. And therefore I'd spend that money on something else. But if that parking lot or the drive need the snow shot out in a particular direction for whatever reason (away from the house maybe?) then could be worth your while.

One thing to check is whether you can reach the chute from the seat - if you can lean over the back and adjust it by hand, no real need for hydraulic adjust. I think it's more useful when you have a cab - because adjusting otherwise means getting out of the cab and walking round.

On that size property a B01 is doable, as is the LX. The L is definitely best value for money if you don't need a mid PTO (which you don't if you're going rear blower and already have a mower), and don't need a cab.

Snow blowing and brush hogging both use a bit of HP. And the L02 model is better than the L01 model (check out the Messicks video). Stepping up to the L3302 may be a good idea for both those reasons.

You'll want the FEL with SSQA (skid steer quick attach), forks make sense for many many reasons and are inexpensive. You don't have to buy them day one though - you need to leave your significant other room to buy you birthday presents.

You will need rear ballast of some sort. I personally like a ballast box, plenty of folks on here will tell you to ballast your tires but that doesn't reduce load on the front axle the same as a ballast box does, and it also can't be removed when you're driving over your wet lawn, or when you're trailering the tractor for some reason. Again, you can get by with the rotary cutter as ballast until your significant other buys you a ballast box for your birthday, but it makes it a bit harder to manoeuvre in the woods.

For some reason I believe the RCR1860 is the lighter duty series of rotary cutter, but I can't see that information when I look. I had the idea there was a heavier duty one. But maybe the 12 series is the lighter duty one? Something to look out for.

On tires, sound like you have wet, and you're not doing a lot of lawn work. For traction in wet I think it goes:
- Turf (least)
- R4
- R14
- R1

Do you have a particular need for R4 tires? I suspect R14 would do less turf damage, have more traction in the wet, and probably have more traction in snow too. Are they maybe also a bit cheaper than R4? Others can comment, but putting it out there.

Swales is a thing you might want top and tilt for. Although, again, I find on my ROPS tractor I can lean over the back and adjust things, and I don't do blade work that often. If I had a choice between top and tilt and a grapple I'd take the grapple.

 

[Mark_BX25D]

I started my search by thinking a BX would be enough, but now I am trying to think big.

I'm thinking a BX is probably a bit light for your property. But.... you can often get the same work done as a bigger tractor, it just takes longer.

However, not always. I was running a trench one time and encountered a 10" diameter sycamore root. My BX backhoe would barely wiggle it. I also knew there were stumps from a big oak and a few cedars in my path. I rented a JD 310 for the weekend. The JD whipped that sycamore root out of there like it was nothing.

Size matters.

A lot depends on your time, patience, and $$ budget.

 

[woodman55]

Money is always a big factor, and better to stay in your budget than to over extend your self, just in case something bad happens.

BUT, when it comes to blowing snow, cabs are awesome! I did the open station and manual blower thing for many years, but now really appreciate the cab and front mounted blower.

Keep your eyes open for a good used machine, that way you can upgrade later without losing a bunch of money. Plus it lets you get a better feel for what you need.

A BX will do a lot, it just takes more time.

 

[fishpick]

We live in western NY. Higher snowfall totals here off Lake Ontario.
If you get a open station you will wish you had a cab. Best investment / upgrade ever for me was the cab.
Our drive is a tick over 1/3 mile and I can also tell you a rear mount is a literal pain in the neck.

I’d get a cab. And I’d get a front mount blower. Had I started with that I’d have saved a lot of money.

you are in a good buying time with todays options - the LX cab models get you all you need at a decent price with all the options you have beyond snow. That’s where I’d be looking if I was in your shoes.

As for tire choice.If your soil is clay in any way. Do not go R4.

My first tractor was a BX24 and that Thing is a tank. Will do everything you ask if it, just slower with smaller attachments.
Still. If snow is a big part of its life - and in NY it is - think long and hard about a cab.

 

[TheOldHokie]

The options are endless as long as your money is. I suppose I figured a good ski mask and goggles would keep me covered; although I get how convenient a cab would be in the blowing snow. I thought about the top n tilt, but didn't think my little property and few projects warranted the extra expense. Now if I was running it 8hrs a day landscaping, then sure. The L2501 with the attachments I want would put me somewhere at $38K (leaving the backhoe out). The LX2610 with cab and front residential snowblower is already $44K without the grapple, blade or rotary cutter (around another $7500). Too rich for me. I can understand the reasoning about renting the miniexcavator for my specific projects.

Thanks for your reply! This was just the sort of opinion I'm looking for to inform this decision!

Dont fret over the hydraulics on a L01 - you can easily add a multi-spool valve for a tenth of the cost of OEM. If you can't afford/justify a cab (I could not) the L2501 is more tractor and the incremental cost for an L3901 is small.

Dan

 

[mikester]

Tractors | Antonio Carraro | Tractor People

Since 1910 N1 of tractors for specialized agriculture. Multi-purpose, reversible tractors, Made in Italy.

www.antoniocarraro.it

 

[atarax]

No real experience with snow. But reading threads over time here tells me that hydraulic chute is useful if you are adjusting where you're putting the snow. If your property is reasonably open, and you just put the snow "off to the right somewhere", then no need to adjust the chute every 2 minutes. And therefore I'd spend that money on something else. But if that parking lot or the drive need the snow shot out in a particular direction for whatever reason (away from the house maybe?) then could be worth your while.

One thing to check is whether you can reach the chute from the seat - if you can lean over the back and adjust it by hand, no real need for hydraulic adjust. I think it's more useful when you have a cab - because adjusting otherwise means getting out of the cab and walking round.

On that size property a B01 is doable, as is the LX. The L is definitely best value for money if you don't need a mid PTO (which you don't if you're going rear blower and already have a mower), and don't need a cab.

Snow blowing and brush hogging both use a bit of HP. And the L02 model is better than the L01 model (check out the Messicks video). Stepping up to the L3302 may be a good idea for both those reasons.

You'll want the FEL with SSQA (skid steer quick attach), forks make sense for many many reasons and are inexpensive. You don't have to buy them day one though - you need to leave your significant other room to buy you birthday presents.

You will need rear ballast of some sort. I personally like a ballast box, plenty of folks on here will tell you to ballast your tires but that doesn't reduce load on the front axle the same as a ballast box does, and it also can't be removed when you're driving over your wet lawn, or when you're trailering the tractor for some reason. Again, you can get by with the rotary cutter as ballast until your significant other buys you a ballast box for your birthday, but it makes it a bit harder to manoeuvre in the woods.

For some reason I believe the RCR1860 is the lighter duty series of rotary cutter, but I can't see that information when I look. I had the idea there was a heavier duty one. But maybe the 12 series is the lighter duty one? Something to look out for.

On tires, sound like you have wet, and you're not doing a lot of lawn work. For traction in wet I think it goes:
- Turf (least)
- R4
- R14
- R1

Do you have a particular need for R4 tires? I suspect R14 would do less turf damage, have more traction in the wet, and probably have more traction in snow too. Are they maybe also a bit cheaper than R4? Others can comment, but putting it out there.

Swales is a thing you might want top and tilt for. Although, again, I find on my ROPS tractor I can lean over the back and adjust things, and I don't do blade work that often. If I had a choice between top and tilt and a grapple I'd take the grapple.

All good points! I would be adjusting the chute often, as there are several structures around the lot that I need to blow the snow away from. Not a set it and forget it configuration. I think it’s pretty easy to manually crank, but a lot of looking and working backwards.
As for the L3302, I am just not sure about a base price with tires increase of $5K. Am I gonna miss the 8hp at the PTO?
I was also looking at the R14s… Messicks did a video about some zig-zag pattern too that had good pull in wet and was easy to drive on roads too.

 

[atarax]

Money is always a big factor, and better to stay in your budget than to over extend your self, just in case something bad happens.

BUT, when it comes to blowing snow, cabs are awesome! I did the open station and manual blower thing for many years, but now really appreciate the cab and front mounted blower.

Keep your eyes open for a good used machine, that way you can upgrade later without losing a bunch of money. Plus it lets you get a better feel for what you need.

A BX will do a lot, it just takes more time.

This is a nearby used on tractorhouse for $24,900. “Very clean 2019 Kubota B2650 compact tractor equipped with cab/heat, 4x4, hydrostatic transmission, turf tires, radio, mid PTO, and a 51" front mounted snowblower with power chute rotation/deflection. This tractor is powered by a 25hp diesel engine and only has 225 hours on it.”
Then I’d need to add the FEL and bucket for $6K and the other attachments I was looking at for $7500. Taking me to $38400.

 

[atarax]

This is a nearby used on tractorhouse for $24,900. “Very clean 2019 Kubota B2650 compact tractor equipped with cab/heat, 4x4, hydrostatic transmission, turf tires, radio, mid PTO, and a 51" front mounted snowblower with power chute rotation/deflection. This tractor is powered by a 25hp diesel engine and only has 225 hours on it.”
Then I’d need to add the FEL and bucket for $6K and the other attachments I was looking at for $7500. Taking me to $38400.

Oh, and a new set of tires wheels to swap on and off for wet work.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

If you're young and healthy, a rear mtd snowblower is ok.....for long straight runs..... They aren't 'fun' for us older guys with health issues. Manual chutes are fine, you just PLAN your attack against the white ! Usually only need 2-3 adjustments for clearing.
Maybe price out SSQA gas powered snowblowers ? Being SSQA you can quickly swap between tools.
If this is your 'forever homestead', consider purchases that'll make your life easy 5,10,20 years from now.

 

[RBsingl]

With a lot of snow, listen to the guys about getting a cab. I live in central IL where there isn't nearly so much snow and although I have a 3 pt snowblower, I haven't used it in over 10 years now because it is so rare in recent years to get much snow at once and the blade, sometimes with a little help from the loader for a drift, using my 33HP Deere 955 compact utility easily handles the amount of snow on my 500 feet of driveway. BUT no matter which way you direct the chute, if there is much wind you will have snow swirling around and blowing on you. So go with a cab for frequent snowblower usage!

As Jay noted, rear mounted implements for snow removal get tiresome depending upon how much time you spend using them. I like snow but I am also glad the typical amounts in Central IL can generally be very quickly removed with a blade.

Photo below shows the typical "fun" of the swirling snow from a tractor mount snowblower without a cab. A blade and loader don't create your own personal blizzard like the blower And drifting is something you will deal with if you are in a windy very rural location like mine where the loader is often faster than a blower for taking out compacted "chunks" from a big drift. If using a snowblower was a frequent activity, I would be ordering a cab and the front mount snowblower for my Kubota F2690 I ordered to take over most mowing chores from the Deere compact.

 

[Tughill Tom]

This is a nearby used on tractorhouse for $24,900. “Very clean 2019 Kubota B2650 compact tractor equipped with cab/heat, 4x4, hydrostatic transmission, turf tires, radio, mid PTO, and a 51" front mounted snowblower with power chute rotation/deflection. This tractor is powered by a 25hp diesel engine and only has 225 hours on it.”
Then I’d need to add the FEL and bucket for $6K and the other attachments I was looking at for $7500. Taking me to $38400.

For your acreage this one would be my pick. I have 40 acres on the Tug and have a B3200 with front mount blower, FEL with a Curtis cab and love it, granted i get over 200" a year up here and wouldn't have a tractor without a cab and heat.

 

[johnjk]

I’m in Central Ohio on mostly flat 25 acres. Mix of fields, farmed acreage and woods. We got muddy slick clay and everything you get except the snowfall. I had my BIL 25 horse JD out to help do the initial clear and it struggled. When I purchased I went for a higher HP and ended up with a low hr B3200. I wish it had the SSQA for my FEL but overall works well. I have a Woods RC5 for brush hogging, a 4’ back blade and box blade as well as a 4’ disc. I have ag tires and they do well in the mud and snow. If you get ice, get chains and make sure you have weight. Loaded tires or front weights. With the B series it is a narrower wheel base so I put on spacers which really helps the stability.
As far as a cab, yeah a couple times a year I want one but get a good canopy and it will keep the sun off and somewhat dry.
Mowing is done with an old B1700 with a mmm. Not super fast but does the job.

 

[atarax]

With a lot of snow, listen to the guys about getting a cab. I live in central IL where there isn't nearly so much snow and although I have a 3 pt snowblower, I haven't used it in over 10 years now because it is so rare in recent years to get much snow at once and the blade, sometimes with a little help from the loader for a drift, using my 33HP Deere 955 compact utility easily handles the amount of snow on my 500 feet of driveway. BUT no matter which way you direct the chute, if there is much wind you will have snow swirling around and blowing on you. So go with a cab for frequent snowblower usage!

As Jay noted, rear mounted implements for snow removal get tiresome depending upon how much time you spend using them. I like snow but I am also glad the typical amounts in Central IL can generally be very quickly removed with a blade.

Photo below shows the typical "fun" of the swirling snow from a tractor mount snowblower without a cab. A blade and loader don't create your own personal blizzard like the blower And drifting is something you will deal with if you are in a windy very rural location like mine where the loader is often faster than a blower for taking out compacted "chunks" from a big drift. If using a snowblower was a frequent activity, I would be ordering a cab and the front mount snowblower for my Kubota F2690 I ordered to take over most mowing chores from the Deere compact.

View attachment 83510 View attachment 83511 View attachment 83512

This is good advice! I live just North East of Buffalo, so less snow than the southern Tier off Lake Erie, but still get a good amount of blizzards.
I’ll go look at the used B series near me that is set up with the cab and front blower. I’m hesitant to loose the FEL with the front blower.

 

[RBsingl]

This is good advice! I live just North East of Buffalo, so less snow than the southern Tier off Lake Erie, but still get a good amount of blizzards.
I’ll go look at the used B series near me that is set up with the cab and front blower. I’m hesitant to loose the FEL with the front blower.

With all of the available cameras now, you might be able to mount a camera looking back making a rear mounted snow blower more convenient than having to look back over your shoulder. A plexiglass box for the camera with an electric windshield wiper would probably be a pretty easy to arrange setup.

 

[Tughill Tom]

This is good advice! I live just North East of Buffalo, so less snow than the southern Tier off Lake Erie, but still get a good amount of blizzards.
I’ll go look at the used B series near me that is set up with the cab and front blower. I’m hesitant to loose the FEL with the front blower.

I can change over from one to the other in under 15 minutes in the garage really EZ and I'm an old guy. LOL

 

[atarax]

Talked to Bobcat dealer about options, either buying used or bobcat new. He was actually super helpful. He persuaded me that I may not even need a snowblower at first, and wait and see how often it would be useful before investing. In my more northeastern WNY location, we don’t get as much of the Lake Effect snow drop as the south towns. He suggested that he clears his drive with an angled back blade and his bucket. I have a walk behind snow blower anyways for any cleanup close to the house and such.



So they have a Used 2021 CT2025 open ROPS with FEL and QC bucket, standard 3point hitch, and R4 tires that only has 41.5 hours on it and has an extended 5 year warranty until August of 2026. I would have to add 3rd function rail and possibly some upgrades to the 3 point hitch. About $2k for top n tilt and $7000 for my attachments. So I’d be in for something around $30k plus tax. To go for a new CT2025 would start at $24Kish.