There is a procedure you can try while the cylinders are on the tractor to evaluate how much repair might be needed.
This, if it my attempt to add an image works:
Tool for Hydraulic Cylinder repair Question
- Thread starter Cumbres
- Start date
This, if it my attempt to add an image works:
Remember kids, Henro's the guy that hasn't checked his fuel filter in 17 years 
and act accordingly. Personally, I'll take my chances on boogering up the new seal while I'm in there.
I'm picking on Henro and GeoHorn. You should Google 'maintenance-induced failure' to reinforce your position.
and act accordingly. Personally, I'll take my chances on boogering up the new seal while I'm in there.I'm picking on Henro and GeoHorn. You should Google 'maintenance-induced failure' to reinforce your position.
Here you go!: https://terrywireman.typepad.com/terrys-blog/2011/07/the-myth-of-maintenance-induced-failures.htmlRemember kids, Henro's the guy that hasn't checked his fuel filter in 17 years
I'm picking on Henro and GeoHorn. You should Google 'maintenance-induced failure' to reinforce your position.
yeah my thought was the same for years, if the piston seal ain't broke don't replace it
you have to buy it as part of the kit
you are taking the cylinder apart to replace the gland seal and dust seal which means the piston has to come off.
the piston has to come off, you have the seal, it's real easy to replace. There is no sense NOT to unless you're plum lazy. if you don't and later on something is up with the loader and it's not lifting properly, you'll be questioning yourself, why was I stupid that day?
you have to buy it as part of the kit
you are taking the cylinder apart to replace the gland seal and dust seal which means the piston has to come off.
the piston has to come off, you have the seal, it's real easy to replace. There is no sense NOT to unless you're plum lazy. if you don't and later on something is up with the loader and it's not lifting properly, you'll be questioning yourself, why was I stupid that day?
Great advice. Booger up your repairs all you like.Remember kids, Henro's the guy that hasn't checked his fuel filter in 17 years
I'm picking on Henro and GeoHorn. You should Google 'maintenance-induced failure' to reinforce your position.
But do not wright off a good procedure because you think changing a fuel filter without reason is a good reason to ignore a sound procedure.
Add to that, I do not recall many checking their fuel filters before or after changing them.
Just call me F, D & H.
I’ve done it using tweezers, hemostats, and needle nose pliers even. Fold it into a Heart-shape, grab the ”crevice” with tweezers in a gentle “pinch”, insert it into position and release it, then smooth and open the heart into place.
---That video showed that it was difficult to get the center seal on the piston into place. They ended up buying a $140 tool to get that on.
So my question, is there a cheaper tool out there or a "trick" to make getting that seal in place easier? I didn't damage mine but I was afraid I was going too.
Thanks for any help you can give me.
For future reference, for about $10 I made a spreader cone out of (2) 3/4 x 1-1/4 pvc busings glued inside a plastic coupler to create a thick, solid plastic cylinder. I glued (2) 3/4 x 1/2 bushings in the larger bushings to center a piece of 1/2 pipe in the very middle to align the tool in the piston center hole. (you have to turn down the bottom of the 1/2 pipe a bit to fit it into the piston center hole.) I milled the cylinder into a cone with a bottom diameter matching the piston using my drill press and a wood chisel for a lathe. Used a plastic pill bottle for a pusher. Slit the bottle lengthwise about 1/2 it's length to create about 8 flexible "fingers". Put an o-ring at the bottom of the fingers to keep them tight against the spreader. Heat seal to about 140 in a pan of water. Lube the spreader and push the seal straight down with the pill bottle. It goes on EFFORTLESSLY! Re-compress the seal with a screw track hose clamp with a plastic protector over the seal and stick it in the freezer for a half hour so it takes a set. Cost about $10 and 2 hours of my time.
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Old Machinist
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota LX3310 cab, JD 4310, NH 575E cab backhoe, JD F725, Swisher 60", etc.
I see this is an old thread but thought I would add some input anyways.
Those u-cup seal installers may work for some but every time I try to use one the seal pops back off before it's lined up with the groove and I end up installing it with my finger anyways. I saw a homemade one made from a hinge that looked like it worked better than the round rod ones sold. The center pivot was round but the outer parts were cut down parts of the hinge leaves that had the edges rounded.
For piston seals I soak them in hot hydraulic fluid and work them on the piston with a screwdriver. I put the seal in a metal dog food bowl with oil in it and position a space heater over the bowl to get it hot. I use a stubby straight slot screwdriver I have rounded and polished the edges on. After you get them in place you have to compress them. There ain't no calibration to it. As long as it gets flush enough to go back in the cylinder it will protrude out enough to seal. For small pistons you can use a piece of plastic cut from a jug under a hose clamp. For larger pistons you can use a piston ring compressor designed for engine rebuilding.
For gland nuts that won't come lose I use hydraulic power one way or another. I usually strap the wrench into position and either use the loader on another tractor or I have used the power of the loader cylinder I was working on assuming it still worked.
Most of the cylinders I've done were much larger than the ones on our little Kubotas but the concept is the same.
If you have 22 minutes to waste here is a video of the last cylinder I rebuilt on my backhoe loader.
Those u-cup seal installers may work for some but every time I try to use one the seal pops back off before it's lined up with the groove and I end up installing it with my finger anyways. I saw a homemade one made from a hinge that looked like it worked better than the round rod ones sold. The center pivot was round but the outer parts were cut down parts of the hinge leaves that had the edges rounded.
For piston seals I soak them in hot hydraulic fluid and work them on the piston with a screwdriver. I put the seal in a metal dog food bowl with oil in it and position a space heater over the bowl to get it hot. I use a stubby straight slot screwdriver I have rounded and polished the edges on. After you get them in place you have to compress them. There ain't no calibration to it. As long as it gets flush enough to go back in the cylinder it will protrude out enough to seal. For small pistons you can use a piece of plastic cut from a jug under a hose clamp. For larger pistons you can use a piston ring compressor designed for engine rebuilding.
For gland nuts that won't come lose I use hydraulic power one way or another. I usually strap the wrench into position and either use the loader on another tractor or I have used the power of the loader cylinder I was working on assuming it still worked.
Most of the cylinders I've done were much larger than the ones on our little Kubotas but the concept is the same.
If you have 22 minutes to waste here is a video of the last cylinder I rebuilt on my backhoe loader.