I've not washed mine yet. Big clods of mud will knock right off once dried. I hand clean around the zerks with a rag before lubing. Are tractors supposed to be clean??
most of the time my tractor will sit dirty. Once or twice a year I will clean it really well. This makes any maintenance on it a lot easier. I also clean all the zerks after greasing, I hate it when I find the left over grease with my hands.I've not washed mine yet. Big clods of mud will knock right off once dried. I hand clean around the zerks with a rag before lubing. Are tractors supposed to be clean??
Apparently spit polished as well.Are tractors supposed to be clean??
do you think a system like that could be installed right at my well pump? and do the entire house? my work computer blocks amazon so the link wont work.For my cars, I installed a DI (de-ionized water) rinse system. My well water makes some nasty water spots unless it is towel dried immediately, the DI water rinse reduces the water spots. I'll probably use it on the tractor and other equipment since it is right there ready for use. Since it is expensive to change out the media, I do it quickly and only use it for the final rinse.
Systm
This is basically what I do. Wash a couple times a year, spray wax once a year, leaf blower to blow the loose crap off and or just the water hose for the slightly more stubborn stuff. Having it waxed really helps the debris slide right off. Actually, as I think about it I probably wax my hood numerous times a year. If I use a fuel cam to add fuel there’s no way I’m not getting some on the hood, so then I’ll go ahead and wash and wax it again.At least in my case, I am spending about 1.5 hours (approximately 45 minutes every 6 months) a year washing/waxing my tractor. I consider that a reasonable effort to expend for an expensive piece of equipment.
Using a leaf blower (or compressed air) to clean off and out chaff as needed (more than 1.5 hours a year) is required for good operation and fire safety.
All that pressure washers really need is a common sense, informed user/operator.Pressure washers are good, but they'll blast off decals and all. I'd just spritz on some Simple Green or Purple and let sit and then wash with a water hose. Pressure washers are too high pressure for the gasketry and all and those decals.
Used to clean dirty engines by wetting and then sprinkling powder Tide over the wet surfaces and let sit and hose off. Lot safer than using gasoline.
What type and color grease do you use on your joints?If you use a pressure washer be sure to re-grease everything right after to push the water out of your joints.
To do a whole house system you would need to talk to a company that provides that kind of large scale equipment. The small, inexpensive system that I linked to is best used for treating water for a quick rinse.do you think a system like that could be installed right at my well pump? and do the entire house? my work computer blocks amazon so the link wont work.
Use the liquid car wash soap with wax included.This is basically what I do. Wash a couple times a year, spray wax once a year, leaf blower to blow the loose crap off and or just the water hose for the slightly more stubborn stuff. Having it waxed really helps the debris slide right off. Actually, as I think about it I probably wax my hood numerous times a year. If I use a fuel cam to add fuel there’s no way I’m not getting some on the hood, so then I’ll go ahead and wash and wax it again.
Apparently spit polished as well.
Dan
AGREED!!Since Dad used it on the ‘57 Chrysler…(actually he used kerosene)…. I’ve used this method for washing cars, boats, airplanes, etc.
Buy WD40 in gallon cans. (Smells better than kero and mixes better with water.) Pour 2 or 3 cups of it into a 5-gal bucket and forcefully (garden-hose-nozzle) add 3 or 4 gals water. This makes an emulsion to use instead of soap for washing the vehicle.
k thanks! might just buy one and toss it on the line going to the outside tap!To do a whole house system you would need to talk to a company that provides that kind of large scale equipment. The small, inexpensive system that I linked to is best used for treating water for a quick rinse.
Can't prove or disprove it, but it does work as advertised. Just isn't the best penetrant product out there today.
LVP Aliphatic Hydrocarbon
Petroleum Base Oil
Aliphatic Hydrocarbon
Have you tried this on your Kubota? Does it remove decals or affect rubber/plastic?Since Dad used it on the ‘57 Chrysler…(actually he used kerosene)…. I’ve used this method for washing cars, boats, airplanes, etc.
Buy WD40 in gallon cans. (Smells better than kero and mixes better with water.) Pour 2 or 3 cups of it into a 5-gal bucket and forcefully (garden-hose-nozzle) add 3 or 4 gals water. This makes an emulsion to use instead of soap for washing the vehicle.
Hose-off the vehicle with plain water, then using a dedicated cotton mop…or sponge…or brush ..(whatever is your favorite)… use the emulsion instead of soap to wash the vehicle.
Then rinse-off with the hose all over the vehicle. No need to “dry”…but using an old towel… wipe-down the vehicle. (The towel will become damp…that’s OK…use it like a chamois.)
The vehicle will be clean and if it gets any water on it (rain, etc) the water will BEAD-UP as if it has been waxed.
Meanwhile, all the rubber weatherstipping, window-seals, door-hinges and latches, hood-hinges/mechanisms…etc etc….. have been LUBRICATED and all squeaks have disappeared.
People ask me….”How often do you polish that thing?”
and my answer is… “I’ve owned it 22 years and never polished it. It was last polished by its’ former owner in 1997.”
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Yes,……“all the rubber weatherstipping, window-seals, door-hinges and latches, hood-hinges/mechanisms…etc etc….. have been LUBRICATED and all squeaks have disappeared.”Have you tried this on your Kubota? Does it remove decals or affect rubber/plastic?