Tow strap recommendation for tree removal?

[HarperHollow'sGhost]

I've got a Shagbark Hickory that broke in a "hinge" break about 15ft up, in a storm a couple years ago. The broken part of the trunk extends down at an angle to the ground maybe 20ft away from the base of the main trunk. My thought on removing it was to attach a long tow strap near the terminal end, close to the ground (but high enough to be attached to a thick beefy section) and pull out to one side in order to break loose what's left of the hinge. I want a tow strap long enough to allow me to be 20-30 feet away from both the remaining lower trunk and the fallen upper trunk.

I don't currently own a tow strap. I have a think logging chain but it's only 8-10 feet long. My question is, since I need to purchase a tow strap, does anyone have an opinion on a good quality tow strap I should buy for this task and other similar tasks I might have in the future? As a follow-up, any advice on how to best attach the other end of the tow strap to the tree? I have a clevis attached to the draw bar and of course in this case, the surface of the downed tree trunk is not a concern (i.e., no need for a "tree saver" unless that's the best method).

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

not sure what uses you may have after this one task but maybe consider a cable in lieu of a strap for lengths like you are thinking.

I have tonnes of straps as large as 25t, but I seem to go to my coils of cable more often for tree stuff. My coils are many decades old and like new.... straps on the other hand seem to get nicked and replaced more often than I would like

my FX/85 logging winch uses 3/8" cable and pulls 8,500# single strand and double with a pully block and compared to strap of same strength the cable is cheap.

 

[Tughill Tom]

Here's my go to on pulling, Using a snatch block .

ttps://www.amazon.com/Polyester-Arborist-Rigging-Hoisting-Strength/dp/B08J4B67GS/ref=sr_1_6?hvadid=4099

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Good day. I think if planning to do tree work steel cable is the way to go. That being said I use a 12.5k winch on 4x4 in a cradle that runs synthetic line…synthetic line drops vs recoils if a break…synthetic does have a shelf life. It’s a lot lighter to carry around but it also absorbs moisture / burrs / mud and you need to let dry before storing…but it is safer. If you do go with a synthetic rope I’d recommend getting some with the loops stitched in and also get the thimbles that fit the loops to protect where your clevis will attach. Either way using pulleys/shackles as MLF suggested is shooting you straight IMO. Am-Steel blue is decent synthetic rope. If going with a true tow strap be cautious what you get…static vs kinetic…there are two types. IMO you do not want to use a kinetic with a tree…as it will absorb energy until it releases it (just fyi if not aware).

 

[N3BP]

I've dropped two oaks leaning like the shagbark you're describing. If it's of decent size, you don't want your machine anywhere near it. Shagbarks are heavy. You think you might have enough machine to yank it down, but trees will always surprise you. You're best and safest bet is to put distance between the tree and machine by way of a winch. In both of my instances, my 9K winch was able to pull them down. I usually use a heavy duty tow strap wrapped around the very bottom of the leaning part, then run both ends of the strap through the winch clevis. I find that the nylon bites into the tree better than the steel winch line.

 

[Flintknapper]

I've got a Shagbark Hickory that broke in a "hinge" break about 15ft up, in a storm a couple years ago. The broken part of the trunk extends down at an angle to the ground maybe 20ft away from the base of the main trunk. My thought on removing it was to attach a long tow strap near the terminal end, close to the ground (but high enough to be attached to a thick beefy section) and pull out to one side in order to break loose what's left of the hinge. I want a tow strap long enough to allow me to be 20-30 feet away from both the remaining lower trunk and the fallen upper trunk.

I don't currently own a tow strap. I have a think logging chain but it's only 8-10 feet long. My question is, since I need to purchase a tow strap, does anyone have an opinion on a good quality tow strap I should buy for this task and other similar tasks I might have in the future? As a follow-up, any advice on how to best attach the other end of the tow strap to the tree? I have a clevis attached to the draw bar and of course in this case, the surface of the downed tree trunk is not a concern (i.e., no need for a "tree saver" unless that's the best method).

I've done what you propose more than a few times....with no issues. HOWEVER, it would be helpful to have a picture of the tree and the terrain around it. Otherwise, we are all 'imagining' the situation....save for what you have told us.

Much depends on how much 'hinge' is left at the break in the trunk, at what direction you might be able to pull (90° or better to the lay of the top as it sits now), whether or the not the holding wood is rotten/dead/compromised or not.

It might not take more than a simple pull to dislodge it.....or it might take a dynamic pull to 'pop' the fallen top off. Hard to say without pics, so I will refrain from offering advice.

 

[The Evil Twin]

The longer the strap, the more energy builds up in it as you pull. Be careful going too long. When they break it is violent. Same goes for cable. D rings placed along the length will help absorb the energy should it break.

 

[HarperHollow'sGhost]

I've done what you propose more than a few times....with no issues. HOWEVER, it would be helpful to have a picture of the tree and the terrain around it. Otherwise, we are all 'imagining' the situation....save for what you have told us.

Much depends on how much 'hinge' is left at the break in the trunk, at what direction you might be able to pull (90° or better to the lay of the top as it sits now), whether or the not the holding wood is rotten/dead/compromised or not.

It might not take more than a simple pull to dislodge it.....or it might take a dynamic pull to 'pop' the fallen top off. Hard to say without pics, so I will refrain from offering advice.

I'll try to go out in the morning and snap a few pics. The Hickory has been down three years if I recall correctly, big derecho storm in early 2020. The good part is, it's in mostly open pasture so I have free range to pull in any direction I need. The bad part is, hickory is tough and like you said, it may not dislodge. I'm hoping 3 years of decay may make it more brittle and likely to break free.

 

[HarperHollow'sGhost]

Here's my go to on pulling, Using a snatch block .

ttps://www.amazon.com/Polyester-Arborist-Rigging-Hoisting-Strength/dp/B08J4B67GS/ref=sr_1_6?hvadid=4099

I've browsed through some of this rope (THANK YOU FOR THE TIP) and I think this is the way I'll need to go at some point now or in the future. Not having a winch a long arborist rope should be really handy, especially for block and tackle work.

 

[HarperHollow'sGhost]

Good day. I think if planning to do tree work steel cable is the way to go. That being said I use a 12.5k winch on 4x4 in a cradle that runs synthetic line…synthetic line drops vs recoils if a break…synthetic does have a shelf life. It’s a lot lighter to carry around but it also absorbs moisture / burrs / mud and you need to let dry before storing…but it is safer. If you do go with a synthetic rope I’d recommend getting some with the loops stitched in and also get the thimbles that fit the loops to protect where your clevis will attach. Either way using pulleys/shackles as MLF suggested is shooting you straight IMO. Am-Steel blue is decent synthetic rope. If going with a true tow strap be cautious what you get…static vs dynamic…there are two types. IMO you do not want to use a dynamic with a tree…as it will absorb energy until it releases it (just fyi if not aware).

Good advice on the sewed loop ends! And will definitely seek out static rope or strap.

 

[mikester]

https://www.princessauto.com/en/4-in-x-6-ft-atv-winch-tree-strap/product/PA0008021419

these work well for me, get them on sale for under $10

 

[ve9aa]

Make sure the tree can't fall on you (obvious to most, duh) and stay away from using Kinetic Ropes.

I usually toss an old jacket or something midway along the strap or rope as an added insurance.

I had a cable break one time on a come-a-long and thank goodness I used an old jean jacket as a dampener. That cable snapped and scared the beejeebus outta me, but everyone in the nearby vicinity was ok. (this was on a winching job with a 4x4 truck stuck in a creek, not a tree in a yard)

 

[Norman]

I've used 25 foot tow strap before. But...never buy one with the metal hooks on the ends, those can be deadly. Only sewn loops. Otherwise you have lots of great advise up there.

 

[Captain13]

I’m with TughillTom on this one. I’d pick up a couple of snatch blocks and some good line. It will be a lot easier on your tractor and will give you a better mechanical advantage to take down a big tree. I use snatch blocks and/or a 5 to 1 pulley system for tensioning big trees and anything else I might want to move. Check some videos on YouTube and you’ll see what I mean. I have a 20 foot tow strap in my truck if I need to pull something on flat dry ground but if somebody is stuck, I go with snatch blocks.

 

[bbxlr8]

Major deja vu - I went down this rabbit hole with an ugly situation with an even smaller cherry.

I have shagbarks also and have brought down a number of them - heavy and hard as hell but BTUs to melt your stove if you're not careful.

Here is my link to the thread on pulling and lines - GREAT INFO from the group BTW
Tree work - Rope or Chain Recommendations

 

[HarperHollow'sGhost]

I've done what you propose more than a few times....with no issues. HOWEVER, it would be helpful to have a picture of the tree and the terrain around it. Otherwise, we are all 'imagining' the situation....save for what you have told us.

Much depends on how much 'hinge' is left at the break in the trunk, at what direction you might be able to pull (90° or better to the lay of the top as it sits now), whether or the not the holding wood is rotten/dead/compromised or not.

It might not take more than a simple pull to dislodge it.....or it might take a dynamic pull to 'pop' the fallen top off. Hard to say without pics, so I will refrain from offering advice.

Ok so one week later, I finally got these pics. Looking closer, I can see the hinge is quite looser now, with two main trunk components trying to fall on what looks like either side of the main trunk.

 

[Flintknapper]

Ok so one week later, I finally got these pics. Looking closer, I can see the hinge is quite looser now, with two main trunk components trying to fall on what looks like either side of the main trunk. View attachment 105964 View attachment 105965 View attachment 105966 View attachment 105967 View attachment 105968 View attachment 105969 View attachment 105970 View attachment 105971 View attachment 105972

Cakewalk.

Try pulling at 90° to the lay of the tree first. Should pop right off. If not more back towards the trunk.

I'd spend a little time clearing off the area right around the top first, and maybe cut any limbs jammed in the ground. Otherwise....just go for it, that's not a bad one.

 

[Captain13]

If you have a snatch block, attach it to the broke tree. Then anchor one end of a line to another tree or stump go through the snatch block then to your pull vehicle. That will give you a mechanical advantage of 2 to 1. Follow Flintknappers advice and pull the broke tree at a 90 degree angle. Good snatch blocks are available at Tractor Supply.
Here’s a link on how to do it.

 

[trueg50]

Like flintknapper said, should be easy. I'm not a fan of straps for pulling stuff (more for lifting), I'd go with just a 20ftish chain (I keep one in a 50 cal ammo box on my tractor).

 

[GreensvilleJay]

what's wrong with just, getting rid of the brush around the trunk,tie 'rope' to tree top and truck with slight tension and then cutting the tree off at ground level ?