So have an 7' garage door with an 80" clear opening....Looking at a LX2610HSDC with CAB that the brochure specs says with the R1's has an overall height of 84.6". Dealer that I'm talking to just said 82" overall with the R14's, but that doesn't sound right. Question is......what is the add/deducts or the actual overall heights with the R3/Turf tires and same goes for having the R14's if above is inaccurate? I can live with the R3/Turf or the R14's. I'm sure there has to be some sort of difference here and hopefully to help my cause..... I'm thinking worse case, drop some air to get them low enough to get through the door, but depends on how close I can get it beforehand depending on the tires. Will be looking at this in person in the next week or so & will let you know, but your input would be greatly appreciated!!
Tire Heights Adds/Reduction R1 vs R3/Turf vs R14
- Thread starter bnauty255
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You could look at the manufactures tire specs and compare the overall diameter and effective or loaded radius for each type. This will give you a good idea the difference between tire types. Simple search will uncover manufactures technical information.
If you get the same R14's that I got, no, gonna be a lot more than 84 with the cab. Probably closer to 90. I've got the SU, and since it doesn't have the mid PTO, can run bigger/fatter tires. These are a LOT taller than the R4's or R1's. Dunno bout the turfs. I think you need a bigger door.
Fatfenders
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LX2610 HSDC, LX2980 64" Commercial Snow Blower, FEL w/60" QA bucket, BB1260 Box
I have an LX2610HSDC with R14s and just had it in my attached garage last weekend with the standard 7' door opening. I had to manually open the door, push it up as far as I could and put a Vise-Grip C-Clamp on the track to hold it up. My door frame has the hard plastic seal with the flexible edge nailed around the perimeter. I cleared it by no more than 1/8" and that was with the flexible edge bent completely over. Just measured for you and my door opening is 83 3/8". Without the nailed on sealer strip, it would clear by nearly 1/2"
armylifer
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BX1860, FEL, RCK54P MMM, BB1548 Box Scraper, Quick Hitch, Piranha Bar, BX6315
One thing that you may want to look at very closely is how high the front edge or rear edge of the canopy is as you are pulling the tractor into the garage. If the garage slab is even a little higher than your driveway the front and/or rear edge of the canopy is likely to be momentarily higher as you are entering the garage, than it would be when the tractor is level.
Wow! All I can say is you are a better man than I am!
I would be extremely uncomfortable even if I had an inch of clearance...
OK, I guess I am a wimp...
I have no way of comparing mine to anything, because I bought the second LX2610 sold by my dealer. But, what I do know, is that the lift arms are high enough off the ground that I have to set my box blade up on 4x4 blocks so I can use a quick hitch. Otherwise, the quick hitch won't go low enough. I just got the quick hitch yesterday, and while it's better than a pocket on a shirt, it does introduce some different issues that aren't quite as much hassle as fighting with a 3 point hitch. All but one manufacturer (according to a video I watched) radius the bottom hooks on Category 1 quick hitches for Category 3 pins. That makes absolutely no sense, but the SpeeCo brand is the only one that does not. I don't have a SpeeCo because they're not stocked much in this area, and it costs nearly 4x what the HaulMaster brand does at HarborFreight. I also looked at the Land Pride version. Same exact problem as the HaulMaster, BUT, I liked the structure of the HaulMaster a little better. The gussets in the frame are much larger and on both sides. The LandPride brand only had gussets on the implement side of the hitch. The HaulMaster got a good review in a video that compared 6 different brands, other than the issue with the Cat 3 hooks on the bottom, which will have you buying bushings for each attachment. But those aren't really all that expensive if you shop around. I'll be ordering a few sets of those today. I never compared the 3 point receiver hitch I bought with anything else, but after gettng the quick hitch yesterday, I found it wasn't nearly wide enough for the QH. Looks like I'm getting some box beam and building one that is.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
This conversation has me really happy with my choice of a 9 foot, 6 inch garage doors on the new place!
RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Both BX2360's and -2370's were available for a while.
ROPS on a BX2370 is like 7'++, a -2360 is about 6'.
I took the 6-footer.....just for that reason.
That can only happen if you enter the garage back end first. And then only if the canopy extends rearward past the center of the rear wheels. The height of the canopy directly over the center of the rear wheels is as tall as the canopy can become while entering forward.
Any part of the tractor between the centers of the front and rear wheels can't get any taller than it is when measured from the floor. Anything beyond the wheel centers can be taller.
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armylifer
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BX1860, FEL, RCK54P MMM, BB1548 Box Scraper, Quick Hitch, Piranha Bar, BX6315
You are correct. I always back mine into the garage. I considered making the statement as you did but I decided against that in case there was something that I did not know such as air pressure in the tires or attachments on the tractor or even an antenna on the canopy. Given the very close tolerance the OP was stating I chose to make the statement broader so cover all bases.
HAHA - When I had the L3200, I ALWAYS entered front first because of this. I even had a piece of wood that was cut to length and notched to get enough height to enter forward.