I bought my first tractor 8 months ago, used M5040 cab w/FEL. am running a tiller and disk a lot. I have a screw type top link with a single "lock" nut on one end. I have to get out of the tractor every 30 minutes of use to tighten the link back to where i originally wanted it set. the lock screw does not seem to do anything. Should i have 2 nuts, one on each end, to make it stay where i want it? Like with disk, i want the front down sometimes to dig more but after a few passes, the link has back out, sometimes an inch or more, which drops the rear of disk. I have about 150hrs of seat time so a rookie here but am frustrated with this process. have taken link off and am heading to buy a replacement unless someone can educate me as to what i am doing incorrectly? Any help is very much appreciated,
top link question
- Thread starter MSbanker
- Start date
Welcome to OTT
IMHO adding a 2nd lock nut won't help. Your problem is the fact that you're not tightening the lock nut tight enough. All center links that I own that have a locking device such as a nut get tightened with an adjustable wrench or pipe wrench and they stay where they're put even operating tiller in hard soil.
IMHO adding a 2nd lock nut won't help. Your problem is the fact that you're not tightening the lock nut tight enough. All center links that I own that have a locking device such as a nut get tightened with an adjustable wrench or pipe wrench and they stay where they're put even operating tiller in hard soil.
Mine does the same thing. I don't know what is with Kubota products as good as they are that this company cannot make small items that stay tight. I have had several tractors over the last 50 years and this is the first one that if something can loosen up it will. Now back to the link, I tightened the nut down with a 10 adjustable wrench ,go 3 miles down the road and it has backed out an inch. What I am going to say may sound dumb but turn the link around, afer I did this it still loosens somewhat but not as bad. I have several aftermarket links here and I tried one of them. They have no lock nut on them and can use them weeks at a time without them moving.
Technical Ted
Member
Equipment
L3560/cab LA805 loader LandPride RCF2060 rotary cutter, HLA hyd angle snow blade
You may very well already be doing this, so if so, please disregard. Whenever I use a locking nut, I always unscrew one nut while tightening the other. For me, this always seems to tighten the "lock" between the two nuts more securely. It seems like just tightening one nut should be enough, but I've had better luck unscrewing one and tightening the other at the same time to really lock them together. So, maybe a pipe wrench on the link and a wrench on the nut applying opposite forces while tightening the two together against each other?
Good luck.
YMMV,
Ted
Good luck.
YMMV,
Ted
I understand what you are saying about tightening it down, I'm a big guy and have put a lot of tension with a pipe wrench only to have it back down at about the same rate as if i had just tighten by hand. Now in all fairness, i have been working on some firm soil but even after i went over an area that has been worked, it still backs out. I noticed the comment about aftermarket links working well, i am going to have to try that. Takes the benefit of having cabin air when you are out of it tightening link every 20 mins lol
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
There are probably roll pins in the ends of the threaded rods to keep it from completely coming unscrewed. This makes it difficult to add a second nut, also one of the screws is left hand so make sure you remove the right hand threaded one if you add a second nut.
There are usually some holes in the center section to allow the roll pins to be removed but there is usually enough grease to make it difficult to find the pins.
You might try to remove some of the lubricant around where the lock nut is and see if it will stay locked.
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There are usually some holes in the center section to allow the roll pins to be removed but there is usually enough grease to make it difficult to find the pins.
You might try to remove some of the lubricant around where the lock nut is and see if it will stay locked.
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I bought one at a sale once and I didn't have to worry about that one loosening up, be surprized what a little rust will do
Agree with a lot of the ideas already posted. Using a long pipe wrench seems the best idea.
Also, make sure the end balls are parallel after tightening. When tightening, sometimes the balls end up at an angle to each other and when the implement swings, the frame of the ball can get bumped and eventually loosen the nut.
If you can get one of the ends off (OEM requires removing a roll pin) you can get a large lock washer at a "real" hardware store. That should help.
Also, make sure the end balls are parallel after tightening. When tightening, sometimes the balls end up at an angle to each other and when the implement swings, the frame of the ball can get bumped and eventually loosen the nut.
If you can get one of the ends off (OEM requires removing a roll pin) you can get a large lock washer at a "real" hardware store. That should help.
bambam31
Member
Equipment
L3800HST 4x4,R1,FEL, 6'disc, 5'bush hog,piranhaTB,6'grader,6'rake, 48"forks
I had the exact issue. I spray WD-40 silicone on all the threads on my 3PH in addition to greasing the top link. After a while I got some dirt accumulation on the top link threads and it stopped loosening.
Some ideas that don't need tools to keep it from turning.
The railroads in Europe used turnbuckles to tighten the chain couplings between cars. They prevented turning by having a weight on the end of the turning handle. See attachments. You could add a weight to the end of your cross handle.
If you have a loop handle like some top links do, hang a weight on it or hook a bungee cord to it.
Weld a solid rod, maybe 1" x 12", parallel along one side of your top link. the weight will keep it from turning, and may make an easy handle for you to turn it with.
Bruce
The railroads in Europe used turnbuckles to tighten the chain couplings between cars. They prevented turning by having a weight on the end of the turning handle. See attachments. You could add a weight to the end of your cross handle.
If you have a loop handle like some top links do, hang a weight on it or hook a bungee cord to it.
Weld a solid rod, maybe 1" x 12", parallel along one side of your top link. the weight will keep it from turning, and may make an easy handle for you to turn it with.
Bruce
Attachments
I use stainless steel lock wire on both the top link and the check chains on the lower links.
Many of you will know that lock wiring is commonly used on aeroplanes and race cars to prevent fasteners coming loose. Exactly the same techniques work for tractors.
I only use one tool on the 3PT so I very rarely adjust the length of the top link.
Many of you will know that lock wiring is commonly used on aeroplanes and race cars to prevent fasteners coming loose. Exactly the same techniques work for tractors.
I only use one tool on the 3PT so I very rarely adjust the length of the top link.
I was frustrated by that as well. It was the first top link I've ever used with a lock nut. The others you just set them and they stayed that way. I cut a short piece of pipe to use on the too short turning handles and used a pipe wrench on the nut and that worked fine. I wound up buying a short 36 mm wrench to use on the nut so I wouldn't gouge it up anymore with the pipe wrench. I wound up having to get a longer top link because I installed Pat's quick hitches so I'm not using the stock one right now.