To float or not.

[RandyBuxton]

So when I ordered up my L2501 with a TNT and box scraper I expected a Spring Center valve (L7231A) for the top link control and the Float Detent (L7232A) for the tilt. Without notice, I received the Float Detent valves for both rear remotes. Is this a problem for operating the box scraper (or anything else, for that matter) or is it a benefit?

-Randy

 

[TheOldHokie]

So when I ordered up my L2501 with a TNT and box scraper I expected a Spring Center valve (L7231A) for the top link control and the Float Detent (L7232A) for the tilt. Without notice, I received the Float Detent valves for both rear remotes. Is this a problem for operating the box scraper (or anything else, for that matter) or is it a benefit?

-Randy

Float is just a fourth position. You only use it if you want to. Otherwise the valve operates just like a spring center without float.

Dan

 

[Tropical Jack]

I have float on both valves. I find it to be a benefit (providing that your cylinders do not have check valves), especially with my box blade and scraper blade.

Jack

 

[Chad D.]

I’m in the opposite boat. I have a float detent on the valve for my top link, but never use it. Never, ever. I believe I may be in the minority on that , but it’s just not my cup of tea.
I’ve since added a check valve because my valve wouldn’t fully hold my cylinder in place over time. Now my float doesn’t do anything…

 

[RandyBuxton]

I have used the top and tilt / box blade a few times on my dirt road. One thing that I find is that the top control will only level the box blade and not angle backward just a couple inches more in order to use the back blade to drag and smooth out the dirt. Short of having a longer hydraulic arm is there some way to set this up so it can do what I want it to do? I have the telescopic stabilizers also, if that makes a difference.

-Randy

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I have used the top and tilt / box blade a few times on my dirt road. One thing that I find is that the top control will only level the box blade and not angle backward just a couple inches more in order to use the back blade to drag and smooth out the dirt. Short of having a longer hydraulic arm is there some way to set this up so it can do what I want it to do? I have the telescopic stabilizers also, if that makes a difference.

-Randy

Try the top pin location on the tractor if you have not already.
It seems like you need a longer top link. Do you have Pat's QH on your draft arms?
Very common to have this issue with the Pat's.

 

[RandyBuxton]

Try the top pin location on the tractor if you have not already.
It seems like you need a longer top link. Do you have Pat's QH on your draft arms?
Very common to have this issue with the Pat's.

The instructions state the top link should be on the bottom hole for the box grader but the top link came to me attached to the top hole. I do not have Pat's QH.

-Randy

 

[RandyBuxton]

Looking like you need a different working length.
I typically provide a 20"-29" working length for the L2501 tractors.
I have not had any complaints yet.

I'll check the working length. The TNT manual states top hole of the 3PH for the link.... Tractor manual states bottom for the top link when using the box grader. Without me changing the current set-up do you think that would make any difference?

Thanks.

-Randy

 

[MtnViewRanch]

You will gain some length simply because the top link is at less of an angle when in the top pin location.
It works better for grading also IMO. But no it is not going to get you enough length to not get a different working length IMO.

Good luck.

 

[RandyBuxton]

You will gain some length simply because the top link is at less of an angle when in the top pin location.
It works better for grading also IMO. But no it is not going to get you enough length to not get a different working length IMO.

Good luck.

Working length of my top hydraulic link is 18" - 26". Another couple inches more would be nice but probably can't justify the $$$ for another new link. Will see after the grading season is over.

Thanks for the input.

-Randy

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I have found that generally if you do what this link asks and figure that for your mid-stoke of the rod, you end up with a top link that provides enough tilt in both directions.

 

[Tropical Jack]

I had the right length hydraulic top link until I got a “Pat’s Quick Hitch”. Then I was about 3” short. So I made an “extender”.

Jack

 

[RandyBuxton]

I had the right length hydraulic top link until I got a “Pat’s Quick Hitch”. Then I was about 3” short. So I made an “extender”.

Jack View attachment 98459

I was thinking this would be the answer. But first,,,,,

What I would like to see is a picture of someone's L2501 (or similar height model) with the stock Kubota TNT kit (#L8388A) and a box blade then zero in on the blade heights when the blade is on the level ground and the top link cylinder is fully extended and also fully retracted.

So if anyone with a L2501, L8388A TNT, and box blade is reading this see the above paragraph.

Thanks!

-Randy

 

[Vigo]

I'll check the working length. The TNT manual states top hole of the 3PH for the link.... Tractor manual states bottom for the top link when using the box grader.

With a regular top link that will help you empty the box because it will tilt it forward as it raises, which will 'dump' the box forward a little by raising the rear, making it easier to get the load out and also more likely to clear it without dragging the top back off the pile you just dropped.

I run my power top link in the bottom hole because i generally have more desire for forward tilt than rearward tilt. But i agree that it would suck to not be able to lean the box blade back enough to use the back blade like i wanted to for smoothing.

You can always modify the cylinder you have to make it a bit longer, or you could build a 'spacer' as shown above, or weld an extension onto the box blade itself as well. Multiple ways to deal with it that don't dictate totally replacing your cylinder. But they do all require cutting and welding.

 

[RandyBuxton]

With a regular top link that will help you empty the box because it will tilt it forward as it raises, which will 'dump' the box forward a little by raising the rear, making it easier to get the load out and also more likely to clear it without dragging the top back off the pile you just dropped.

I run my power top link in the bottom hole because i generally have more desire for forward tilt than rearward tilt. But i agree that it would suck to not be able to lean the box blade back enough to use the back blade like i wanted to for smoothing.

You can always modify the cylinder you have to make it a bit longer, or you could build a 'spacer' as shown above, or weld an extension onto the box blade itself as well. Multiple ways to deal with it that don't dictate totally replacing your cylinder. But they do all require cutting and welding.

Cutting and welding I can do and most likely will. Thanks.