Toothbar questions

[will721]

These are the style of nut I was referring to. They eliminate a need for a lock washer or flat washer on the nut side. The ribs bite into the metal to lock them in place. As a bonus, they are easier to remove because they hold themselves until the bolt is loosened. The bolt itself has to be backed out once tight, you will not be able to turn the nut so never use them on a stud/nut combination.

I use them on everything I have to supply or change out the hardware for. They will be on my tooth bar when I reinstall it in the spring. If they are good enough for 150ton rated cranes, they are good enough for a little tractor.

 

[animals45]

Hex Bolt. Vs Carriage Bolt - Which one is Better?

Looking for the right type of bolt for your project? Not sure if a hex bolt or carriage bolt is the right choice? Take a look at our comparison article.

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[dirtydeed]

Cut a length of 2x4 cut to fit inside the bucket snugly (just above where you drilled the holes). Then crank the tooth bar down. That will make the mounting flanges bend towards the bucket sides and not bend the bucket itself.

 

[Smokeydog]

After snapping the pictures, I did crank down the bolts tight. There is still a gap, but my bucket has some welded on pieces on the inside that the bar mounting tabs are tight against so it looks worse than it is.

I didn’t grab my impact, but maybe I’ll do that to see if I can get it tighter to bend a bit more. I don’t have a M18 high torque, but I have a mid torque, and a pneumatic impact so that should do it.

I do like the idea of adding some never seize and possibly a lock washer if I just can’t get the lock washer on.

You’re good to go. Run a while, check fit and tightness. Run low a great brush puller. Let us know what you think. Enjoy!

 

[soloz2]

View attachment 109507

These are the style of nut I was referring to. They eliminate a need for a lock washer or flat washer on the nut side. The ribs bite into the metal to lock them in place. As a bonus, they are easier to remove because they hold themselves until the bolt is loosened. The bolt itself has to be backed out once tight, you will not be able to turn the nut so never use them on a stud/nut combination.

I use them on everything I have to supply or change out the hardware for. They will be on my tooth bar when I reinstall it in the spring. If they are good enough for 150ton rated cranes, they are good enough for a little tractor.

I will look for these next time I'm at TSC.

 

[Mlarv]

I use my Dewalt impact wrench on the bolt side, and hold the head side with a regular wrench. Pull the trigger and it gets tight.

I take mine on and off depending on what material I am moving. Also if I need a smoother back blade job.

I have never had the nuts back off or get lose.

 

[animals45]

Years back my I had a bud that ran a excavator business &. he made this plate where he removed his 2 outside teeth from the shank & & slid this plate that had 2 old teeth welded in the 2 outside locations with some pipe also welded to it that wen t around the left over teeth so in just a few minutes he could go from teeth to smooth . Alot of folks will say thais or that about that taking too much time . Well as a guy that made his lively hood on a tractor it was a time saver for him .
animal