Toplink threads?

[Rich in NJ]

In going over my recently-purchased L3130, I found that one of the zerks had broken off of one end of the toplink. While attempting to disassemble the toplink (and really working up a sweat), I subsequently found out that it had an internal roll pin that was purposely placed there to prevent the end from coming out! So, once I cleaned everything up and replaced the broken-off zerk, I tried to rethread the end back into the main housing. No good. The threads were definitely too damaged to allow this. So, does anyone know the correct threads? By the way, with my usual luck, the one end that I need to repair is the one with left-hand threads! I'm guessing that they're metric as well. I checked the official Kubota parts list on-line, but it didn't give any details. Help!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I take it you threaded it out with the roll pin still in it?

Taping the body back out to fix the threads usually makes the threads too loose and sloppy and will make the top link unsafe and unusable, the chance's of you lifting and pulling the threads is rather great!

If you did, your best bet is to toss that one in the scrap bin and get a new one.
Yea, it's not a cheap part, $305.20.
https://www.colemanequip.com/search/TD050-71100/
There are several aftermarket ones that are cheaper price, but they are cheap, and if you use your top link a lot, your not going to like it, they thread in and out hard and wear really quick.

 

[Rich in NJ]

Wolfman,
Thanks for getting back to me about this. Yep, I should have made that more clear. I did indeed remove that one end with the pin still in place within the body of the main housing. I'd still like to know the thread size, as to me, it's still worth a try. If I'm able to chase the threads, I'll see what happens, and if it's as you say, then I suppose I'll have to spring for a new part.

 

[Bulldog]

I agree with Wolfman. I wouldn't trust that one at all.

 

[armylifer]

Is that top link a category 1? From what I see on tractor data it is a cat 1. If so, will this one from TSC for $21.99 work for you?

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-adjustable-top-link-cat-1

 

[JerryMT]

Wolfman,
Thanks for getting back to me about this. Yep, I should have made that more clear. I did indeed remove that one end with the pin still in place within the body of the main housing. I'd still like to know the thread size, as to me, it's still worth a try. If I'm able to chase the threads, I'll see what happens, and if it's as you say, then I suppose I'll have to spring for a new part.

I think they are an acme thread and I suppose someone makes acme taps but I have never seen one. If you find them, they are likely expensive.
It might be better to find a machine shop that can help you or just spring for simple replacement from TSC, Cenex, etc. Look around on the web and you can find a heavy duty top link a lot less than $300!

 

[adventure bob]

$300 for a top link? Wow. You can find cat I top links all over the internet for under $100. You get a really nice ratchet driven one for less than $150. If I could ever break mine I'd get a ratcheting one.

 

[jpf]

couldn't the existing hole be plugged and a new hole drilled and tapped for a zerk?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

couldn't the existing hole be plugged and a new hole drilled and tapped for a zerk?

The zerk hole is not the issue, it's the threaded rod threads in the body that have been damaged.

 

[Russell King]

You can figure out the threads from the un damaged threads on the externally threaded rod. Then a machine shop may be able to repair the internal threads by welding it up or something.

Same thing happened to me but lucky for me the roll pin was rusted down to mostly nothing. That is why I couldn’t see it to remove it before taking the top link apart. On mine (L185) the threads were normal 1.5 US threads of right hand and left hand variety


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