There is debate on whether the check valves are necessary. There is a guy on another popular tractor forum who builds these kits that Fit Rite (you could find his site by googling that)..... His name is Brian and has been building them for years and years. Many people say he’s the best in the business. I would agree.
If the cylinders drift it’s because of faulty valves, not a faulty cylinder. With check valves i don’t think you can “float”. I ordered my L6060 with all 3 float rear remotes because a float valve can act just like a double action valve but with the addition of float. Just so you know it is widely known that the rear remotes on L series tractors are notorious for bleeding or “drifting” and there are plenty of discussions about that. I read of people and dealers going through 4-5 valves before getting some that don’t drift... Hopefully Kubota is working this common, known issue because they are awfully stinking expensive to have so many issues.
You want float valves if possible for your T&T because if you do grading, or landscape work it will give you the ultimate flexibility for your box scrapers and things like that. You can also float the top link on your mower as someone mentioned safely without disconnecting your top link. Also, if you are like me and mow about 5 acres of hilly uneven terrain you can float the side and top link and get a better cut from a 3pt lift bush hog vs a tow behind.
The guy i mentioned before had a 20 week lead time so i decided to build my own T&T. On my L6060 I’m using 2.5” cylinders for both the toplink and side link. Ordered both cylinders from Surplus Center. He gave me some advice and lots and lots of advice on the forums. I’m cutting both ends off and welding Cat 1 top link ends on the top link cylinder and a hook end on the other end of it.
For the side link i decided it easier to actually buy the lower link stabilizer bar replacement OEM piece from Messicks for $90 and cut both ends off of it to save time on fabrication and it’s guaranteed to fit because it’s the actual ends that were on the tractor. I didn’t want to cut up my actual adjustable side link just in case i ever need to remove the T&T kit for any reason. That adjustable side link pieces were very expensive so I bought the solid bar from the left side since the ends are the same. Had I waited until my new tractor was delivered i probably wouldn’t have bought this piece and just built it because it is just a Cat 1 toplink end at the top and the bottom piece wouldn’t have been bad to fab up.
One other thing he suggested is to replace the end links with Euro style hook quick hitch. You can find those at Agri supply USA. You cut off your 3 pt ends and the cylinder end (which you would do anyhow to build the top and tilt kit) and weld on Euro style (AMA) hook ends.. You then put balls on each of your implements and it works like a Pats quick hitch only with forged (not cast) hook ends, that are extremely durable and you don’t lose the “ball” movement of your 3 pt ends like with the Pats system that bolts solid to your lift arms. They work on any implement unlike a normal quick 3 pt quick hitch but connect like the Pats system.
I’m building mine with the weld on hook end for the top link also so all 3 connection points for my 3 pt will be hook end quick hitches. I’m really excited to get this done.
