Can anyone with experience tell me if the reverse direction tillers actually do a better job the the standard direction? I am looking at a King Kutter vs. a Landpride RTR1550. The landpride costs about a grand more, but if it does that much better of a job, maybe it`s worth it?
Tiller- Reverse or forward?
- Thread starter bowtech40
- Start date
No experience with tractor driven tillers but from hand held tillers I'd want a tiller that turns in the reverse (same direction as the wheels when backing up) for tilling in the forward direction. That would cause the tiller to dig an amount determined by the travel speed as long as it's in float and generate pulling forces in the 3pt. Pulling forces in addition to being what the 3pt was really designed for also increase weight on the rear wheels and thus traction. The only disadvantage I suppose is it puts a lot of load on the tractor as it had to resist the rearward pull of the tiller.
A forward rotating tiller would actually lighten the rear wheels in use but actually push the tractor along some. Without the 3pt locked I think it would rise right out of the dirt rather easily. Those are just how I see it but probably not how it is. I'm sure there are good arguments for both, try goggling forward vs reverse tiller and see what comes up.
A forward rotating tiller would actually lighten the rear wheels in use but actually push the tractor along some. Without the 3pt locked I think it would rise right out of the dirt rather easily. Those are just how I see it but probably not how it is. I'm sure there are good arguments for both, try goggling forward vs reverse tiller and see what comes up.
I looked at both and I liked the reverse tiller but bought a King Kutter forward gear drive. Both have advantages and disadvantages. A forward turning tiller might need an additional pass to work ground to the consistency you want but the reverse takes more HP. A big rock or tree root will bind up in a reverse till but a forward tiller will "climb" over it or kick it out the back.
If price was the same, I would have bought a land pride reverse tiller, but I am very happy with my KK. Plenty of weight to the ground and built well, heavy duty with a slip clutch. A slip clutch is a must with any PTO driven tiller.
I bought the "60 King Kutter on sale for 1429.+tax on sale locally. Over 1k less than the LP.
I broke some new ground, heavy sod and rock hard in 3 passes. First pass to strip the sod, second to 5" and third pass to full depth and done to nice condition for my squash patch.
If price was the same, I would have bought a land pride reverse tiller, but I am very happy with my KK. Plenty of weight to the ground and built well, heavy duty with a slip clutch. A slip clutch is a must with any PTO driven tiller.
I bought the "60 King Kutter on sale for 1429.+tax on sale locally. Over 1k less than the LP.
I broke some new ground, heavy sod and rock hard in 3 passes. First pass to strip the sod, second to 5" and third pass to full depth and done to nice condition for my squash patch.
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gpreuss
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Equipment
L3200DT w/FEL, K650 Backhoe, 5' Rotary, 40" Howard Rotavator, 6' Rhino blade
I used a Howard Rotovator on my L185DT for years. It is forward turning, and had a set of interchangeable gears to set its speed fast or slow. I always used it's fast, and usually made a pass in PTO-low, then PTO-high. It would turn a field into flour. The weight of the unit kept it well in the dirt - you had to use the gage wheel and slide to keep it up some.
The old 185 had a manual transmission. I used low for things like this - max 1 mph. If you have HST, go slow. You'll do a great job!
Use the $1000 you just saved to buy another fine toy! There are SO many of them...
The old 185 had a manual transmission. I used low for things like this - max 1 mph. If you have HST, go slow. You'll do a great job!
Use the $1000 you just saved to buy another fine toy! There are SO many of them...
Traction isn't usually an issue with tilling. Besides, the tiller rides on runners, so the load imposed on the back of the tractor is negligable or non existent, so it doesn't have an effect. The only way that it does is if you don't souse the tiller all the way down, which means that the tractor is carrying the tiller. I have a forward rotation King Kutter, and it works wonderfully. It is so heavy, that it doesn't walk up and over things. It will jam if a large rock or root gets in there. I would imagine that a reverse rotation will, too, but maybe worse- instead of kicking the object out the back, it wants to kick it forward and up.
I have no experience with a tractor driven reverse rotation tiller. I would surmise two things, though. One, a reverse rotation would take a little more power to run; and two, I have not heard enough raves about how much better it tills to make it worth a $1000 more. My KK works great, and in many cases, I only have to till the garden once. In the cases where I have gone over it a second time, I would be surprised if a reverse rotation would have done it complete in one pass.
For what it's worth, I would rather have my tiller kicking the dirt, dust, rocks, and other debris out the back, instead of back at the base of the tractor.
Holy hannah!!! I just looked up the Howard Rotavator, and it is one expensive toy!!! The KK sounds appealing.
I talked to a long time Howard Rotovator dealer and he said Howard sold out and went overseas a few years ago and thier machines are not what they used to be, and some problems getting parts. He is selling what he has in stock but moving away from Howard. He said thier older stuff is great.
gpreuss
New member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3200DT w/FEL, K650 Backhoe, 5' Rotary, 40" Howard Rotavator, 6' Rhino blade
I bought the Rotovator about 30 years ago - for a song - and it was old and worn then. I had to put a new set of blades on it - and many more since - but that is about all. I have about maybe a foot of soil, then hit granite. It is tough on blades, and machinery. I cannot say enough good about the rotovator; I have hit rocks that made it lurch a foot or more up. It just does not seem to get hurt by it. I also can't say anything bad about the others. If you have a choice between normal and heavy duty, go for the heavy. In the long run it pays.
I agree with that. Tillers are expensive, whether you buy heavy or light. Tilling is hard on equipment, so buy the best, to get the most value. And, make sure that it has a slipper clutch. That is the single best protection for your driveline.