Time for greasing everything

[ACDII]

If you have an air compressor, a pneumatic grease gun is also a cheaper option.

I do, and a 5 HP 80 gallon compressor. Beginning to wonder if it will be cheaper to get a battery powered one every time I turn the compressor on to grease the tractor and the lights dim.

 

[GeoHorn]

Ya' know George, a couple months ago I pushed back at your posts' tone where you come across as didactic.

Need grease gun - new L2501 owner | OrangeTractorTalks - Everything Kubota

I was personally targeted first as an ignoramus, later edited. “To all Idiots”… I guess you would have immediately thought I was talking to YOU , heh RCW

I was fine with that and said so.

Your opinion. Your choice. I'm fine with that. I've got big shoulders and thick skin.


Then we get this one last few days....



You've gone to and Ha Ha's.

But....hmmm, whose the (not the ones in THIS thread, of course) pointed toward?

I'll add a .

Again, no issue with you, but the tone makes my hair stand up...



Then we get to this one.....

Inter alia....."You guys are lazy, spoiled, and must be rich."

I take personal offense to this.

How can you use such a broad brush to make that statement?!?!?!

I don't give a rat's ass about the

I was born to poor dairy farmers that didn't graduate high school
My farm life and parents were the most important in forming my work ethic
Financially independent at 16 working as restaurant dishwasher, then cook
At 16, worked to support my vehicle, insurance, clothing. Wasn't home to eat
First in my extended family to go to college
I paid for college myself - last years were cash. Commuted to school.
Worked full-time a through college - 50 hours/week
While in college, worked my way up to running a few food service businesses
Got a BS in Forestry and BS in Forest Biology - SU and SUNY ESF
Considered owning a couple businesses, but didn't want to work 24/7 anymore
Started "real job" 34 years ago
Stayed in same business
Got married
Worked as a woodcutter selling firewood early in our marriage
Worked cutting spruce pulpwood early in our marriage
Since I was a cook, we VERY seldom ate out
Had 3 kids
Been elevated/promoted through all 34 years
Still work 40+ hours a week, and get less than a week off a year
For our area, I make good money. Couldn't pay rent in other places.
Rich...no.
Since I was a cook, we seldom eat out...That's a repeat, but hasn't changed.
I'm getting tired
I'm considering retirement

I have 3 manual grease guns with grease in them.

I have an electric can opener.

I have an electric grease gun....

From all the hand-work over the years, I have periodic carpal tunnel from my restaurant days 34 years ago...Won't get better, and those employers are all long-gone...

To call me or anyone you don't know "lazy, spoiled, and must be rich" is unreasonable and uncalled for.

Might work for others, but I won't allow it....

Not bitching at you George, just the tone you use......just don't EVER call me or anyone you don't know lazy.....

Here, I'll give you a few of these......makes it funny, right?

Well… it WOULD make it funny….. if anything you had written had any humor to it. But clearly your comments are criticisms of the way you’ve interpreted my post(s). (and you’ve misinterpreted them… You don’t know me, you only think you do.)

I’m almost always surprised to receive hate-mail…. because it almost always results from something said or done inadvertently ….or was totally mis-interpreted.

At the risk of appearing didactic… the reason I use emoticons (and I believe most others do for the same reasons) is to add “tone” to the comment. For example, instead of entering “just joking” I may use or.

Apparently you totally missed the sarcasm and self-criticism I offered in the post you’ve interpreted as offensive…. (I playfully criticized those as “lazy/rich” for owning automatic tools… then self-deprecatingly revealed I’m an owner of MULTIPLE automatic screwdrivers, drills, etc etc.).

But I believe at some point in the past you’ve settled into a ‘anti-George‘ mentality which prevents you from realizing I’m a fellow tractor owner/enthusiast and friend and not an antagonist so you didn’t catch that did you…?

“Tone”…. on the internet… is a personal interpretation you’ve assigned to the posts you read. That interpretation is not valid in the case to which you’ve just referred.

Emoticons are not for the purpose of excusing bad-behavior…..(at least not to me)…. they are ways of helping to interpret intent …(or “ tone” as you say.)

Since I had no way to know your personal economic station or history… it is unreasonable to assign a critical tone to my tongue-in-cheek insinuation of “rich”…. and even if you don’t see THAT as genuine…. since I would have no idea RCW owned an automatic grease-gun… I would not be directing my (joking) accusation that you are privileged/lazy/rich. Would I…. ?

It is YOUR (mis)interpretation that is causing your angst on the internet.
At least it is with regard to my comments.

I mean no harm.

Want to re-set our relationship? I certainly do.

 

[GeoHorn]

I do, and a 5 HP 80 gallon compressor. Beginning to wonder if it will be cheaper to get a battery powered one every time I turn the compressor on to grease the tractor and the lights dim.

I too have a (Campbell-Hausfeld) 60 gal “6 HP” shop compressor. Then one day a knowledgeable elderly on-line friend asked me how much amperage it pulls. (Your comment about it dimming the lights brought this to mind.)

I told him and he pointed out that it takes MUCH more amperage to produce a true 6 horsepower than posted on the motor dataplate I own. I confirmed that info and contacted C-H to complain about the sticker and advertised claim of 6 HP…. and C-H representative asked me which model I owned. I gave him the ”VIN” on the dataplate and he stated ”That unit was produced before the “new rating systems” required by Federal Law were implemented.“. …. as if that somehow made it a legitimate claim in the timeframe I bought the unit.

It actually works out to be a 3 HP unit and they are liars, plain and simple, IMO.

One more case of false advertising claims by the mfr’r.

 

[pokey1416]

Here's the low down on Moly based grease. Anything over 5% Moly, do not use on roller/ball bearings. The Valvoline grease uses lithium base with 3% Moly. Moly is the slickest lubricant on the planet, and because of it, does not stay in place. Been using the Valvoline Moly for decades without a single failure.

You know what DID fail? The bearing hubs on my King Kutter because stupid me used a power grease gun and blew the seals out so water could get in when not in use. No grease in the world would have prevented that. Greased it every time I used it, not knowing it was blowing out the bottom where it is shielded. I use a hand pump now for those, pressure for the pins and bushings.

Moly is preferred for bushings and pins because of it's high impact resistance, perfect for loaders and backhoes. As long as the base containing it can keep it in suspension and in place it does an excellent job of lubrication.

‘Yep, ditto’

 

[ACDII]

I too have a (Campbell-Hausfeld) 60 gal “6 HP” shop compressor. Then one day a knowledgeable elderly on-line friend asked me how much amperage it pulls. (Your comment about it dimming the lights brought this to mind.)

I told him and he pointed out that it takes MUCH more amperage to produce a true 6 horsepower than posted on the motor dataplate I own. I confirmed that info and contacted C-H to complain about the sticker and advertised claim of 6 HP…. and C-H representative asked me which model I owned. I gave him the ”VIN” on the dataplate and he stated ”That unit was produced before the “new rating systems” required by Federal Law were implemented.“. …. as if that somehow made it a legitimate claim in the timeframe I bought the unit.

It actually works out to be a 3 HP unit and they are liars, plain and simple, IMO.

One more case of false advertising claims by the mfr’r.

Totally agree! The HP ratings are claimed at BURN OUT! Basically when put to the motors limit and the windings fry is when it produces the rated power. Actual running HP is far lower than stated. I have a few woodworking tools like this with claimed high HP numbers that don't put out anywhere near those numbers when put to hard work. I run mine at 220v and it still dims the lights when first starting and is on it's second starting capacitor, first one blew out. I don't know what it's true HP is, but I do know if I forget to turn it off and find out a week later I expect a rather large electric bill in the mail.

Sorry for the thread derail. Grease em if you got em.

 

[GeoHorn]

Admire a product? I simply stated it existed and my experience with it.


Misquote?


So you weren't referring Valvoline's merchandising/advertisement statements as unreliable? Product uses misrepresented?





***warning.. sarcasm ahead***


Maybe I misspoke here.... because the engineering department should then contact the "fake marketing department" ..... planet, wheel bearings, and u-joints saved!!!

In your previous post, Paul, in reference to the Ashland product “Valvoline” you stated “I’d still be using it if …..etc etc etc.

This implied you liked the product and would continue to use it if it weren’t for the fact that it isn’t “tacky” enough and that Valvoline (Ashland) had made false claims about it’s suitability for roller bearings.

My comment was only that (in such case as that which you posted) …that was a misrepresentation of their product. I dislike mfr’s who do that and call them out on it when I see it. (without creating an even lengthier post,…. I nearly suffered a takeoff accident while piloting the vice-presidental airplane over false claims of a grease mfr’r…. That could have been a career-ending result…maybe even worse.)

Anyway, It appeared to me that you were giving a sly endorsement to Valvoline only wishing it were more “tacky”…. and totally ignoring a false-claim in their suggestion their moly product is suitable for roller bearings.

Sorry if I wasn’t clear or appeared antagonistic.

PS/Edit>. Traditionally Moly greases are not suitable for bearings such as high-temp/wheel bearings because the molybdenum is so slippery it can allow rollers to slide instead of roll….which damages both the roller and the race/cone and higher-percentage moly greases and pastes builds-up like graphite and can prevent proper functioning, allow the oil to separate causing lube-starvation. It is typically recommended for bushings, splines, and sliding/pivoting ”plain” bearings (not rollers). Sometimes instructions are misunderstood when read… for example, a mfr’s claim that their moly is good for ”high bearing-loads”….and in that context they are meaning high-pressure weight-bearing…. Not roller “bearings”.
Technological advances certainly occur and it may be possible in the future (or even perhaps in the present) that technology advances can overcome the traditional limitations of moly greases. This has occurred recently in lubricating-oils…which previously was unable to keep the moly in suspension, allowing it to settle-out creating an un-pumpable sludge to form in the sump and blocking oil passages. In very recent times some mfr’s claim to have overcome this limitation, so perhaps it might also apply to some greases… who knows…
In any case, it’s the equipment mfr’r…not the lube mfr’r whose specs should be met and followed by owners, IMO. Surely no one needs be informed that sometimes advertisements are false. (Saw Palmetto will NOT cure prostate problems or prevent you dying of prostate-cancer.).

 

[jyoutz]

I have a new Lincoln pneumatic grease gun and a new DeWalt 18V grease gun.
Anyone want to stop by? ......I'll give you the Lincoln.
PITA POS compared to a battery powered gun!

Wow, my cheapo Harbor Freight pneumatic grease gun works great.

 

[fried1765]

Wow, my cheapo Harbor Freight pneumatic grease gun works great.

I had a "cheapo Harbor Freight pneumatic grease gun".
I returned it after day one!

 

[dlsmith]

I don't know what it's true HP is, but I do know if I forget to turn it off and find out a week later I expect a rather large electric bill in the mail.

Sorry for the thread derail. Grease em if you got em.

Your air system must be pretty leaky if it makes the compressor run that much.
My system is pretty tight even at 150 PSI where I keep it, but I still have a ball valve on the tank at the outlet, and I usually keep it closed unless I forget.

 

[ACDII]

There is one pipe I can't get tight enough. It is the one the switch is on because when tight it is at an angle that the switch won't fit, so thats where it leaks. It takes a few days to leak down enough, but if I forget and don't hear it running, it could be a week or two before I realize it was left on. Now that I work from home I can hear it in my workshop/office, and discovered 3 times when it was left on, so was able to prevent it from running long periods.

 

[PaulR]

I do, and a 5 HP 80 gallon compressor. Beginning to wonder if it will be cheaper to get a battery powered one every time I turn the compressor on to grease the tractor and the lights dim.

I've got a Quincy 60 gallon and a rapidair line kit throughout the garage. The kit leaks and I've done a few replacements here and there but gave up. I cut my inline regulator I put in to zero when not in use, that keeps the tank ready but no air and leaks in the lines............Yea not great for water build up in the tank, I drain that every so often.....honestly....

 

[jyoutz]

There is one pipe I can't get tight enough. It is the one the switch is on because when tight it is at an angle that the switch won't fit, so thats where it leaks. It takes a few days to leak down enough, but if I forget and don't hear it running, it could be a week or two before I realize it was left on. Now that I work from home I can hear it in my workshop/office, and discovered 3 times when it was left on, so was able to prevent it from running long periods.

I just unplug my compressor when I’m done using. Problem solved.