Top-n-Tilt Best Practices

ayak

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Looking for some sage advice from folks that have rear remotes for their top and side link, doing brush hog or rear/box blade work.
My rear remote setup has three valves, two of which can float. The float position on both of those valves has the operator pushing and locking the lever all the way forward to be in float.
My question in particular—while I can certainly swap the hose positions any way I’d like to have the cylinder heading towards ‘out/extending’ or heading towards ‘in/retracting’ (while going ‘to’ float), what makes the most sense for brush hog and blade use if you wish to be floating the top and side link? (…or does it even really matter?) And a semi-related side question, what’s the best way to leave adjusted the manually adjustable side link I’ve now moved over to the other side? (mid-way seems logical)

PS. and a shout out to Brian at Fitrite for quality cylinders and really helpful support after the fact. I boogered up a hose due to my poor routing and he’s got two on the way to me already.
 
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B737

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I am not sure I understand your question...
Manual link set to about 50% of stroke. As for float, I don't use float with brush hog or BB, I have found it's better just to set them.

There was a whole write up done for top & tilt by NHSleddog...
It is unfortunate he was banned by the moderators here, as he was one of the few with a lot of valuable experience to share who didn't just pontificate, but actually 'did'.

 
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MtnViewRanch

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Looking for some sage advice from folks that have rear remotes for their top and side link, doing brush hog or rear/box blade work.
My rear remote setup has three valves, two of which can float. The float position on both of those valves has the operator pushing and locking the lever all the way forward to be in float.
My question in particular—while I can certainly swap the hose positions any way I’d like to have the cylinder heading towards ‘out/extending’ or heading towards ‘in/retracting’ (while going ‘to’ float), what makes the most sense for brush hog and blade use if you wish to be floating the top and side link? (…or does it even really matter?) And a semi-related side question, what’s the best way to leave adjusted the manually adjustable side link I’ve now moved over to the other side? (mid-way seems logical)

PS. and a shout out to Brian at Fitrite for quality cylinders and really helpful support after the fact. I boogered up a hose due to my poor routing and he’s got two on the way to me already.
Regarding the side link, with no implement on the tractor, put the tractor onto flat ground and set the hydraulic side link to mid-stroke. Then adjust the left side link so that the lower arms are the same distance from the ground.
You are then set up to have an equal amount of tilt to the left & right sides.

As far as how to set your hoses, it is always best-safer to have the float position on the downward side of implement movement. You do not want to be raising the implement to put it into float mode.
 
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Henro

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There was a whole write up done for top & tilt by NHSleddog...
It is unfortunate he was banned by the moderators here…
Are you sure he was banned? When Flip was banned he showed up as banned but NHSleddog doesn’t…could something else be going on? Curious…

I don’t use my brush hog much, but when I do I use float on the top cylinder. What can it hurt? That’s my thinking…
 

B737

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Are you sure he was banned? When Flip was banned he showed up as banned but NHSleddog doesn’t…could something else be going on? Curious…
yeah it was months ago, it's like a shadowban, if you try to access his profile it's "gone". He is unable to log in because of the ban. The Mods made sure to not update his banner tag to "banned" as to keep it under the radar (IMO).
 

Henro

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yeah it was months ago, it's like a shadowban, if you try to access his profile it's "gone". He is unable to log in because of the ban. The Mods made sure to not update his banner tag to "banned" as to keep it under the radar (IMO).
That is a shame…should be one way or the other.

Wonder if he was just given a time out that ended putting him in limbo for some reason? I mean like an unintended forever time out?
 

B737

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NHSleddog is listed as Last seen; last week. May 25, 2022
he was banned because someones sensitive political feelings got hurt in off topic section. The only difference in this case is they did not tag his bi-line with "banned". He can't log in anymore and his profile isnt visible.
 

PortTackFarm

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Looking for some sage advice from folks that have rear remotes for their top and side link, doing brush hog or rear/box blade work.
My rear remote setup has three valves, two of which can float. The float position on both of those valves has the operator pushing and locking the lever all the way forward to be in float.
My question in particular—while I can certainly swap the hose positions any way I’d like to have the cylinder heading towards ‘out/extending’ or heading towards ‘in/retracting’ (while going ‘to’ float), what makes the most sense for brush hog and blade use if you wish to be floating the top and side link? (…or does it even really matter?) And a semi-related side question, what’s the best way to leave adjusted the manually adjustable side link I’ve now moved over to the other side? (mid-way seems logical)

PS. and a shout out to Brian at Fitrite for quality cylinders and really helpful support after the fact. I boogered up a hose due to my poor routing and he’s got two on the way to me already.
I assume you just received everything from FitRite? If so, when did you place your order. I ordered back in October and still haven't heard anything on when my kit will ship. I know he's busy and supplies are in short supply so I don't want to bother him. I'll email him in a couple weeks if I don't get the email that everything has shipped.
 

mikester

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The only time I've ever floated the top link was by accident. I get frustrated trying to move the top link to position trying to feather out the spoil and I accidentally lock it in detent and leave a hump.
 

ayak

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L3301 HST
Feb 16, 2018
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I assume you just received everything from FitRite? If so, when did you place your order. I ordered back in October and still haven't heard anything on when my kit will ship. I know he's busy and supplies are in short supply so I don't want to bother him. I'll email him in a couple weeks if I don't get the email that everything has shipped.
I’ve had my gear from Brian since last year and am just now only getting going on it. It was well worth the wait for my circumstances—and he is very responsive to an email—not to mention one of the sage-advisors at the beginning of this thread.
 

Vince1230

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Sad to see someone banned for their thoughts. I guess free speech and different opinions are no longer welcome. Our poor country
 
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NCL4701

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Looking for some sage advice from folks that have rear remotes for their top and side link, doing brush hog or rear/box blade work.
My rear remote setup has three valves, two of which can float. The float position on both of those valves has the operator pushing and locking the lever all the way forward to be in float.
My question in particular—while I can certainly swap the hose positions any way I’d like to have the cylinder heading towards ‘out/extending’ or heading towards ‘in/retracting’ (while going ‘to’ float), what makes the most sense for brush hog and blade use if you wish to be floating the top and side link? (…or does it even really matter?) And a semi-related side question, what’s the best way to leave adjusted the manually adjustable side link I’ve now moved over to the other side? (mid-way seems logical)

PS. and a shout out to Brian at Fitrite for quality cylinders and really helpful support after the fact. I boogered up a hose due to my poor routing and he’s got two on the way to me already.
Whether it’s a temporary ban, permanent ban, or self imposed ban I would like to see NHSleddog return as he was a knowledgeable contributor. Admittedly, I don’t see every post and this isn’t my site so maybe there’s a valid reason for whatever is going on.

Getting back to the original question, possibly there’s some “standard” configuration, I don’t know. I know my dealer did mine as a turn key job and had it set up for forward = in/up, backward = out/down. While that may seem intuitive (push the valve handle the direction you want the cylinder to move) it was counterintuitive to me due to decades of using the 3 point control where moving the valve handle through the arc forward/down = down, backward/up = up. So I swapped the hoses to make backward movement of the valve handles = up/in. That also means forward is out/down and pushing forward past the detent is float so that made more sense to me as well. That’s based on absolutely nothing other than my preference.

So far as the mechanically adjustable side link, which of course is now on the left side, my default preference is to have it set such that full up on the hydraulic link = level. The hydraulic link moves at least a bit every time I park the tractor overnight or longer even if I don’t drop it on shutdown. Also, when I shut it down for the day I relieve the pressure on all hydraulic circuits including top and side link, which proactively causes it to move. When I start up, pulling the sidelink all the way up reliably brings it to level every time. For mowing, quick touch ups with the box blade, chipper, generator (which are the primary uses of the 3 point for me) I find the ability to reliably return to level at any point in time or place in 2 seconds or less is preferable. Again, strictly personal preference.

I have one float, two center return. I often float the toplink brush hogging because the “economy” brush hog we have provides very little top link movement and I brush hog some very rough and uneven terrain. At times, I’ll switch the float valve temporarily to the sidelink: specifically when pulling gravel from the edge of the road back to the center with the backblade as that allows the blade to follow any changes in contour.

If I’m working on a road or trail where there’s an advantage to being able to tilt in either direction but dead level isn’t important, which is often the case crowning and ditching, I’ll set the mechanically adjustable link for level around the middle of the hydraulic link travel.

For ditching with the backblade or boxblade, at times I’ll adjust the mechanically adjustable link and hydraulic link to their maximum travel in opposite directions to maximize tilt.


For 40+ years prior to last summer when top/tilt was added to the L, I adjusted mechanical side links as the only method of adjustment, and although the hydraulic sidelink is awesome, I’m not above adjusting the mechanical link now and then to fit the job at hand. Honestly, if I wasn’t planning to adjust the mechanically adjustable side link occasionally, I would have left the fixed side link on the left side.
 
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gmgmgm

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Many people won't ever need or want float on top or tilt, so that may simplify your choice! And if you have a check valve on the cylinders then float won't work anyway.

I have float on my tilt cylinder, which is handy for grading or mowing rough tracks on hillsides. Float on a top link is handy also for hilly terrain, but my top link has a check valve so I can't use float. I haven't missed it enough to remove the check valve yet.
 
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