I wish I put my water line, power line, and spare snake cable inside 4 inch Big-O between the house and well.
Tips for well line?
- Thread starter JeremyBX2200
- Start date
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
If you pull the pump, do NOT install one of those 'anti rotation rubbers'. Neighbor had to have NEW well drilled cause the 'water guy' couldn't pull the old pump out. I was going to but he'd 'decommisioned' the well (also pumped gunite into the basement....). $10K the pensioner shouldn't have had to spend...
@dirtydeed
Ya, I forgot to mention the sand trick. Cushions the pipe, AND, gives you a warning as you're digging down to it next time!
I also coated the buried metal (including hose clamps) with roofing cement before burying it.
One thing to be aware of. If your supply line is leaking, that can over-work your submersible pump, and you'll never know it until...whoops...no water, because the pump burned out. Ka-CHING!
The last time, as soon as I noticed the soggy ground around the well-casing, I pulled the fuses for the pump, and grabbed a shovel.
-Paul
Ya, I forgot to mention the sand trick. Cushions the pipe, AND, gives you a warning as you're digging down to it next time!
I also coated the buried metal (including hose clamps) with roofing cement before burying it.
One thing to be aware of. If your supply line is leaking, that can over-work your submersible pump, and you'll never know it until...whoops...no water, because the pump burned out. Ka-CHING!
The last time, as soon as I noticed the soggy ground around the well-casing, I pulled the fuses for the pump, and grabbed a shovel.
-Paul
Might look at this type of pressure switch, it can save your pump. It will shut off when the pressure gets too low and keep the pump from trying to overcome a leak.
https://www.amazon.com/Square-Schneider-Electric-9013FSG2J20M4-Differential/dp/B000IJSWGW/ref=asc_df_B000IJSWGW?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80264466527754&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583863993176717&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Square-Schneider-Electric-9013FSG2J20M4-Differential/dp/B000IJSWGW/ref=asc_df_B000IJSWGW?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80264466527754&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583863993176717&psc=1
Do your U-Tube homework, and if YOU pull your pump I would use the Torque arrester, who knows what had happened to the well or casing on the prementioned well, they are put in for a reason, also the low pressure auto shut-off switches are a great idea, I have seen a couple neighbors burn up expensive above ground motors when issues arose. I just dropped my first well pump to 340', used special waterproof wire splice, safety rope and proper tools/well pipe clamp. I have heard of the horror stories of dropping tools down and I understand now how they can charge so much, got very heavy, probably around 350 - 400lbs, it felt like.
After taking numerous trips to the basement, while in the middle of a shower, I went back to a conventional switch. A millisecond dip in pressure will trip the stupid switch, those dips may be just normal fluctuations caused by the pump startup time.
YES! Lay gravel or such on Top of the new line…. This is how someone in the future will know as they dig in the area they are approaching a buried line. Another idea (if it fits your situation)…when I buried a new elect. line… I had some old tin (R-panel actually) from an older roof I’d removed for replacement. I cut the R-panel/tin into 1-foot widths and laid it end to end all along/above the buried line…then covered it up…..so that future diggers will hit the tin and realize they’ve run into electrical service line.
Not sure how deep my well is. I talked to a number of different offices with the county, but they don't have well records. If I do have to pull the pump I am hoping it isnt too deep. The water table where I live is pretty high, so I wouldn't think they would have had to drill that deep.
You can pick up some "caution" tape at your local supply store. Put it in the ditch when you have about one foot left to top of grade. If you have to buy way more then you need put a layer one foot, or so, above the pipe also.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
In my neighbour's case, well is 42' deep and the arrestor (rubbery donut thing) got 'stuck', drilled well, 36 years old. well idiot couldn't get it out ( his idea was to attached comealong to poly pipe and crank it up..all it did was stretch the poly pipe.....).
took drillers less than 2 hrs to put in new well THEY were great....
also add a GOOD SS cable and ftgs to the new pump so it can be pulled out......
took drillers less than 2 hrs to put in new well THEY were great....
also add a GOOD SS cable and ftgs to the new pump so it can be pulled out......
I took a quick look at mine. It looks like I have a metal cable the runs down and connects to the pump.
Jeremy, take a good look at the fittings between the pitless adapter (goes through the well-casing), and the poly supply line. If they're looking deteriorated, I would not hesitate to replace them. All of them. And, then, good luck removing the nipple from the pitless adapter. It commonly twists off. In that case, you're pulling the submersible pump up far enough to access the inside part of the pitless adapter. Pitless adapters are not too expensive, and widely available (Lowe's, Home Depot).
In my case, my well is only 50-60 feet deep, so I could easily lift everything by hand, with a clamp ready to secure it once I got it high enough. In my case, just a pair of vice grips was enough to secure it.
To replace the part of the adapter that goes through the well casing, the first step is to pass a long piece of wire through the old pitless adapter. Bring both ends of the wire to the top of the casing and twist them together. Then you can remove the old adapter without fear of dropping it down the well. And, then, thread the new adapter part onto the wire loop. Now, you can slide the adapter part down the wire loop and into place without losing it down the well casing! That hole in the casing is typically out-of-reach on the inside of the casing from the surface.
It's kind of a trick to stab the inside part of the new adapter as you drop the whole pump package back down again. I used a 6-foot long piece of rebar to poke the adapter part home, secured by a rope at the top end in case I dropped the rebar. You can use the rebar as a punch with a hammer to coax the adapter part securely into place.
After all this, you'll be a pro, ready to hire out to your friends, and more typically, relatives...
Good Luck!
-Paul
In my case, my well is only 50-60 feet deep, so I could easily lift everything by hand, with a clamp ready to secure it once I got it high enough. In my case, just a pair of vice grips was enough to secure it.
To replace the part of the adapter that goes through the well casing, the first step is to pass a long piece of wire through the old pitless adapter. Bring both ends of the wire to the top of the casing and twist them together. Then you can remove the old adapter without fear of dropping it down the well. And, then, thread the new adapter part onto the wire loop. Now, you can slide the adapter part down the wire loop and into place without losing it down the well casing! That hole in the casing is typically out-of-reach on the inside of the casing from the surface.
It's kind of a trick to stab the inside part of the new adapter as you drop the whole pump package back down again. I used a 6-foot long piece of rebar to poke the adapter part home, secured by a rope at the top end in case I dropped the rebar. You can use the rebar as a punch with a hammer to coax the adapter part securely into place.
After all this, you'll be a pro, ready to hire out to your friends, and more typically, relatives...
Good Luck!
-Paul
Thanks for the step by step. I was was trying to work through the best method in my head of replacing it if I need to. Before I pull the old supply line and attach the new one I am going to clean up the adapter really well to inspect it.
No, but I wasn't really searching for one. The current setup has an outside well house that contains the pressure tank, pressure switch etc. It is a pain to work on anything in it and there is also the possible winter freezing issue to deal with.
What I did was build out a new setup in the utility room in the house and am running a new well supply line and electrical from the well to the pressure tank/pressure switch setup in the utility room in the house. This will bypass the wellhouse completely.......probably turn it in to a planter of something......lol.
I was already planning this project for a little later this year, but I noticed the drop in water pressure in the house, which was causing the well pump to never satisfy the pressure switch. It bumped up my time table.
I am hoping the well pump is okay, but with my luck I will be replacing it too.
GOD, I wish my wife was as patient as yours!
When the hairs need to be washed, I'm on 24-hour duty!
Ya, finding the leak is key.
But, from what we've seen in your images (e.g. The Mud) it is VERY likely to be right there at the fittings between the pitless adapter and the poly line.
One other tip. It can be nearly impossible to get the clearance to slide a buried poly line onto a barbed fitting, lengthwise. So, that ~6" piece of poly just upstream of the elbow is a keeper. Check the downstream elbow for integrity.
I use a torch to soften the poly line to make it easy to slip onto the barbed connectors, but the Real Plumbers tell me that I'm stressing the plastic by doing that, and making it more likely that it will crack.
I balance that risk against the ease of getting the job done and the downside of digging up the line again. For me, it's an hour of shovel work. Eh.
-Paul
PS, replacing the well pump is not a big deal, in the grand scheme of things. Another one of those off-the-shelf items at Lowe's or Home Depot. ~$250. Now, if you ask a plumber to come in and replace it, you're probably closer to $1500. Been there, done that. But, that's another story...
When the hairs need to be washed, I'm on 24-hour duty!
Ya, finding the leak is key.
But, from what we've seen in your images (e.g. The Mud) it is VERY likely to be right there at the fittings between the pitless adapter and the poly line.
One other tip. It can be nearly impossible to get the clearance to slide a buried poly line onto a barbed fitting, lengthwise. So, that ~6" piece of poly just upstream of the elbow is a keeper. Check the downstream elbow for integrity.
I use a torch to soften the poly line to make it easy to slip onto the barbed connectors, but the Real Plumbers tell me that I'm stressing the plastic by doing that, and making it more likely that it will crack.
I balance that risk against the ease of getting the job done and the downside of digging up the line again. For me, it's an hour of shovel work. Eh.
-Paul
PS, replacing the well pump is not a big deal, in the grand scheme of things. Another one of those off-the-shelf items at Lowe's or Home Depot. ~$250. Now, if you ask a plumber to come in and replace it, you're probably closer to $1500. Been there, done that. But, that's another story...
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Lucky for me we still have water, and if we are just running one faucet pressure is usable.....but the wife is pretty patient with this stuff as long as I dont just ignore her/it.GOD, I wish my wife was as patient as yours!
When the hairs need to be washed, I'm on 24-hour duty!
Ya, finding the leak is key.
But, from what we've seen in your images (e.g. The Mud) it is VERY likely to be right there at the fittings between the pitless adapter and the poly line.
One other tip. It can be nearly impossible to get the clearance to slide a buried poly line onto a barbed fitting, lengthwise. So, that ~6" piece of poly just upstream of the elbow is a keeper. Check the downstream elbow for integrity.
I use a torch to soften the poly line to make it easy to slip onto the barbed connectors, but the Real Plumbers tell me that I'm stressing the plastic by doing that, and making it more likely that it will crack.
I balance that risk against the ease of getting the job done and the downside of digging up the line again. For me, it's an hour of shovel work. Eh.
-Paul
Im not keeping/re-using ANY of the poly pipe. The pipe and the electrical will all be 100% new from the well to the pressure tank inside the house.
I will probably dig our a little more around the pitiless adapter to make sure it isn't leaking at all.
As far as the mud goes.......it has been raining a bunch, water table is naturally high where I am at and my dirt has a bunch of clay, so it holds water like crazy. Just from the 4' trench sitting over night there is a couple of inches of ground water in them.
The mud is a major clue as to the source of the problem.
.
Just sayin...
To me, the poly line is an example of, 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it'.
But, you have a lot invested already in The Fix.
My approach is always to address the immediate problem (the leak) and then to consider the utility (or lack thereof) of putting off a broader approach. To each, his own...
And, you have the backhoe, I don't.
Good Luck!
-Paul
PS, reminds me: Have you ever read "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance." by Robert Pirsig? Should be required reading for ALL high school students!
.
Just sayin...
To me, the poly line is an example of, 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it'.
But, you have a lot invested already in The Fix.
My approach is always to address the immediate problem (the leak) and then to consider the utility (or lack thereof) of putting off a broader approach. To each, his own...
And, you have the backhoe, I don't.
Good Luck!
-Paul
PS, reminds me: Have you ever read "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance." by Robert Pirsig? Should be required reading for ALL high school students!