New l4701 for me with grapple. Love the tractor and grapple the problem is I have almost rolled it over several times. I can definitely be a little aggressive with the grapple it’s in my nature and knowing myself I think I may need a heavier tractor. I could put the bud blade on it or even a disk to give it more weight but I am not sure that is the answer. Would heavier tires or widening the tires work?
Tipping over
- Thread starter Jday
- Start date
def put ballast on the back end, keep it low, consider buying some wheel spacers
Good day. When you say tip…is that sideways or lifting the rear end up? Those are two different situations. Are your tires filled and / or have wheel weights and / or do you have additional ballast on the back?
Tipping over sideways vs front to back. Wider tire stance plus weight helps sideways. But just moving tires out won’t help with front to back.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
re: I can definitely be a little aggressive with the grapple it’s in my nature and knowing myself I think I may need a heavier tractor
No, a heavier tractor won't help.,changing your 'nature' will ! All a heavier tractor does is allow you to lift even heavier loads 'aggressively' and can cause MORE problems. Really, you need to learn to use NOT abuse the tractor. Operating tractors should never be considered a 'race'.
With almost every loader attachment(bucket,grapple, forks,etc.) a certain amount of rear 'ballast' is needed. How much depends on tractor, attachment,payload,terrain,tires,operator,etc. Generally speaking start with 1/2 of whatever the loader lifts as rear ballast, then 'dial in' what is needed for safe operations. Too little means unsafe, too much, wastes fuel and extra stress on tractor
Ballast can consist of
1) filled tires, usually salt water, beet juice or WW fluid. All have 'pros and cons'
2) wheel weights, usually cast iron, steel or concrete.
3) 3PH implement, usually rear blade, box blade, carryall with skid of balast
I prefer #3, carrayall/skid combo. #1 and 2 are 'permanent' weights that probably aren't needed 24/7. They add stress to tractor, waste fuel, damage terrain.
Using the carryall/skid allows you to have 2 or more skids of ballast. Grab the light one for say mulch moving operations, the heavy one for when bucket loads of stone get moved. Being able to 'dial in' the ballast allows for the best performance based on what you ARE doing.
No, a heavier tractor won't help.,changing your 'nature' will ! All a heavier tractor does is allow you to lift even heavier loads 'aggressively' and can cause MORE problems. Really, you need to learn to use NOT abuse the tractor. Operating tractors should never be considered a 'race'.
With almost every loader attachment(bucket,grapple, forks,etc.) a certain amount of rear 'ballast' is needed. How much depends on tractor, attachment,payload,terrain,tires,operator,etc. Generally speaking start with 1/2 of whatever the loader lifts as rear ballast, then 'dial in' what is needed for safe operations. Too little means unsafe, too much, wastes fuel and extra stress on tractor
Ballast can consist of
1) filled tires, usually salt water, beet juice or WW fluid. All have 'pros and cons'
2) wheel weights, usually cast iron, steel or concrete.
3) 3PH implement, usually rear blade, box blade, carryall with skid of balast
I prefer #3, carrayall/skid combo. #1 and 2 are 'permanent' weights that probably aren't needed 24/7. They add stress to tractor, waste fuel, damage terrain.
Using the carryall/skid allows you to have 2 or more skids of ballast. Grab the light one for say mulch moving operations, the heavy one for when bucket loads of stone get moved. Being able to 'dial in' the ballast allows for the best performance based on what you ARE doing.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Just finished moving 130 tons of roadbase with the 525 FEL on my little L2501. I had the LP2672 rear blade hanging on back and it made a Huge difference on the stability. The front loader with 6 ft bucket was maxed out when full, and I needed FWD to back out and maneuver as the rear wheels were light, but it was manageable on level ground if I kept it "low and slow".
I believe the rear blade is only about 365 lbs, but hangs out about 6 ft behind the rear axle and keeps it working. I would not have attempted a full bucket without the blade on back and on level ground.
365 lb blade at 12 ft lever arm from the front axle gives 4X what loaded tires at 6 ft from front axle.
I believe the rear blade is only about 365 lbs, but hangs out about 6 ft behind the rear axle and keeps it working. I would not have attempted a full bucket without the blade on back and on level ground.
365 lb blade at 12 ft lever arm from the front axle gives 4X what loaded tires at 6 ft from front axle.
Keep your seatbelt on and ROPs up. Farming/tractoring is considered one of the most dangerous professions. Your stated aggressive nature could put you in a wheelchair for the rest of your life. Heavy equipment injuries are not an infrequent occurrence. Be careful and take your time.
As others have said, using a tractor can be dangerous and working too fast or aggressively is going to get you hurt.
Working on hilly or mountainous land adds to the hazards. Try to avoid working sideways across a hillside. It doesn't take much of a sideways grade to become unstable.
When using the grapple it is easy to lift things when they are not balanced in the jaws. Try to grab the center of the weight rather than letting things hang out too far on one side.
Take your time.
Working on hilly or mountainous land adds to the hazards. Try to avoid working sideways across a hillside. It doesn't take much of a sideways grade to become unstable.
When using the grapple it is easy to lift things when they are not balanced in the jaws. Try to grab the center of the weight rather than letting things hang out too far on one side.
Take your time.
Do you know how wide your rear wheels are set? Both R1 and R4 rims should have adjustible width on the 4701, so that's something else that can help with stability
Edit: see this thread for more details
Edit: see this thread for more details
Last edited:
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Get yourself a set of 3pt. hitch forks (Agri Supply sells 'em - relatively cheap).
Carry a pallet on the 3pt.forks, adding as much weight as you think you might need.
You will find that the 3pt. forks have many other pallet carrying uses as well.
I was just comparing Kubota tractor specs this morning. The L 4701 is what I would consider a heavy tractor.
Ballast and slow as you go should cure your problem.
Ballast and slow as you go should cure your problem.
If you can't get control of your necessity to slow down, especially using a tractor that you have admitted nearly rolling, you will eventually find yourself injured. All the previous post give good advise on handling your predicament, you just have to commit to use safe practices.
When you begin to stretch the limits of safety and act foolish have a mental picture of setting in a wheelchair watching out the window. Maybe that image will help control your stupidity. (I say stupidity because you know it's wrong and you still do it)
Load your rears the best. Additional ballast on 3 pt will not hurt either. Rimguard (beet juice) will provide you the most weight per gallon and NOT rust out your rims like Cal. WWF the next. Proper use should prevent any tipping. Lookup videos on what NOT to do. Keep FEL loads low. You will only roll it over once. Should you survive, you will learn. Expensive to repair if cab tractor or keep ROP's locked in up position with seat belt on. Can add rear wheel spacers but not sure how much will help but won't hurt. Best advice, be smart.
I noticed that the little B is tippy with the grapple on and on uneven ground. I have a 6 ft backblade loaded tires and chains. I did have one rear wheel in a bit of a hole. So I was wondering if the Back hoe will help the situation or hurt it. will the BH make it more tippy.? I may have to fill some of the dips in order not to be too tippy in the bush. the ground here is very rocky with may fern humps. and is really quite uneven. The reason I am asking is I have a lot of grapple work to do and I think we are pretty much done with the snow so I was going to put the backhoe on this week but if that will make it more tippy I will leave the back blade on and put the back hoe on later. Are there any hacks/tips when using the grapple on rocky uneven ground. I do not like the feeling of only have 3 wheels on the ground. I know to keep the grapple as low to the ground as possible . I am on the fence on wheel spacers as I have a long driveway with deep ditches on both sides and I can use the front wheel placement to know where my back wheels are.
I have a backhoe on my LX2610. I also have beet juice in the tires. I use a grapple and work it pretty hard. I have never needed more ballast on the back. I keep telling myself that if I ever need more ballast I could extend the backhoe bucket to increase the leverage, but that has never been necessary.
Ballast on the back will make little or no difference with sideways stability.
Ballast on the back will make little or no difference with sideways stability.
Sounds like from your description that you should have the load more centered when you are using the grapple. Low ballast in the rear will help as well. If your wheels are adjustable and not at the furthest position, do that to add stability as well.