Tips for removing Hyd filter.

[retired farmer]

Wow, I have owned 8 tractors and numbers of automobiles that I have always serviced and am pretty experianced in removing oil filters. Got all my filters changed on the L3301 except the hyd. filter, it refuses to budge. I have broken 2 filter wrenches trying to loosen the filter with no results, even with a cheater pipe. and pipe wrench.

Anybody got any suggestion other that hauling it to the dealer?

 

[85Hokie]

Have you tried the "cup" style with ratchet drive? I use those often - BUT most of the time I have to place a thin piece of sand paper inside the cup to get that last little bit of grip and I have to use a cheater bar.

If you don't have that .....

the straight blade screwdriver is next in line! Then again I have seen a chisel used to tape the outside metal flange to get it started too. Not to high on the chisel method - the screwdriver though usually gets the job done as the last resort.

 

[D2Cat]

Get something like that at your nearby auto supply store. It fit most all diameters and in a small space.

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[jarhead]

Wow, I have owned 8 tractors and numbers of automobiles that I have always serviced and am pretty experianced in removing oil filters. Got all my filters changed on the L3301 except the hyd. filter, it refuses to budge. I have broken 2 filter wrenches trying to loosen the filter with no results, even with a cheater pipe. and pipe wrench.

Anybody got any suggestion other that hauling it to the dealer?

use a strap wrench

 

[Justasquid]

Like D2Cat suggested. That is the only thing I could remove my filter with. Just don't use it to put it back on. it will crush the filter talking it off.

 

[Creature Meadow]

I had to use a 30" pipe wrench on mine the first time!

DT2 suggestion is what I use now for most all my filters.

Sand paper good idea, I've been lucky enough just to put a piece of shop rag in it to get a bite.

Could a pipe wrench while applying force and some taps on the filter near where it connects break it loose, maybe?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The old hillbilly way of doing it was to drive a big screwdriver through the filter and spin it off with that.
The D2Cat noted chain strap wrench, is a much better and cleaner alternative!

 

[BAP]

These work better than a chain wrench for getting in tight places and you can use a 1/2” ratchet or breaker bar on it.

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[SidecarFlip]

Guess I'm a hillbilly. Always used the large screwdriver (or tapered alignment bar) and a hammer and pierced the filter and cranked it off. I have a nice webbing equipped 1/2" drive filter wrench I usually use but if they are real tight it always crushes it anyway.

Never come up against a filter that won't come off yet. They get ugly but that always come off.

On the buggies, because the oil filters mount vertically, I always poke a hole in the bottom and let them drain. less messy that way.

 

[SidecarFlip]

One trick (if you wan to call it that, that my Kubota mechanic showed me to remove the secondary fuel filter bowl nut (the one that has the element and water ring on the rear side of the engine on the bigger tractors is, use a pair of oil filter pliers to remove it. It's in a pretty inaccessible place on my M's with the loaders installed. No way can you get your hand on it to remove the top cap and release the bowl. Oil filter pliers make that an easy job.

 

[William1]

If the filter has never been off, the factor original was on when they painted. So the paint 'seal' adds to the probably dry rubber gasket. A slice with a razor blade around the filter mating area to cut the paint may be the help you need. I use a rubber strap wrench, it tends to not destroy the tough to remove filters.
Good luck!

 

[KUBOTA902]

Large chisel and a hammer, if that don't work hit it with the air hammer.

 

[GeoHorn]

Put some silicone-grease* on the new filter before you install it and it’ll come off easier next time.
Using oil is a bad idea (despite the advice some filters suggest that) because the oil will “coke” and actually stick the filter onto the engine/transmission. (The reason oil or grease is applied to the gasket is to prevent the gasket being damaged or twisted during installation.... oil will accomplish that...BUT as we all know, it also glues the filter to the engine or transmission.)

* Silicone grease such as Dow-Corning DC4 is what we use in aviation applications. It can be bought at NAPA, etc. and Amazon. Also useful to prevent corrosion on electrical items and light bulb bases, etc. https://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-...1371144&sprefix=Dow+corning+dc,aps,231&sr=8-1

 

[mikester]

Have you tried the "cup" style with ratchet drive? I use those often - BUT most of the time I have to place a thin piece of sand paper inside the cup to get that last little bit of grip and I have to use a cheater bar.


View attachment 53765

If you don't have that .....

the straight blade screwdriver is next in line! Then again I have seen a chisel used to tape the outside metal flange to get it started too. Not to high on the chisel method - the screwdriver though usually gets the job done as the last resort.

My experience is avoid the plastic wrenches as they tend to slip. Personally I would not recommend using the screw driver trick because once you cut through the stuck filter housing on a really stuck filter it shreds and you have no way of removing a badly stuck filter if its in a hard to reach location. If you are lucky the chain strap will clamp on and give you enough purchase and leverage.

On some machines the filters are in really bad locations and you can put two fingers anywhere near the filter. This is an example where the design engineers should be forced to work on vehicles for two years before being allowed to design real world machines.

 

[retired farmer]

Thanks for the tips, still not loosened filter yet. I don't have confidence in the screw driver as it will shred the filter as tight as it is. I do not have the chain wrench as yet but sounds like it may do it. Don't want to damage the old filter and not get it off.

I will report back with results.

thanks all....

 

[GeoHorn]

Another thing to consider is filter tightening torque. Some people believe that since the hydraulic system runs at high pressure the filter must be installed super-tight. NOT SO!
REad the WSM.... and you’ll likely find that the hyd filters should only be tightened until the gasket contacts the surface and then ONE-HALF-TURN ONLY!

That equates to something on the order of INCH-POUNDS... not the ”tight-as-Hell” so many seem to think necessary.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I don't have confidence in the screw driver as it will shred the filter as tight as it is

Not germane at all. Nothing is flowing in the filter, it's DEAD. I don't care what it looks like, it's off and replaced When I run a screwdriver or tapered alignment bar through it, I always 'aim' for the center so the tool goes through the meat of the filter and allows more leverage. If you crush the cannister with any removal method, you've also crushed the internal media anyway. Don't care bout fluid coming out either. I always remove my filters with the drain pan underneath and my drain pan has a 20 gallon capacity.

Whatever you employ, just make sure the rubber gasket hasn't stayed on the filter boss when you put a new filter on. They have a habit of staying behind, stuck to the filter flange on the tractor, cars do the same thing, btw.

 

[retired farmer]

Ok, filter removed and new one on. Tried all the wrench types, cup, band, ratchet, even borrowed a chain wrench and all it did was crush the filter. So found one of my older band type with a 1/2 drive breaker bar, cheater pipe and brother inlaw with BIG muscles and he cracked it loose.

As a side note, there was no screen to wipe off but instead a magnetic ring to catch metal, which there was little to none. All is well in Kubotaville now, thanks for all on the forum.

rf

 

[85Hokie]

Ok, filter removed and new one on. Tried all the wrench types, cup, band, ratchet, even borrowed a chain wrench and all it did was crush the filter. So found one of my older band type with a 1/2 drive breaker bar, cheater pipe and brother inlaw with BIG muscles and he cracked it loose.

As a side note, there was no screen to wipe off but instead a magnetic ring to catch metal, which there was little to none. All is well in Kubotaville now, thanks for all on the forum.

rf

Glad to hear it - in some of those places, it is simply a nightmare to get any tool in place to apply that much torque to get the filter off.

 

[fja]

D2Cat's input is what I use -- one word of note: don't be surprised to find loads of silicon (from the factory) in these filters --- seen it many times with new stuff from Kubota.