I am re-grinding the welded-on teeth on a post-hole auger. Should the teeth have a high positive rake (very sharp like 45°), or very low (more blunt like 10°).
tooth grind angle on post hole auger
- Thread starter claya1
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85Hokie
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Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
The first will bite much better......... which may NOT be what you really want. If it bites hard and gets stuck.... you will be stuck! A less aggressive angle will scrape away soil, breaking it up to spiral up better.
I would stick with the OEM angle unless soils are really different.
What is a typical OEM angle, 45°? I think it is the back rake angle that really matters. Because the teeth are so worn down on this one, the bottom of the teeth just surf on the dirt.
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Keep in mind that if you are below the equator that the angle has to be the reverse. 
Good luck, hope it all works out well for you.
Good luck, hope it all works out well for you.
Captain13
Active member
Equipment
M7040 4WD ROPS, ZD28, Woods (84” box blade, 72” harrow, 48” pallet forks)
Built the auger teeth back up with welds. (Picture is pre-repair). But the tip is so severly worn, it will not bite into the dirt. Screw-on tip will not unscrew.
Suggestions on how to remove the tip? I have a gas torch & an induction welder. Gas torch will just transfer heat to the tip eventually. TSC has a Countrywide replacement tip, but are the threads on these a standard form? I do not want to waste half a day removing the tip, just to find the threads are not compatible.
Induction heated as close to the threads as possible to 1000°F. That tip is not budging at all. Suggestions?
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I assume when you said induction welder you meant induction heater?
If you can weld, you might consider just cutting the old tip off and welding the new one on in its place...
Or maybe you could use a cutting disk in a four inch grinder and slit the old tip up one side to loosen it a bit that way?
Captain13
Active member
Equipment
M7040 4WD ROPS, ZD28, Woods (84” box blade, 72” harrow, 48” pallet forks)
Henro’s suggestion is a good one. Also, you could try the method used for removing pressed on axle bearings. Use a grinder as suggested by Henro or a die grinder with a cutting disc. Cut a groove in the tip, but not deep enough to damage the internal threads. Then take a chisel, put the sharp end in the grove and hit it with a hammer. That will usually pop the steel open and release it. I do that with bearings and it works great with no damage to the axle when I use that method.
Of course, if the new tip screws into instead onto existing threads this won’t work.
Of course, if the new tip screws into instead onto existing threads this won’t work.
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Was able to grind & relief cut the tip enough to loosen it, and unscrew. Fortunately the TSC Countrywide tip threads matched the old tip.
